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Transcript:

Helen: We are recording today on the traditional, ancestral, and unceded territories of the Coast Salish and Kwakwaka’wakw peoples, including Tsleil-Waututh, Squamish, Musqueam, and K’ómoks first nations.

Caroline: ​ Hello and welcome to Love To Sew. I’m Caroline, the owner of Blackbird Fabrics and BF Patterns.

Helen: And I’m Helen, the designer behind Helen’s Closet Patterns and Cedar Quilt Co.

Caroline: We’re two sewing buds who love to sew and it’s all we know how to talk about.

Helen: This episode is an introduction to projector sewing, meaning you skip the paper and just project your pattern directly onto the fabric! We talk about what you need for a successful setup and how to use it. We talk about the pros and cons of projector sewing versus printing out PDF patterns. And we also answer a listener question about pants length adjustments.

Caroline: If you love to sew, this is your show. Hi Helen. How are you?

Helen: I’m doing great. Thanks. How are you?

Caroline: I am good. It’s a really beautiful day here, so I’m in a good mood.

Helen: Ugh, that always makes a difference. And I’m excited for this topic. It’s gonna be a good one.

Caroline: Me too. Me too. It’s a really good one. We actually just had a big discussion before the show together about projector sewing. We have a lot to say on the topic. And it was really fun researching for this episode and learning more about the topic.

Helen: Definitely. And I’m really excited to share because I know our listeners are curious, too, so we’re gonna get into that. But we wanted to first mention that the best way to support Love to Sew is by joining us over on Patreon or Apple Podcast subscriptions. You get access to bonus content every month, and we have a lot of fun catching up with everybody on those more casual bonus episodes. We chat about our lives, behind the scenes of running our businesses, all that good stuff.

Caroline: Yeah, those episodes are so fun and it really means so much if you’re able to support us over there, even if it’s just for a month or two. And if that’s not in the cards for you right now, we totally get it. We just wanna say thanks for listening and for cheering us on.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: Okay. Before we get into the topic, let’s answer a question from a listener. This one is from Amelia. “Hey there! I am working on a pants pattern and, as someone with long legs, I always have to add length to pants to make sure I’m not rocking high waters. 🙂 I have noticed in the section of the instructions of some pants patterns, they have you do some math and divide the difference between your height and the pattern’s intended height by a number. Why is that? The first few times I read it, I thought it was incorrect, so I just would add the number of inches that was different to the pant. (Like, if it was supposed to be for someone who is 5’8″ and I am 6′, I just added the 4″). But all the times I’ve done it this way the pants are way too long! What is this process called and where can I learn more about why we do it this way? Thanks for the help in advance and I hope you all are enjoying a fantastic summer!”

Helen: Hi, Amelia! Thank you for writing to us. This is a really great question. I get it occasionally in my inbox because we also mention this in our patterns; we say “divide by two.” And the reason why the difference between your height and the height that the pattern is drafted for is divided is because usually there are multiple areas where the height is distributed. So a taller person might need extra length above the bust, below the bust, in the rise of the pants, and in the length of the pants. It’s possible that a tall person might have a similar torso to a shorter person and have all of their height difference in their really long legs, but that isn’t usually the case. So dividing the height difference will give you a rough estimate of where your length should be added. It’s a good strategy for making your first muslin or your first wearable toile, but if you want a really great fit, you need to figure out exactly where and how much to adjust at each of those points. So for example, I’m 5’9” and I like to adjust in my rise on my pants and in the length of my pants to distribute that a little bit more.

Caroline: Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. Another thing to think about is the shape of the pants. If the legs have any shaping, like tapering, wide legs, or bell bottoms, it can change the overall look. If you just add the length onto the end, like, the hems can get too small in a tapered pant or too wide on a bell bottom. Usually pants patterns will have lengthen and shorten lines printed on them so you can adjust the rise and the legs. And when you slash and spread along these lines, you’ll keep the shape that the pattern maker intended. So we’ll link up some tutorials for how to do length adjustments in the show notes. And we’re wishing you all the best with your pants fitting journey, Amelia!

Helen: Okay, Caroline, are you ready? Let’s turn down the lights because it’s time to talk about projector sewing.

Caroline: Okay. This has been a highly requested topic by our listeners. Some of them are projector sewing enthusiasts who want to spread the word, and some are just curious about sewing with projectors and want to know more. So we’re really excited to talk about this today.

