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Transcript:

Caroline: We are recording today on the traditional, ancestral, and unceded territories of the Coast Salish and Kwakwaka’wakw peoples, including Tsleil-Waututh, Squamish, Musqueam, and K’ómoks first nations.

Helen: Hello, and welcome to Love to Sew. I’m Helen, the designer behind Helen’s Closet Patterns.

Caroline: And I’m Caroline, the owner of Blackbird Fabrics.

Helen: We’re two sewing buds who love to sew our own clothes and want to encourage you on your sewing journey, too.

Caroline: Join us for today’s interview with Francisco Diaz.

Helen: Hello, Francisco. Thank you so much for coming on the show today.

Francisco: Hi! Thanks for having me.

Helen: Can you please introduce yourself to our listeners?

Francisco: Of course. Um, my name is Francisco. I run @ciscosews which is a sewing account on Instagram, and my pronouns are they and he.

Helen: Fantastic. We’ve always been so inspired by your sewing account. Well, since you started it at least. And where are you from?

Francisco: I was originally born here in Phoenix, Arizona. Um, but I grew up in, um, really rural New Mexico, um, in Southern New Mexico, almost by, like, the border of New Mexico and Mexico. So I really grew up, like, sort of, in the middle of nowhere where, um, I got to see a lot of nature. I spent, like, most of my childhood in the middle of the desert, just, like, wandering around, um, with all my cousins, but now I am back in Phoenix, Arizona, and I live here in downtown Phoenix.

Helen: Fantastic. And what fills your days aside from sewing and creating, of course?

Francisco: Yeah, I think sewing, like, fills my nighttime. And during the day I work as a designer for an event and design company. So, um, basically, I’m doing, like, video chats all day, designing really cool builds, and putting together a lot of mood boards. So, I’m, sort of, like, flexing that creative part of my brain pretty much all day.

Caroline: Wow. That sounds like a dream job. And it makes so much sense because you obviously are so creative with your sewing as well, which we’re going to get into. Um, but before we kinda dive into that, I’d love to go back to the beginning and hear about how and when you learned to sew.

Francisco: Yeah, so, whenever I learned to sew, it was actually right before the start of the pandemic, and I had gone on a trip, um, to Tokyo. And that was the first time I ever went into a sewing, um, store or, like, a fabric store. That was, like, the first time that I, like, I guess put the link together in my brain, like, oh, fabric becomes clothes becomes like, like somebody has to put this stuff together, was whenever I was there.

And then right whenever we got back from the trip, I was like, okay, I need to figure out how to do this. I need to buy a machine. And so I was just, like, hounding, um, one of my only friends who knows how to sew also just, like, asking her every question, like, what kind of thread do I need? Like, is this machine gonna fall apart? Like, all of those questions that I guess everybody has whenever they start. And I started putting together, like, my first couple of pieces that, like, definitely have fallen apart by now and are totally gone.

Um, but then I was, sort of, it was, like, you know, the global pandemic that we’re all sort of still figuring out. And that’s whenever I, sort of, had time to just sew all day and all night and really had a lot of time to just practice.

Caroline: Wow. So it’s only been a couple of years that you’ve been sewing, which is amazing. I’d love to know how, like, that learning process has been for you over the last little while.

Francisco: Uh, yeah, the, I don’t know. I guess it was just, sort of, like, I don’t want to say it came naturally because it was definitely difficult and it was definitely, like, nights where I was like, oh my God, like, this is not going to work. This is not worth it. Like, this is not for me, but it was just, like, such a passion that I wanted to figure out. And I wanted to, like, I knew the end goal of what I wanted to create, and I knew I was like, okay, let me just get over this hurdle. Let me just, like, make this t-shirt eight times until I, like, figure out the machine. and I figured out the rhythm. And, yeah, it was, like, really just a lot of practice.

Helen: Was it the idea of the garments that you wanted to create that was driving you? Like, did you always have that strong sense of style and you just were driven to want to create these amazing garments?

Francisco: Oh my gosh. Yes, like, literally my Pinterest boards are, like, overflowing, and I’m like, how, how does this work? Like, how am I going to do this? I need to get to the point where I can create this thing that I’ve, like, seen so many times on these boards.

Caroline: It’s so relatable, too, that struggle at the beginning of a lot of creative practices where you’re like, I see the end result that I want to achieve, but I’m hitting all these roadblocks along the way where I feel like I’m a beginner, you know, and I feel like I have a lot to learn, so it’s very relatable, and we’re happy that you pushed through because the things that you make are so, so cool. And, and we just love your style so much. And one of the things we read on your blog, um, was that you realized you were non-binary at around the same time as you were learning to sew. What was that like?

Francisco: What was that like? That’s a good question. I guess whenever I was, sort of, like, figuring out that I maybe wasn’t, um, totally, like, uh, on the gender binary or, like, figuring out where I was sort of on that, like, um, scale of, I guess, I dunno how to really word it. I guess whenever I was figuring out, sort of, more about my gender identity, it was because of sewing or maybe because all of these doors were open for me in terms of, like, how I express myself, um, that were, sort of, closed whenever I was so stuck in, like, shopping at specific stores.

Helen: Yeah. So you really felt like there were doors opening as far as the style and the expression of your gender and the way you were dressing, too?

Francisco: I think so. It was, sort of, like, the freedom to create how I look, like, led to a bunch of questions, like, well, why do I want to create just, like, pants and t-shirts? Like, why wouldn’t I want to create a dress? Or like, it was just, like, almost, like, a, a way for me to express those inner thoughts that I was, sort of, like, figuring out about my gender identity.