Helen: Yeah, and basically projector sewing is a way to eliminate the process of printing and assembling your PDF sewing patterns, or handling those big sheets of tissue if you’re using a classic pattern. You’re just projecting an image of the pattern directly onto your fabric and then you’re cutting it out, following those lines that are projected onto the fabric. We’re gonna talk about what you need for your own setup, the pros and cons of projector sewing, and some resources that will support you if you decide that projector sewing is for you.

Caroline: Okay. And we do wanna mention, here at the top, that we are not projector sewists. We decided to make this episode because our listeners have shown a huge interest in it. We knew we could do the research and make a guide and overview that is gonna give you all the info and resources that people need to get started. We encourage you to visit the links in the show notes for this episode if you want to learn more. But Helen and I watched a lot of videos. We did our own research. We have our amazing assistant who did a ton of research. So we’re feeling really confident going into this that we know how this works and we know why people love it, and we’re excited.

Helen: Yes, I am excited, and I might even be converted, and we’re gonna get into that. I am very curious to give this a try because it sounds very intriguing to me. So first, let’s talk about setups. There’s actually a few different setups you can use for projector sewing, including using your phone. But according to the Quickstart Guide file, which is available on the Projectors for Sewing Facebook Group, which, by the way, is a great resource, if you also are gonna get into this. The most successful setup includes a laptop, an HDMI cable, one of the mini projectors recommended by the group, and a sturdy and flat surface to project onto, and somewhere to mount your projector. So we’re gonna go through each one of those requirements and explain it a little bit more.

Caroline: Yeah, so a laptop computer is recommended because it has more capabilities than a phone or a tablet. Older computers might have compatibility issues and desktop computers aren’t portable. So, there are some people who use their phones to connect their projectors, but it takes a few extra steps, and you might run into compatibility issues between certain phones and certain projectors. We’re gonna link a guide to using your phone for projector sewing in the show notes so you can take a look and see if that’s the right choice for you. But generally speaking, a laptop computer is highly recommended.

Helen: And an HDMI cable is preferable to a wireless connection simply because it’s more reliable. Just ask anyone who’s tried and failed to connect to a printer wirelessly, a Bluetooth speaker. I mean, they work. When they work, it’s great. When they don’t work, it’s annoying. So if you just plug it in, then you have that stable connection.

Caroline: Totally. And there are several lists of sewing-friendly projectors online. The right projector for you is gonna depend on your space and your type of sewing. For example, people who sew full-size garments are gonna want a bigger image area than people who are sewing kids’ clothes, or bags, or stuffed animals.

Helen: There are two main types of projectors that people use for sewing, and those are ultra short throw projectors and mini projectors. And I also wanted to say here that, when we were researching this episode, I felt a little bit silly because, in my mind, I had just been imagining that, in order to do projector sewing, you had to mount your projector on the ceiling, period. But that’s not the case. You can project on an angle from a shelf or tripod. Sometimes people just prop their projector up on a stack of books on the table, and if it has that short throw, you’re actually able to project at an angle and still get a flat projection. So that’s pretty cool.

Caroline: Yeah, it’s pretty trippy. I was also surprised by that. Okay, so regarding the two different types of projectors, ultra short throw projectors are useful if you have less than 62 inches of distance from the ceiling to the cutting mat. So that’s just over five feet or 1.5 meters. They are able to project clearly over a shorter distance, and these ones range in price from around $50 to over $1000. However, there are a lot of used ones available on eBay for lower prices. And keep in mind that if you need to replace the bulb, unfortunately they run from about $100 to $150. Ultra short throw projectors are also good for sewists who don’t want to mount them permanently on their ceiling or wall, ‘cause they can be set on the same table that you’re cutting on, or on a shelf or stool nearby, on a tripod. However, you will have to recalibrate the projector every time you move it, so pay attention to how long a projector takes to calibrate when you’re shopping for one. Some can take up to eight hours to calibrate, but others are ready in like 10 to 15 minutes.

Helen: Yeah, there’s such a wide range of equipment out there, so it’s definitely one of those things you wanna do your research on. Or if you have one of those tech-savvy individuals in your house who’s really good at that kind of stuff, you could put them onto it. I know that’s what I would do.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Be like, “Research this for me and tell me which one I should get.” The other type of projector, which is more popular and more affordable, is the mini projector. This kind costs around $100 to $200. These are the kind that you can use if you have at least 62 inches of distance between the mount and the cutting mat. They need to be mounted, so if you don’t want to put holes in your ceiling or wall or have your projector out permanently, this one might not be for you. However, mounting the projector is a big pro because it means that you’ll only need to calibrate it once when you put it up. And that’s a pretty big benefit. They’re also really small and they range in size. Like, I saw ones that are like three inches cubed and ones that are like the size of a printer. Like, huge range here.

Caroline: Even with the ultra short throw projectors, I saw some really cute small ones. And some larger ones. So yeah, they all are a big range.

Helen: Yeah. And there’s so many examples out there of setups and advice. Like, lots of people will be like, “Just get this one.” And I think you could easily follow one of those example setups that you can find online and you’d probably be happy with it.

Caroline: Yeah, totally. Okay. So the reason you need a sturdy flat surface is because, if the surface moves around easily, or if it’s higher on one end than the other, or if you use a higher surface on one day and a lower surface on the next day, the image of the pattern is gonna get distorted. So a softer surface, like a bed, is not a good choice. Most people use a table to cut, but there are some people who use the floor so that they can get that longer distance from the projector. All I’m gonna say is, those people must have really good joints and core strength, because cutting on the floor, it’s not for me.

Helen: I’ve done it. It’s really hard, but sometimes that’s all you’ve got. And let’s be real. This, the floor is a sturdy surface. The floor is not going anywhere, so that’s a surface you can really rely on. So it has that going for it. The last thing you need is somewhere to put the projector. So if you’re using a mini projector, like we said, you’ll need to mount it on your wall or ceiling. Typically, the ceiling directly over the cutting surface is the best place to mount it. There are a bunch of mounts you can buy, including one called THE Mount that was designed by projector sewists for projector sewists. So that’s pretty cool. And if you’re using a short throw projector, you can either put it on a stable surface that’s slightly higher than your cutting surface or you can mount it. There’s a great article on the Love Notions blog about unconventional projector setups which is very inspiring. Lots of cool pictures of people’s sewing rooms and how they made it work. It seems like there’s tons of ways to make projector sewing work for you, even if you don’t have a dedicated or perfect sewing space.

Caroline: Yes. Okay. So let’s say that you’ve got everything you need for your setup and now you just need to get your pattern ready. Some indie pattern companies make projector files. There’s actually a spreadsheet with lots of info about which ones offer them on the Projectors for Sewing Facebook Group. Here are some companies making projector files that you’ll probably recognize: so, we make them at BF patterns for our newer patterns, Closet Core, Daughter Judy, Ellie and Mac, Made for Mermaids, Named, Papercut, Seamwork, Sew House Seven, and Sew Liberated. Some companies only make projector files for their new patterns, so you’ll have to take a look. And then other companies have gone back and made them for their back catalog. So definitely check the pattern’s info before you buy and make sure it has that projector file available if you want it. The advantage of using specifically designed projector files is that they are continuous rather than split over several pages. They also have layers that you can turn on and off so that you’re only projecting your size. And all the pieces are lined up with the grain line in the same direction so that you don’t need to flip your fabric around if you’re using a directional print. They also usually have thicker lines and larger text. And because cutting on the fold can be inaccurate with a projection, they include full pattern pieces and mirrored pieces, too.

Helen: Yeah, that’s pretty cool. So if you have, like, a front facing piece, it will include the mirror of that piece as well. So you have two front facing pieces, but they’re mirrored, and that way you don’t have to mess around with the pattern when you’re projecting it. Very handy.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: You don’t have to use projector-specific pattern files. You can also use A0 PDF patterns. These are also known as copyshop or large format patterns. The best A0 patterns are the ones where you can turn on and off the size layers. That spreadsheet we mentioned also includes a bunch of pattern companies with layered A0 files and our company, Helen’s Closet, is one of them. We haven’t made the leap to projector files yet, although it is on my radar. I hear you. But I haven’t gone back in the back catalog and done that yet. So for now, we have our A0 patterns, which do have that layering function.

Caroline: Mmhmm. And a little tip for you: if your pattern files aren’t layered, you can lay a piece of white paper right in front of where you’re cutting so that you can see the lines better. You’re not actually gonna end up cutting the paper, you’re just using it to see the lines, because it’s hard to see them on darker or patterned fabrics.