Helen: Oh, that’s really good to hear because I hope that others will have that experience, as well, with their creative expression. And we’re hoping to have more conversations on the podcast about de-gendering fashion. And I think it’s interesting with sewing that you can have a little bit more freedom, but of course, there’s still a lot of gender, I guess, labels being put on things in sewing, too. So what has that been like for you?

Francisco: I don’t know, like, a lot of this is very new to me and also just a lot of, a lot of questions are still unanswered, sort of, about, like, how I feel about being an, a person who is non-binary. Um, I think that what’s been a little bit helpful is just how open people are, like, in the sewing community, um, especially online or on social media. Like, having those people to, sort of, like, message or to have these conversations with or even to just read people’s blogs, um, sort of, talking about their experience has been so helpful to somebody who is, sort of, figuring that out on their own or feeling like they’re alone in figuring that out.

And I think what’s been a little bit strange. Getting over some of the hurdles of like, uh, I don’t even know how to explain it, but one example is that I was recently featured in, like, a “men who sew” sort of article. And even that was just like, oh, this doesn’t really feel 100% right. I’m, like, so grateful that I’m being considered as, like, um, a male who sews, but it’s, like, that doesn’t really fit with who I am anymore. So dealing with stuff like that is a little bit complicated.

Helen: Well, and you’re still pretty new to the sewing world, too, so I know you’re going to have an amazing journey ahead. And you have such an incredible aesthetic, so we definitely encourage our listeners to go and check out your makes on your Instagram. It really comes through in your garments and your home decor style. We love seeing little hints of that, too. So can you describe your aesthetic for our listeners?

Francisco: Oh my gosh. I don’t even know. It’s, I just try to create things that, okay, number one: I need to be comfortable because I am just like, if it’s not going to be comfortable, I won’t even put it on cause I’m just so, I don’t know, I need to be able to move and able to, like, you know, breathe. Um, I’m in the middle of the desert, also, so I need to be able to wear this outside and I’m not going to, you know, pass out.

But I just really, I try to rely on the aesthetic of where I was born and, sort of, like, living in the Southwest of the United States all of my life, I think a lot of the things that I’m drawn to are just, sort of, familiar, um, aesthetics of where I’ve been for my entire life. So like, the, like, rough woods or, like, um, sort of, like. that ranch aesthetic, I think I just naturally gravitate towards stuff like that.

Caroline: Yeah, lots of denim and, like, light, bright colors. I don’t know. Our listeners have to go and check out your Instagram. And I love that you said comfortable cause I think sometimes the word comfort can be associated with, like, frumpy or, like, a lot of jersey and knit fabrics but really, like, you work with all kinds of amazing textiles, and your garments are super, like, almost couture looking. Like, they just have such a cool, streamlined style to them. Like, I don’t know. I just think you have such a defined style. Um…

Helen: And yet, it’s undefinable.

Caroline: Undefinable. Yeah.

Francisco: Thank you. I really think that relying on, sort of, like, these second hand fabrics has almost forced me to explore things that I wouldn’t have, like, picked up at a, at a traditional fabric store.

Caroline: Yeah. And you, we know that we, you have a background in architecture and interior design, and you mentioned that earlier, but how does that, kind of, intersect with your clothing style? Do you feel like they sort of inform each other?

Francisco: I think the architecture and interior design almost helped me to be able to pick up sewing a little bit easier because I was so used to, sort of, like, seeing, like, these 3-D things and putting them into, like, a flat plane. So, like, being able to look at a room and make a floor plan is almost, like, almost trained my brain to be able to look at a garment and make a, like, flat plan of it, if that makes sense.

Helen: Or vice versa and look at the fabric and make a garment. Yeah. No, that makes a lot of sense. Yeah. Some of your pieces look quite architectural, too. Like, there’s a lot of structure in some of the pieces you make which I really enjoy.

Francisco: Thank you. I, I don’t know. I, I don’t really see, I don’t really think that architecture plays a huge role in, like, what I wear, but I think that it probably snuck in there somewhere. I just know that, like, in design school, it was, everybody was, like, all black head to toe, Doc Martens, like, black turtlenecks, and I think I always sort of stood out there just cause I was, like, that’s whenever I was really into thrifting and, like, I would buy clothes that were, like, the Halloween section.

Um, during Halloween time at Goodwill was, like, my favorite cause that’s wherever I could find, like, the loudest prints or, like, the craziest tees or, like, shirts. So I definitely don’t think I fit in with the aesthetic of, like, an architect, but the things that I learned in architecture school probably have stuck with me.

Helen: Yeah, we love that you make stuff out of thrifted fabrics, and we’re really excited to talk to you today a bit more about thrifting for fabrics and textiles to work with and are making. So where do you buy your thrifted fabrics and what are you looking for when you’re shopping?

Francisco: So I, I kind of vary, um, whenever I wasn’t really shopping a lot in person, I was really relying on, um, places like Etsy or even eBay to find, like, these vintage textiles. Or I recently, or not recently, but I made a shirt that was, um, out of, like, a Miss Piggy, um, sheet set, and so that was on Etsy. But what I really love to do is just thrift all, like, I’ll spend an entire 9:00 AM to almost like three in the evening just looking at every single thrift store, like, going through every single aisle, um, searching for different fabrics. And I think I’m so drawn to, like, interesting textures or just really beautiful, like, sort of, vintage-y prints, um, are what I’m really drawn to at the moment.

Caroline: And do you have any tips for hunting down those, like, thrifted textiles or garments that you will then be making into clothes as a sewist? Is there something specific that you look for other than color and print?