Helen: Right? It’s hard to see them even when you just print them out on paper sometimes. I can’t imagine seeing them projected by light. So having those, like, thicker lines, I’m sure, makes a big difference. I’ve also seen projector files that have different colours, which can be helpful as well. Something that’s a little bit easier to see. If you wanna use patterns that are formatted for printer paper, such as A4 patterns, you will need to assemble the pattern digitally before you can project it. And this is actually possible. There’s a few options for how to do that, but one of the best was designed by someone in the projector sewing community, and it’s called Pattern Projector. It’s a free web-based app, and it does more than just help you stitch together PDF pages.

Caroline: Yes. I was pretty impressed when I saw someone using this free program because it does so much. It answered so many of my questions. So this program can help you calibrate your pattern to an accurate scale. You can widen the lines of the pattern so that they’re easier to see. You can zoom in on text. You can rotate or flip your pattern pieces so that you don’t need to move your fabric around. So this is really great If you’re using an A0 file. You can invert the colours of your patterns so that you can see it better. So the lines will be white rather than black. There’s even more functionality in this. So if you are wanting to get into this and you need a free resource, I think this is a really great program to play around with.

Helen: Yeah, it’s so cool. I watched someone, as well, bring it into the program and with the A4 sheets, it was all lined up, except there were these, like, one inch gaps in between everything, and you can just close those gaps. Like, you just click a button and it snaps it together, which is so cool.

Caroline: It’s pretty magical.

Helen: Yeah, I was very impressed. And it’s free. We love free.

Caroline: We love free. Yeah.

Helen: There are other software options available. One is Project & Cut, which offers a free trial and then it’s a one-time cost of $20, so it’s very affordable. It has a lot of the same features as Pattern Projector, except the ability to stitch PDFs, like, to stitch the pages together. But some people do find it easier to use than Pattern Projector if you’re doing, like, your A0 files.

Caroline: Another option is to just keep it simple by using free online tools like Adobe Reader and PDF Stitcher. If you wanna make alterations to your pattern, you will need another software, though. So we’re gonna lay out a few popular options for that.

Helen: Yeah, exactly. This is like taking the pattern into a totally other program so that you can mess with it. So you can, like, tweak the lines, you know, grade between sizes, maybe even do some pattern adjusting, add length, things like that. You can do that stuff digitally. It does take some learning.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Ask me how I know. I mean, I’ve been doing patterns for 10 years now and I’m still learning things about designing digital patterns and how to do it. So yeah, it’s very fun and it’s interesting, but it is challenging as well. It’s not necessarily something that’s the easiest thing to do, but if you love this kind of stuff, you might really enjoy it. So Inkscape is a free open source vector graphics editor. There’s Affinity Designer, which is kind of similar to Inkscape, but with a one-time cost. We’ve got Adobe Illustrator, which is what I use, and that’s part of the Creative Cloud. It’s subscription based, very powerful vector graphics editor. This is the most expensive choice unless you already have a subscription to Creative Cloud for some other reason, like you have Photoshop or something like that.

Caroline: There are also a bunch of tutorials online for using these software programs to alter your pattern digitally, so you can just search for pattern alterations with the name of the program you’re using and you’ll find them.

Helen: Another option for making fit adjustments, alterations to your pattern is to just project your pattern onto paper. Then you trace it out on the paper. You make your alterations on the paper pieces just like you would if you were using a paper pattern. And it will still save you time because you still don’t have to print or assemble lots of little pages.

Caroline: Yeah, and just a little note: there are tutorials for digitizing paper patterns out there. So if you wanted to make adjustments on paper, you could change them back into projector files. You can also use these techniques to digitize vintage patterns or self-drafted ones. That’s just a little bonus tip there. This was one of the, like, roadblocks in my mind is, like, I’m somebody who makes a lot of adjustments to patterns. And so, to me, if I’m tracing it onto paper and then I’m just gonna have to then cut the pattern out of paper and not use my projector to cut my fabric, it felt like this, like, extra step, this extra roadblock. But if you’re someone who doesn’t have to make a lot of adjustments or if your adjustments are really simple or if you’re really interested in learning digital pattern drafting and fitting and adjustments, then you can kind of go into that world and learn more about it and maybe do everything digitally. I think that could be really cool and I think it could work.