Francisco: Um, I think just, like, aside from really interesting, out of the ordinary things that maybe don’t feel very mass produced is what I just gravitate towards. But I think you also just have to think about the amount of fabric that’s there and what you could possibly make from it.

So sometimes if there’s a really beautiful blanket but it’s too small, I’ll just leave that for somebody who’s going to use it for its intended purpose. Or I think just being comfortable with saying, like, I don’t have the time for this right now. I think it’s beautiful, but I’ll come back to it if it’s still here. Or if I don’t, somebody who needs it will take it.

Helen: Yeah. We really enjoyed your thrifting guide on your Instagram. We’ll share that with our listeners this week for sure on social, but can you share some of your tips for thrifting ethically and making sure that you’re taking things you’re actually going to use?

Francisco: What I really tried to get in that thrifting guide is just my own perspective and, sort of, like, I don’t want, like, it’s not even that serious as, like, a code of ethics, but just, sort of, the things that I think about whenever I’m at a thrift store, um, because these places are traditionally for people who, you know, rely on places that are, sort of, that are more affordable for them to find clothing, you know, for their every day.

So as somebody, like me, who, um, can afford to shop at a place that might be a little bit higher up or a little bit more expensive, I just try to be as respectful as I can whenever I’m searching in these places that are for these people who rely on them. And I think a lot of the things that I put in that guide were just, like, common sense things that I think about, like, that we can all, sort of, implement anywhere now, even if it’s not a thrift store.

Like, avoid over-consumption. Um, leave some for everybody. If you don’t have time, like, to make something don’t, I’m not really a big, like, hoarder of fabrics or, like, somebody who has, like. a big stockpile just cause I know, I just feel like if I take it, that’s taking away the opportunity for somebody who might need it.

Helen: Yeah, I really enjoyed these tips. And you also say to shop off seasons so you can leave seasonal items for people who may need them, or, you know, not buying larger sizes, leaving those sizes for people who may need them. So I think there’s some great tips in here. And like I said, we’ll share that for sure. So thank you for that.

Francisco: Yeah, I think, especially the, like, shopping off season is something that I try so hard to do, just because I remember what it was like, like, going to the thrift store right before school was starting. Um, like, whenever I was in high school and I, like, trying to find something that I would want to wear, like, whenever I was like, at my most, like, insecure of what I looked like.

So whenever I’m finding, like, these awesome, like, on-trend items, I can’t help but think about myself whenever I was, whenever I was a younger age, like, somebody’s gonna find this and they’re going to love it, so I better not because I can find something else, like, that I can transform.

Helen: And how do you decide what you’re going to transform these thrifted pieces into? Do you have a vision going into it or do you let the garment speak to you?

Francisco: Um, most of the time I let the garment speak to me or, like, if I’m really, if I have a project in mind, like, right now I’m back into, like, um, sewing, these, like, patchwork dresses out of dress shirts, so that’s always like in the back of my mind. Or, like, I know that I really want to make a really cool, um, like, uh, I don’t even know what it’s called, maybe, like, a tunic, like, a long, a really long shirt out of just, like, this heavily embroidered fabric. I, like, I have these projects in the back of my mind, but I’ll hold onto them until I find the right piece cause I know it’s, I know it’s coming. I just need to be there whenever it’s available.

Caroline: Awesome. And do you often use, like, sewing patterns to make your garments or do you usually draft your own?

Francisco: Oh my gosh. So many people ask me and I feel so bad whenever they’re like, oh, what’s the pattern for this shirt? And I’m like, um, I, kind of, put it together, like, at three in the morning. I don’t know what the pattern is, like, this came out of just desperation and, like, trying to fit it onto my body. Um, so I don’t really rely on patterns just because, also sometimes I don’t have a typical width of fabric or, um, I don’t have a lot of fabric to waste if it’s, like, a thrifted piece or a thrifted, like if it’s a thrifted bed sheet or something like that, I don’t really have the amount of fabric that may be a pattern would call for. So it’s a lot of hacking, um, and a lot of just, like, putting it on, oh no, this isn’t going to work and then taking it off and then putting it back on and, sort of, adjusting that way.

Helen: That’s such a fun way to approach sewing, and I think it’s great to encourage our listeners out there who are new to sewing, too, to experiment with that method because it can really work for people and, um, help to just inspire their creativity along the way, too.

Francisco: Absolutely. And I really did, like, at the beginning, whenever I was, um, I mean, I’m still learning a lot about sewing, but whenever I was way at the beginning stages, I did rely on patterns, and I think I actually found some at a thrift store. And once I found a dress shirt pattern that I just, like, the shoulders fit me perfectly, I think that’s whenever I, sort of, started learning about hacking patterns and adjusting the patterns for what you want. But if you can find, like, one pattern that, sort of, has the basics of what you want to make, I think that is, like, a huge benefit, and one pattern can really turn into a bunch of different silhouettes and garments.

Helen: So true. You’re speaking my language.

Caroline: You posted on Earth Day about your goals for the coming year. And we love this idea of making Earth Day resolutions instead of New Year’s ones. Can you talk to our listeners about what some of these goals were for you?

Francisco: Yeah, I think whenever I put that together, I was like, I was trying to think about a lot of the things that I was seeing being posted, which is, like, great things that I think a lot of us can implement about the planet and about the way that we, sort of, like, treat our environment and what I was trying to focus on were like, 0f course, I’m already seeing a lot of information about that, but I was trying to think about specifically, like, how I treat other people and how I treat, I guess, how I treat other people that are, like, inhabiting the earth around us and how, like, maybe kindness can lead to some of these other things manifesting on their own.

So, like, being more open to meeting new people or, like, being more generous. I think Earth Day can definitely be about, sort of, like, how we treat our planet, but I think treating the people who are on this planet well can also be a huge benefit and something to think about on Earth Day.

Caroline: Yeah, it’s, it’s such a great idea because I think, you know, we often want to set goals and, and I think there’s, like, a lot of weird feelings around New Year’s resolutions. So coming to it on a day, like Earth Day, and setting intentions like that on Earth Day, it allows you to, kind of, think of it through the lens of, like, I want to help my planet, but also what are, you know, my personal goals and things that I want to do. And for you, maybe that was meeting new people and being kinder and open, but you can look at it through that Earth Day lens, which I think is, is so cool and so important. And we just love your, kind of, approach to sustainability and, and your focus on sustainability in your practice. And we’d love to hear a little bit more about that, about how you, kind of, go about being sustainable in your sewing and making.

Francisco: Yeah, I think it’s, it’s definitely, I, I, like, put in my bio just because it helps me to, sort of, ;ess stressed out that it’s, like, all about imperfect sustainability. Like, I’m not an expert. I am just a human that’s, sort of, like, learning these things as best that I can. So taking that weight off of my shoulders of, like, everything that I do has to be perfectly sustainable, like, has helped me to, sort of, like, get over those barriers of smaller action items that I can take.

So taking the stress of being perfect away has opened the door to, sort of, me being more experimental or, like, trying things out. If they fail, then at least I tried it, and I have a new direction to go in. So I think that’s a huge, sort of, like, guiding light for me is, like, you don’t need to be perfect to be a sustainability advocate. Um, you just need to do your best and try as many different things as you can, I think.

Caroline: It’s so true. I think progress over perfection is, like, the name of the game with sustainability. Like, it’s impossible to do it in all areas of your life, but finding those small ways and, like, figuring out what sticks for your life is so important and all of that adds up, right?

Francisco: I also just think that to, like, take the pressure off of, like, the everyday person, you know, we definitely have ways that we can adjust our life, but I think it’s definitely, like, a systematic change that needs to happen. So using your voice to get some of those, um, bigger pieces out there and doing your best to, sort of, make these smaller changes is, sort of, what I try to do.

Caroline: Yeah, you’re so right. It is about those bigger systems and putting pressure on corporations and bigger companies to, kind of, make changes as well. I wonder from, like, a creativity standpoint, like, how do you balance, sort of, creating creative expression that, like, output that you, sort of, need as an artist and a maker, making new clothes, how do you balance all of that with a sustainability mindset and how do you, sort of, justify that?

Francisco: I think, like, relying on, sort of, like, what a lot of different people in the community has really helped me to, sort of, put together my own system of beliefs. Um, so specifically, like, starting with figuring out my own wardrobe before I’m, like, producing all of these items to sell, I think has been a huge, almost, like, relief that I don’t need to be creating all of these pieces all the time to get them out there to make money.

It’s more about, like, the personal relationship that I’m going to have with these items and making sure that whenever I make them they’re something that I’m going to want to wear for a long time. What I’m telling myself now, like, take it slow, figure out what’s going to work for you, and don’t worry about, you know, the constant, like, pressure of like, hey, you got to get that post out there. Or like, hey, you could be making, like, five of these and making a little bit of a profit. It’s more, what I’m trying to do is just focus on, you know, slowing it all down for myself.

Helen: Oh, I’m sure you get those requests a lot. Do you? Like people, I want one. Where can I get one?

Francisco: Yeah, totally. And like, at first, I was like, this isn’t, I don’t know. Like, I get that, um, it’s a compliment, like, oh my gosh, like, this is something that I would love to have, but it’s like, almost, like, can you just be more happy with, you know, great job instead of like, this is something that I want for myself, you know? Like the way that you, I don’t know, the way that that sometimes comes across, it’s like, no, this is something beautiful for me, and that’s that’s enough.

Helen: Well, and especially with these pieces that are, like, one of a kind, like, you’re not going to find another, um, Miss Peggy’s sheet set, I mean, maybe you will, but…

Francisco: Totally.

Helen: So what are some of your favorite garments that you’ve made? I know it’s a tough question, but we’d love to share some of your work.

Francisco: Well, that’s a good question. I don’t know. Everything that I make, sort of, like, becomes the favorite for, like, a couple of weeks and then I’m like, hm, remember that Pinterest board that’s full of things that you want to make. But I think that, like, the pieces that I wear the most are, like, just because of, sort of, like, where I am in the world. Like, right now in the summertime, like, I’m loving, sort of, like, these more flowy, um, dresses that I’ve made, that I can, sort of, like, wear at home.

And I just posted actually, well, I posted a while ago, a dress that I made that’s out of all of these like neutral white button ups. And I made it as, sort of, like, I don’t know, I, I just try to, um, piece them together in a way that, like, kept it, sort of, minimalistic and simple but also, like, celebrated, like, the very small differences in the fabric and, like, having them all come together, and it also just fits really well and, like, feels really comfortable when I wear it. So I think, like, that dress is something that I’m really, really proud of.

Caroline: It’s so cool. And kind of muted, for you, based on your other garments, but I love it. And I love, like, the, kind of, juxtaposition of the different textures of the fabric, like you said, it’s, it’s super, super cool. We’ll definitely link it up in the show notes. We actually want to talk to you about patchwork and some of the other ways that you transform textiles into something completely new, and we’d love to, kind of, talk about some of these techniques and share that with our listeners.