Helen: I also think, if you’re a bit of a adjustment rebel, which I can be sometimes… if I’m making something that I feel like is gonna be a one-off project, like it’s not necessarily something I’m gonna make again and again, I will just, like, cut down to the lengthen/shorten line and then pull my pattern over an inch and then keep cutting. Like, I make those kind of cheater adjustments. Or I’ll, like, grade out by just, like, cutting it a little bigger in this area. And I’m not necessarily, like, doing it methodically. It’s very loosey-goosey, very intuitive. So if you’re that kind of sewist, I also think it could be fun ’cause you just project it on and then you’re like, “Oh, I’m just gonna make this area a little longer or bigger” or whatever. And you can get away with that, for sure.

Caroline: It’s so true, like, just grading between sizes or adding a little bit here or there, I think you can totally do it on the fly, especially if you’re just doing that pattern once. To me, if you’re, like, having to make it again, I’m like, but how are you gonna remember what you did and exactly how, but…

Helen: It’s true, yeah. You need to make notes if you think you’re gonna make it again. I would love to hear from any projector sewists out there who do make a lot of adjustments. Like, if you’re making, regularly making full bust adjustments, full seat adjustments, tummy adjustments, those kinds of things, like, what is your process like? Do you still feel like the projector sewing setup is an advantage to you?

Caroline: Yeah, I think it’s that, that’s the thing is, those adjustments that require that, like, slash and spread, the adding length, but only in one part, you know, like, I think those are the ones that would be really difficult to do digitally unless you’re very skilled. But I would love to hear differently. I want, convince me, convince me it’s possible.

Helen: Okay. Well, with that in mind, I think we should walk through the process of actually using the projector to cut out the pattern. So first, turn on your projector. Make sure it’s plugged in, turn it on, and make sure it’s calibrated. The calibration is pretty important. You can skip it if your projector and cutting surface haven’t moved since the last time you used them. But if you think they’ve moved at all, you gotta recalibrate.

Caroline: Yeah. It’s one of those, like, measure twice cut once situations. Like, if you’re not sure, just check. Just make sure.

Helen: Exactly. You don’t wanna waste your time

Caroline: Next up, you’re gonna connect your laptop, phone, or tablet to your projector. An HDMI cable is gonna give you the least headaches. You can get an HDMI adapter if you’re using a phone or tablet. I will say, I watched a couple videos with folks who were using Airplay. So they had, like, a mini projector or short throw projector, and it actually just connected digitally. And I know we said that doesn’t always work, but it seemed to work well for some people. So if you’re wanting to try that, I think there are definitely options out there.

Helen: Totally. It’s, it’s a lot more futuristic, that’s for sure.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: I don’t want a big HDMI cable running through my sewing space, either, but sometimes it’s just easier that way. You’re gonna wanna share your screen to your projector. And then you open your pattern files in the software that you’ve chosen, like Adobe Reader, Pattern Projector or Project and Cut. Check that the scale of your pattern is correct. And then you can lay out your fabric and start cutting.

Caroline: Okay. This all seems really exciting and there are definitely a lot of benefits to a projector setup. What, do I sound skeptical?

Helen: “This all seems really exciting…”

Caroline: No. Like, it does. I get it. I get the appeal.

Helen: It is exciting in that it’s, like I said, it’s futuristic! I don’t know. I think it’s really, like, cool, and I’m excited by just the idea of being able to project patterns everywhere. That’s, like, the keen sewist in me, I think.

Caroline: Yeah, and I, and I think, not to, like, keep beating a dead horse, but I think, like, the hardest part is probably the setup, like the calibration and the, the getting the thing mounted and the figuring out how this is gonna work in your space. And like once you’ve done that part, I think that the rest is probably really smooth sailing and really exciting and, and futuristic and fun. But like, I can imagine that first initial, like, I’m unboxing this projector. I’m figuring out where the heck I’m gonna put it. I’m figuring out how it’s gonna work with my table and the, all the different things like that would be the most intimidating part. So once you get past that, you’re golden.

Helen: It’s so true. And if you’re not really a tech-savvy person, you don’t consider yourself a tech-savvy person, this might not be for you. Because it might just be more frustration than it’s worth. But let’s get into some pros and cons because there are benefits and there are drawbacks. So the biggest pro of projector sewing is that you save time on printing and assembling patterns. This does take quite a while, especially if it’s a large pattern and you’re printing the A4 and you’re taping it all together. If this is the step that stops you from sewing, then projector sewing might be the perfect thing for you. Some people just really dislike this part of it.