Um, one of the things that you’ve done on your Instagram is, or what you’ve done in your practice that you’ve shared on your Instagram is, painting. Paint-, you did some painted pants and some amazing, like, markered pieces. Can you describe some of these illustrated garments for our listeners?

Francisco: Yeah, I think that was one of the first ways that I, sort of, got into upcycling because it was something that I could do without a sewing machine and something that I just love to do, which is, like, illustrate or, like, doodle all day. Um, and, like, I, sort of, got into painting for awhile. And so it was something that I could do to, like, express myself in clothing before I really knew how to sew.

Um, so what I love to do is just, like, illustrate, like, classic iconography of, like, the Southwest or of New Mexico, where I grew up. And I just do that by basically, like, drawing some of, like, random memories that I have or, like, pieces that I’ve seen, um, like, pieces of architecture that I’ve seen, stuff like that. And I, what I always try to do with each piece is, like, stick to a theme that way everything sort of, like, feels cohesive.

So whenever I was working with, like, this canvas material a lot, I made two different pairs of shorts. And one of them was all about New Mexico. And then one of them was all about Corpus Crispy, Corpus Christi, Texas. So, like, celebrating those two places and, like, sort of, learning more about their history and then depicting that, um, through the illustrations.

Helen: And what is the process like, like where do you even begin with putting, like, a paintbrush or marker onto a project? It just seems, kind of, scary. Do you, like, talk it out first at all? Or do you just go for it?

Francisco: No, it’s all about having no fear. Like, well, a lot of the times what I’ll do is like I’ll doodle them all on a paper. So, like, I’ll be, like, for instance, whenever I was doing the, the New Mexico piece, what I started to do was, like, all throughout the week while I was just, like, listening to video calls for work or, like, watching TV, I would be like, oh, like, a horseshoe would be really cool. So then I would doodle, like, five different horseshoes. And then I would be like, I know that I want to, sort of, like, represent, like, these traditional, like, Ranchero, kind of, looking figures that I always saw, like, on TV or that my grandpa, sort of, looked like. So then it was, like, okay, let me doodle a little couple of guys and see, like, which one I like best. So then I always have it, a reference of what I want to put onto the fabric, um, sort of, like, by me, before I start drawing, so then I have something to look back on and, sort of, like, figure out the scale of. But it’s really about, sort of, just, like, going with it, having no fear. Like, if you mess up, that’s totally fine. It’s all about celebrating, you know, celebrating the imperfections and being happy with what you come out with.

Helen: It’s very inspiring. I’ve never painted or drawn on anything that I’ve sewn. And it seems, kind of, crazy now that I say it out loud, because why the heck not?

Francisco: Totally. I think that’s, like, add that to the bucket list. Add that to, like, you know, the sewing list that we all have.

Helen: Yeah, definitely. Okay. We also want to talk about cyanotype. Am I saying that right?

Francisco: Yes. That’s how I say it.

Helen: Okay, great. We saw that you’ve been experimenting with that, um, these dark blue jackets with these white shapes, and we’ve never done this before. So can you describe that process for us?

Francisco: Yes. Oh my gosh. Okay. So cyanotype is traditionally used in photography. So it’s, like, a way to expose photographs. Um, and it’s traditionally used, like, on regular paper, but what I saw a lot of people doing is using plants. And so they’ll, like, expose the fabric and then lay a bunch of, like, natural fibers, like leaves on a fabric and then expose it that way.

Um, and it’s basically just, like, putting a fabric into the emulsion that turns it, like, this weird, like, yellow color. And then you let that dry. And then you put whatever you’re going to expose onto that fabric and leave it out in the sun for, like, here in Phoenix, it’s really fast just because the sun is so crazy, but, um, I put it out for about, like, five to 10 minutes and then everything that is not exposed to the sun remains white. And then everything that the sun touches turns that really beautiful, like, indigo blue color, and then you just rinse it out, and you can put it through the wash, and you have, like, this really incredible result.

Caroline: It’s so cool. Here in the Pacific Northwest, I feel like it would take us days.

Helen: Maybe.

Caroline: Uh, no, such a cool process. I’ve seen it done on paper before, but I’d never seen it done on fabric. And it’s just, like, create such a really cool, kind of, contrasting element to the print and it, it just comes out really, really awesome. Yeah. Tell us about, like, is there, do you have a specific project that we should link up that you did this on or a favorite project with cyanotype?

Francisco: Um, I think that my fav-, well, I was doing it really, like, I was, um, practicing with cyanotype, like, almost every weekend last summer just cause it was, like, so new, and I was, like, I wanted to get the process, like, perfect. So I had a lot of, sort of, like, these scrap pieces that, like, weren’t perfectly printed or, like, they weren’t as clear as I would have liked. And what I did was turn those into two different jackets.

Cause what I was trying to do was create, like, a dress out of cyanotype, but I didn’t ever get, like, the print as perfectly, like, crisp as I was envisioning in my head. So then, like, pausing from that and creating something with these, like, fabric scraps was, sort of, like, almost therapeutic where I was like, just take a break. Like, let your mind, sort of, relax and like, don’t worry about getting it perfect.

Um, and I ended up making two different jackets. One of them is, like, really light. Like, I was actually wearing it yesterday, and it just has, like, a simple tie in the front. And then the other one is, um, more of, like, a winter coat. Like, it’s a little bit more thick. Um, but those are two projects that I really loved out of cyanotype.