Caroline: Okay, a con is that projecting patterns requires a lot more technical knowledge than using paper patterns. It can be simple, as a lot of projector sewing materials say. However, there are also a lot of articles about troubleshooting, learning to use software, and other issues that make me think that it’s not quite as simple as they make it sound. But if you’re enthusiastic about tech, it probably won’t be too difficult for you. This is hilarious, Helen, ’cause the way we’ve written this, you’re gonna be saying all the pros, and I’m gonna be saying all the cons.

Helen: It’s really making you sound skeptical.

Caroline: So it’s just emphasizing our own personal positions on the topic.

Helen: I know. I do think we should reiterate that Caroline’s not against projector sewing.

Caroline: No, I’m really not. I’m really not. I think it’s really cool and I, actually, I would try it. I’m just, I’m in the camp of feeling like…anyways, we’re gonna talk about this later. Let’s continue. Let’s continue.

Helen: I think this comes back to what we were saying earlier about like, if, if tech is not really your jam, then you know, it might just be a little bit annoying for you to try to set it up. But another pro is that you might save money. It seems like, on average, people spend between $100 and $300 on their projector setups. So if you already have an inkjet printer, you’re paying about $3 to print, say, a 25 page pattern at home, if you’re counting the ink and the paper. Obviously there’s different printers out there and stuff, so that number varies, but just a ballpark. So let’s say you spend about $150 on your projector setup. Then you would need to use the projector for about 50 patterns before it paid for itself. If you get your PDF patterns printed at copyshops, it’ll pay for itself a lot quicker. Let’s say you spend about $15 per pattern at the copyshop. It would only take about 10 patterns before the projector setup paid for itself. And obviously, the less you spend on your projector setup, the sooner you’re gonna be recuperating that cost by using it. So it really depends on how much you sew and how much you hate taping together patterns.

Caroline: I also think, like, time is money, right? So if you’re someone who’s gonna have to, like, spend a ton of time making these digital adjustments ’cause you don’t know how to do it, but you’re really fast at doing that on paper, you might wanna weigh that as well. Just keeping in mind that it might not save time, but it might also save time.

Helen: It saves time if you’re taping it together, potentially,

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Like, over time.

Caroline: Yeah.

Yeah. Taping together a tiled PDF pattern…wouldn’t wish it on my worst enemy.

Helen: I was just about to say the opposite. I kind of low-key enjoy that part of it.

Caroline: Oh, Helen, no way.

Helen: I don’t hate it. I don’t know. It takes, it can take, you know, half an hour, maybe an hour if it’s a huge pattern. But, like, I’m in my sewing space. I got my podcast. I’m still doing something with my hands.

Caroline: You must be really fast. I, there was one video I was listening to where the person was like, “It takes me three days to tape together a tiled pattern.”

Helen: With no sleeping or anything?

Caroline: Like, if you’re doing it in short bursts, like, if you’re just like, “I just have the evening, I have, like, an hour each night to sew,” I could see that. I could see that.

Helen: I think that’s the thing, is like, sewing time is precious, for sure, and a lot of people don’t have a ton of it, so if it’s, like we said, stopping you from doing the project because there’s this hurdle of preparing the pattern, the idea of just turning on your computer and your projector and just like cutting the fabric is very enticing and very, very cool.

Caroline: And futuristic.

Helen: Very futuristic. Very cool.

Caroline: Another pro is that you will use less paper. So you can just project onto the fabric and start cutting. You don’t have to worry about storing paper patterns. You can potentially reduce your environmental impact, especially if you buy a secondhand projector. So that’s really cool. Personally, the less paper, in terms of physical space in my sewing room, is appealing to me ’cause I have so many patterns that I’m trying to store and sometimes I’ll outgrow them or I’ll not be into them anymore, and then I have to, like, get rid of all this paper and it’s just, like, a whole other thing, you know, outside of the sewing that I want to do. So not having to deal with that would be nice.

Helen: Yeah, I totally agree about that. Storing paper patterns is a pain.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Another con is that you have to figure out your setup. So for people with a dedicated sewing space, that might not be a big deal, but a lot of sewists don’t have that, so they’ll have to figure out how to set things up using a dining table, a laundry room, a spare bedroom, something like that. So It’s not impossible. There are some really creative setups out there. But it’s something to consider when you’re thinking about whether or not you wanna get into it. It’s just like, does this work in my space?

Caroline: Okay. One pro that I noticed when I was researching is that because you’re projecting, you can easily transfer markings onto your fabric. So, like, one of the most annoying things for me when I’m cutting out a project is, after I cut it out, marking all my darts, marking all my little tailor’s tacks or welt pocket markings, like, the things that are sort of floating in the middle of the pattern piece that you have to either cut through your paper to mark it, or you have to stick a pin in and make sure you’re lining it up correctly. That is super easy if you’re projecting, ’cause you’re just seeing that and you can mark it with chalk right on your piece as you’re cutting. And there’s no, like, paper in between the fabric and the pattern markings, you know?

Helen: Yeah, it would save me from, like, punching holes in my pattern, which I do regularly.

Caroline: Me too. Just, like, stabbing it with a pencil so you can get through and mark your dart point? Yes.

Helen: Okay. Caroline, the time has come. I’m curious, are you gonna get into projector sewing? What are your thoughts after researching this episode?

Caroline: Okay. So I think we’ve talked about experimenting with this at the office for BF Patterns because we have a big table, we have, like, ceiling beams that we could mount a projector on. Our patternmaker, Jenna, has, is, like, familiar with it. She’s taken a course on projector sewing. She’s interested. Like, I could see it working for BF Patterns also just because of the amount of samples and changes we make to patterns and that whole, like, patternmaking process. For me, personally, at this point in time, and I’m not saying I won’t be convinced after I read all the comments that I’m sure we’re gonna get on Instagram about this, but I don’t think it’s for me right now. And I, you can call me stubborn, but I am happy with my process right now. Like, I like my A0 copyshop printout. I’m super lucky that we have a copyshop printer at Blackbird and I have access to it, so it’s easy for me to print out a pattern and take it home and use it. I just, like, I already have such limited time to sew and limited, like, motivation to sew with all the other hobbies that I have that, like, I don’t wanna learn a new method to get to the end point, you know?

Helen: Okay, Grandma.

Caroline: I know, I get it. I understand. I, and I don’t wanna sound negative ’cause I think it’s really cool and I love, like, I fully support people getting into it. I get it. I just don’t know that it’s for me right now. I also almost always make adjustments to patterns and I don’t really want to mess around with figuring out how to do, like, digital full bust adjustments. And I think, if I’m having to trace the pattern, make the adjustments on paper anyways, and then cut out with paper, to me, like, what’s the point? You know? I’m sure there, I’m sure there’s people that are gonna argue that there is a point, but I haven’t found it.

Helen: You’re not convinced. I get it. I also am, I’m gonna say, like 60-40 in favour because, like you were saying, I’m excited about the possibilities of using it in a work-related context. I do have digital patternmaking skills. I can easily manipulate patterns to be whatever I want. So I have, already, the software skills. I have, also, the perfect setup. Stable table, high ceiling. Could easily pop a projector up there. I’m sure Sam would be happy to set it up for me too, so I don’t even have to do that part. It would save me the printing costs when we’re doing our pattern development, ‘cause I currently send it off to the copyshop to get printed. So I do see a lot of benefits there and I think, in a work context, it would be really cool. And then, you know, I work from home, so then that’s also my personal sewing setup. So bonus, I’ve already got it at home. So I could really see the benefit. And as a pattern designer, I also think it’s something that’s really exciting in the sewing community right now, I think something that people are intrigued by, and I want to support them in that. So I do think we’ll probably be updating our patterns, eventually, with those projector files. And I’d like to fully understand it by actually experiencing it myself, to make sure that we do a good job with that. So those are the pros. I am a little wary of the annoyance of repositioning the fabric.

Caroline: Yeah, we haven’t talked about this yet ’cause it’s in our little Q and A at the end.

Helen: Yeah, so we’ll get into it. But I really like laying all the fabric out. I have a big table, so I can actually do this, but I can lay the whole fabric out and then I can lay almost the whole pattern out a lot of the time. And, like, position it all. And I love that process. It’s like Tetris, right?

Caroline: Yes.

Helen: I’ll squeeze this in here and make this work over here. And like, I like laying it all out, putting all my pattern weights on, and then just cutting it all out at once. It really helps me visualize it, make sure I have enough fabric. But again, that’s, like, me with my setup. Having the table to be able to do that is really beneficial. And I do like making adjustments to my patterns, so, part of me is like, I already know how to do that on paper, but I could switch to doing that digitally, which would be really cool. I do think, like, the technical aspects of it don’t intimidate me. I’m more just, like, a little hesitant because I enjoy the paper. Like, I like the paper pattern pieces. To me, that’s sewing, that’s a part of sewing, you know? But I gotta, I gotta broaden my mind.