Caroline: Very cool. Thank you. We will definitely link that up. Um, you also recently did some natural dye experiments. Can you tell us a little bit more about that?

Francisco: Yeah, I still have a lot more to learn about natural dye, but it was actually, I blamed TikTok cause I was, you know, scrolling through TikTok and then people were dyeing different pieces with avocado, and it, like, gives you this really, like, beautiful, like, peachy pink color. And I’m, like, no, this is not possible. Like, how does an avocado pit turn into this pink color? So then I just happened to have, like, a lot of t-shirts that, um, were sort of, like, this natural light, tan color. I had to, like, try it out for myself, and it worked.

Caroline: Yeah. It’s really cool. And you did these cool, kind of, like, tie dye resists. Um, it just turned out really, really awesome. And, sort of, like, that light pink tone that you get from avocados… so, so cool.

Francisco: It’s so unexpected.

Caroline: I know, right? How does the green avocado become pink? We’ll never know

Helen: Nature.

Caroline: Okay. Finally, we have to talk about patchwork because you’ve made some really cool patchwork garments. Um, and we want to, kind of, get your advice on how you can play with patchwork in a garment and how do you decide what fabrics to pair together?

Francisco: Uh, yeah. That’s something that I’m still figuring out. Like, I would love, I think one of my, like, sewing goals is to be skilled enough, like, have the patience and, like, have the time to, like, put together a really beautiful, elaborate quilt.

I think that’s, like, life goal to just have a beautiful quilt that I can put together. But what I really try to do whenever I’m putting these patchwork pieces together is match, um, fabric types. So, like, I’ll do all t-shirts, or I’ll do all, like, muslin bedsheets or, like, all linen. Um, that way they, like, feel good, like, whenever you’re wearing them and the fabric behaves really similarly whenever you’re sewing it together.

Helen: Yeah, that’s a really good tip when it comes to pairing fabrics. And I also am curious how you manage all of the intersecting seam lines? Because you can end up with a lot of those when you’re working with patchwork.

Francisco: I know. Um, I don’t know, like, hm, how do I do it? I guess I just, like, take the extra time to make sure that everything is, like, pressed perfectly. Like, I don’t know. That’s sort of what I just try to do. Like, keep it as neat as you can, but you know, don’t stress about it too much.

Helen: Yeah. It’s like cross that bridge when you come to it but more like finish that seam when you come to it.

Francisco: Like, just pray. As long as it looks good, it’ll work.

Helen: And do you ever, like, throw together textiles just to make fabric? Or do you always have a project in mind when you’re working with your scraps?

Francisco: No, I, I mostly always have a project in mind or, like, I’ll have a lot of, um, pieces of something or, like, recently, I’ve made a couple of t-shirts that are sort of these patchwork, like, a bunch of different t-shirts coming together to make one t-shirt. So, a lot of the times the projects are just, like, what I have a lot, um, accumulating in my studio here.

Helen: Yeah, that makes sense. Work with what you got. Okay, so some of these projects and techniques we’ve talked about seem a little labor and time intensive. So, um, I’m wondering how you manage your projects and your time to, like, follow through and actually get things finished? Or are you always jumping in between projects?

Francisco: Uh, no. So I definitely am somebody who, like, has to finish it. And, uh, mostly it’s just because of space. Like, I can’t ha-, I don’t have the space in my house to just have, like, different projects laying around or I’ll get really overwhelmed if there’s something that’s not completed.

So most of the time I’ll work all the way up until the end of the day, have dinner, like, have a little bit of me time, and then at, like, nine or 10 o’clock, is whenever my brain starts, like, getting incredibly creative and, like, needs just to make something. So then I’ll just work until I’m like, uh, I think I literally cannot stand anymore. I need to go to bed.

Caroline: I love this. I love this technique. Just work until you need to sleep. Um, you also do, like, a ton of experimenting, and I know you’ve mentioned earlier when we were talking about, um, kind of, painting on fabric that it doesn’t have to be perfect, but do you ever have projects or techniques that just totally don’t work out? And how do you handle that and bounce back from?

Francisco: Of course, like, definitely some things don’t work out or, like, the technique is more advanced than I know how to do. But a lot of the times, a lot of the times I’ll save it, and I’ll just like, wait until, hm, how do I even put this into words? Like, I’ll, I’ll, if I ruin, let’s say I ruined a t-shirt and I can’t use it for the intended purpose that I wanted to, then I’ll try to hold onto it and maybe a piece of it can become something else or it can be the foundation for, like, a new patchwork piece. But I just try not to sweat it. Like, sewing is supposed to be, or for me, I’m lucky enough that sewing is, sort of, like, a creative outlet. And so I don’t have, like, a deadline and I don’t have, like, anybody waiting for the piece. So I just try not to sweat it, and I move on.

Helen: You make it sound so easy. What is your favorite, um, technique that you’re using in your work right now? Do you have one?

Francisco: I don’t think I have a favorite technique. I think right now what I’m really trying to get back into is, um, customizing fabrics, um, so stuff like the, the drawing or like cyanotype. I think it just feels so much, I just, like, get so much more joy whenever the fabric is something that I’ve created and then the garment is something that I created. It just feels, like, way more me. And, um, that’s sort of, like, what I’m trying to get back into. And maybe it’s, like, the summertime that makes me want to, like, experiment with all of these different, like, techniques to, like, change fabric. But that’s definitely what I’m interested in again.

Caroline: Yeah, we really admire that you are, uh, were seem to be always experimenting and trying new techniques. And I wonder if you have any advice that you would give to someone who, like, wants to try a new technique to transform a textile but is a little bit intimidated.

Francisco: Yeah, I think that I would start with, like, something that is inexpensive. Like, you don’t want to ruin something that maybe was a lo-, like you don’t want to ruin something that you’ve paid a lot of money for. So I would say check out the thrift store, find something that’s on sale or that, you know, is off season, something that maybe somebody can’t get a use out of as easily. And I definitely, before I do any projects, I just, like, have a little bit of time to research, so I’ll look at examples of what other people have done.

Or I’ll, like, test out different markers. Or I’ll test out, like, the cyanotype, I test it out on like some smaller pieces of fabric before I jumped into, like, the larger piece. I think a lot of the times, like, as creative people, we just want to jump in, but that, like, designer part of my brain is like, okay, wait. Do some research. Like, do some field studies. Do, like, look at what other people have done first. And then I feel more confident to get in there and try it myself.

Caroline: Yeah, that’s really good advice. Start small, test, do your research. It feels less intimidating.

Francisco: Exactly.

Helen: And are there any textile transforming techniques that you want to try, but you haven’t yet?

Francisco: Um, I definitely need to get more experience with natural dyeing just because there’s, like, so many beautiful colors that I haven’t been able to find whenever I’m thrifting or I’ll, like, find something that’s stained, and I know, like, natural dyeing might, like, hide the stain a little bit better than I can. So I think that’s, sort of, where I’m headed in the future.

Helen: That’s very exciting. It’s such a broad topic, and there’s so much chemistry involved. It’s a little intimidating, but I’m sure you’re going to do amazing things with it. It’s going to be so fun.

Francisco: Thank you. I will definitely try. I’m sorry to Gerard who lives here with me. Like, he’s going to be smelling some funky things for awhile whenever I’m like, whenever I have something steeping on the stove for, like, three days.

Helen: So true. Yeah, you need good ventilation. Well, you mentioned earlier about one of your Earth Day goals is to open yourself up to more collaborations and meeting more people. And we’ve noticed that you’ve been doing more collabs. So what are some of the things that you’ve been working on this year with other people?

Francisco: Uh, yeah, I think, like, this year, I just wanted to learn as much as I could from other people and, like, learn from people who are doing the things that I want to do so well. So I think I just had to get over the hurdle of, like, being a Capricorn, like, being afraid of, like, rejection or failure. And just saying like, hey, this is sort of where I am. This is, like, what I love to do. Like, what can we do together? And, like, recently I did, um, some jumpsuits for a really awesome company called For Days. And they had, um, sort of, like, an excess of one of their styles. And so I was able to upcycle some of those pieces for them and create something brand new. And that was through, like, illustrating on fabric.

Helen: Oh, so cool. We’ll have to link that up in the show notes so people can check that out, too.

Caroline: You also did some really cool projects for Pride this year that we wanted to plug, but what was it like to work with other queer creators on queer focused projects?

Francisco: Uh, that was like, oh, that was such a great month. Just because I got to talk to so many, um, like, queer creators that weren’t even in, like, um, fashion or, like, weren’t really interested in sewing and just were just these incredibly creative people. So we were able to put together, like, some t-shirts. One of my friends and I did, like, a really fun photoshoot where he, like, created this awesome backdrop out of nowhere. Like, he just showed up with a bunch of fabric and then I turned around and it’s all put together and beautiful.

And I also just, like, love illustration. So I reached out to some of the people that are really inspiring to me who are putting out really awesome work. And we put together this, like, pack of postcards that we were able to put out there and raise some money for, like, a queer organization. So that was, like, one of the most memorable months of, like, collaboration for me, just because I got to learn so much and get out of my comfort zone a little bit, like, step outside of sewing for a little bit. Um, and it was really valuable.

Helen: That sounds so fun. We were just commenting about that amazing, I’m guessing it’s some kind of tulle that happened, the background in that rainbow pattern,and it looks incredible.

Francisco: I know. I, like, left it up for the entire month because I just didn’t want to take it down. And so, like, in all of my work calls, they were like, did you make that? Like, what is that? And I was like, no, it was him. And isn’t it great? And, like, taking it down at the end of the month, just felt so sad, but it’ll be, uh, it’ll be back in some form.

Helen: Oh, good. Um, I want to come back to what you said about being a Capricorn and getting over your fear of rejection. And I feel like there’s probably other folks out there who are interested in doing more collaborations. And I’m wondering if you have any tips on how one goes about getting a gig to do a collaboration. Like, what kind of, uh, reach out do you do to these brands to get these collabs?

Francisco: Yeah, definitely. I think what I really try to do is just be respectful. Like, people have, I mean, I think we can all relate. Like, we have really busy lives. Like, we have projects that we’re really interested in. So, you know, don’t expect somebody to drop everything that they’re going to do to collaborate with you and just be respectful of people’s time, you know? Like, are you asking too much? Are you putting as much, um, onto the table as they can, sort ofm offer? So just being respectful of, being respectful of how valuable people’s time are and also being respectful of the type of skill that they’re going to be using. Um, like, making sure not to take advantage of somebody is something that I really try to think about before I reach out to somebody.

And then I think that it always helps if you have, like, even if it’s, like, the beginning of an idea, like, hey, I would love to use illustration to, to, like, transform something that you’ve made. Just having something that’s, like, a thought starter that you can start to, like, collaborate with, throw ideas around, um, I think always helps people to, sort of, get on board, um, because it’s not like me reaching out and being like, I would love to collaborate, but then, well, what? Like, you need to almost, like, sell the idea before somebody can buy into it.

Helen: Yeah, that’s true. But then leaving space, too, for other people’s creative expression, especially with collaboration, right? And like, not necessarily pigeonholing them into your idea but leaving that opportunity for the collaboration part of it, too, which it sounds like you’re really good about doing so, yeah. I encourage our listeners to reach out to people. Maybe it’s just other makers that they follow and see if they want to do some kind of collaboration. Maybe it’s just from afar coordinating outfits. I don’t know. It could be anything.

Francisco: Ooh. I love that. Definitely, like, it always helps. I mean, who wouldn’t want to hear, you know, like, I love what you did or, like, I love this specific piece. So definitely celebrating what they do, um, always helps, you know, like, butter somebody up before you ask them to make something.

Helen: You’re so incredible.

Caroline: Have you found that people are coming to you as well? Cause I noticed that you have in your Instagram profile, like, “Always open to collaborate.” And you, sort of, put that out into the world. With your Earth Day resolutions, did you find that that, sort of, invited people into your world, as well, to, kind of, approach you for collaborations?

Francisco: Definitely. I think that was, like, that was just something that I was so, I mean, like, almost embarrassed to say like, hey, let’s work together. Just because, like, I feel, like, sewing and, like, creating things is so intimate that it was almost scary for me to, like, peek into somebody’s world and ask them to work together.

But putting out the message that you’re open to work together, that you have space in your life to, sort of, like, collaborate with other people, I think has opened so many doors for me that I’m so happy. So, putting out the message first is also a great way to, sort of, attract what you are looking for.

Caroline: Very good. Yeah, and you’ve mentioned earlier about, kind of, going outside of your comfort zone and expanding your comfort zone, and I bet we have a lot of listeners who would also like to do that. And I wonder if you have any thoughts or things that you’ve learned along the way through this journey of, kind of, getting outside of your comfort zone.

Francisco: I think, like, it’s always worse in your head than it’ll ever be in real life. Like, the worst thing that, so whenever I’m, like, about to approach somebody or message somebody it’s always like, okay. The worst thing that they can ever do is say no. Or the worst thing that they’re going to do is I don’t know, like, block you or be like, no. Like, you’ll never collaborate with me. Like, most people are not going to do that.

So it almost helps me, like, I don’t know if this is healthy or if it’ll work for other people, but it almost is good for me to be, like, well, the worst thing that’s going to happen is this. So might as well just give it a try. Uh, almost 99.9% never going to be that worst case scenario. And I think, like, you’ll be surprised with how, with how kind people can be which has been really awesome.

Helen: Yeah. That’s great advice. I am often using the worst case scenario strategy in my life, and I do find it comforting. So I don’t think it’s weird at all. And where do you see Cisco Sews going in the future? Do you have any big dreams or plans that you want to share with us?

Francisco: Oh, my gosh. I don’t know. Like, I really, I think that right now, what I’m really trying to do is just be, like, a really good student and learn as much as I can. Like, learn from others. Um, learn through trial and error and just try to become, like, the best creative sewist that I can. Um, and what I’m really trying to do is, like, keep, like, pressure away and just, like, try to be, you know, for me, like, putting too much pressure on myself or, like, worrying too much about what could be or, like, what I could be doing with my time, I think is just really stifling for, like, my creative process. So just being excited about, like, the moment, being excited for, like, what I can do now and always being open to learning is what, um, are, like, my main plans. I don’t really have a huge, like, list of goals for Cisco Sews at all.

Caroline: Well, we can’t wait to see what you do in the future. And your work is so inspiring and fun. And I hope that this episode inspires our listeners to go and check you out if they haven’t already. Um, tell our listeners where they can find you online.

Francisco: Yeah. Um, you can find me on @ciscosews on Instagram, and I also have ciscosews.com where I put a couple of blogs. I’m trying to get better at blogging, but, like, writing to me is like pulling teeth. Like, it’s not how I express myself at all, but I will try to put more blogs out. But Instagram is definitely the place where I’m most active.

Caroline: It’s the place to be. Awesome. We’ll, we’ll definitely link all of that up in the show notes. Thank you so much, Francisco, for talking to us today. It was such a fun convo.

Francisco: Yeah, thank you so much for having me. And, um, thank you just for reaching out. Like, this podcast is so inspiring. I’ve listened to so many episodes, so thank you so much for holding this space for all of these conversations.

Caroline: Oh, it’s an honor having you on.

Helen: Thanks Francisco. Take care.

Caroline: Bye.

Francisco: Bye.

Helen: Bye.

Caroline: That’s it for today’s episode of Love to Sew. You can find me Caroline at blackbirdfabrics.com and Helen at helensclosetpatterns.com. We’re recording in beautiful British Columbia, Canada.

Helen: Head to lovetosewpodcast.com to find our show notes. They’re filled with links and pictures from this episode. And if you’d like to get in touch with us, send us an email at hello@lovetosewpodcast.com.

Caroline: And if you love Love to Sew and you want more, you can sign up for our Patreon. For just $5 a month, you get a full length bonus episode and weekly behind the scenes pics. For $10 a month, you get all that plus a mini episode focused on sewing techniques and 15% off discount codes for Helen’s Closet and Blackbird Fabrics. Patreon is the best way to support us so that we can keep making quality sewing content. Go to patreon.com/lovetosew for more info.

Helen: Thanks to our amazing podcast team. Lisa Ruiz is our creative assistant. Jordan Moore is our editor. And Margaret Wakelee is our transcriber. And thank you so much for listening. We’ll see you next week.

Caroline: Bye.

Helen: Bye.

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