Caroline: Yeah. You made a great point when we were chatting earlier, like pre-recording, about how projector sewing almost feels like ages ago when people were getting into PDF patterns versus tissue and, like, there was definitely, like, people in the sewing world that were like, “I love my tissue patterns. I’m never doing digital. I’m never buying a PDF pattern.”

Helen: Yeah, “Why would I do that? It’s expensive…”

Caroline: “Why would I do that?” Like, don’t break what’s work, like, yeah. You know, but, or don’t break what’s working. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, or whatever. Whatever that saying is.

Helen: Yeah, it’s true. And there’s still people out there who swear by tissue and that’s fine. Like, that’s great. It’s really whatever works for you. But it does feel like a similar kind of moment where it’s like, things are moving in a new direction. And there’s some folks, perhaps Caroline included, who are like, “I’m gonna stay right here.”

Caroline: Yeah, I’m good here. But I do love that it’s just, like, one more way to make sewing accessible to people. It’s one more way to approach it. It’s gonna work for some people way better than the other ways that are out there, and I love that if it’s gonna attract more people to sewing.

Helen: Totally.

Caroline: Yeah. Okay. Before we go, we wanna answer a few common questions about projector sewing. So one of those questions is: do you need to have low light to use projectors?

Helen: Lower light is definitely better. You will need to be able to block out the natural light in whatever room you set it up in. Getting a brighter projector can definitely help. So when you’re shopping, look for the brightness level in lumens. And keep in mind, the brighter the projector, often the more expensive it is. But you are gonna wanna dim the lights so you can see what you’re doing.

Caroline: Okay. You kind of alluded to this earlier, but when you’re cutting out the pattern, do you just move the fabric to be under the projected area for every piece, or do you move the projection to a different area of the fabric?

Helen: Okay. Yeah, so once the projector is calibrated, like we said, it’s very important that you don’t move it and you don’t move your surface. But you are gonna move your fabric to be under the projected area. Like a grid you’re gonna put it on, under. And some projector sewists create a cutting layout using their software. So they’re customizing the way the pattern pieces are laid out and then projecting that onto the fabric. So they might be able to cut more than one piece at a time. Most people cut one piece at a time by scrolling the pattern file, finding the piece they wanna cut, and then positioning the piece in the projected area and then moving the fabric to be where you need it to be to cut that piece out.

So moving fabric is involved. And I don’t like moving my fabric because I painstakingly lay it out. I like cutting on the fold as well, which we’re also gonna talk about. And so I like to lay it all out and make sure it’s all straight and everything, especially if I’m working with, like, a rayon or something shifty. I don’t necessarily wanna be picking it up and sliding it around a ton. It’s not impossible. Like, it’s totally doable. It’s really not a big deal. But it’s just not my preference, you know? Once I lay it out, it’s done. I want it to stay.

Caroline: Yeah. And you can, like, at first, I, I, this was really hard for me to wrap my head around, but when I actually saw a video of someone scrolling…so once you’re projecting your image, you can move those pieces around on your cutting surface, like, on that projected surface. So if you’ve laid out your fabric on grain, let’s say you position a piece right in the corner, you can then position the next piece next to it and kind of, it’s not, you’re not moving. Yeah, you can still play Tetris. It’s just that you can’t, like, lay out everything first unless you’re using one of those programs to create a cutting layout for yourself based on the width of your fabric. The chances are, too, like, your projection is not going to be big enough to fill the full width of your fabric, especially because you’re cutting flat. You can’t cut on fold. Or it’s not recommended to cut on fold. So there’s gonna have to be some fabric movement happening. But you can still, like, cut a bunch of pieces in that area by moving, like, scrolling that image around and then, like, move your fabric, cut a few more pieces. So it’s not, like, every single piece you’re having to move your fabric to, like, go to the spot where it’s being projected. There’s a little bit of control there, but it’s not the same as, like, if you’re just grabbing a paper pattern and shifting it around, you know?

Helen: Laying it all out. Yeah. Yeah. And small, the smaller the project, the easier it is to cut it all out, um, in one projection or make those custom layouts, um, which could be fun. Like I said, I do love the Tetris part of it, and if I could Tetris digitally, that would be cool.

Caroline: Yeah. So true.

Helen: Okay. What about our scissors people? Can you use scissors with a projector?

Caroline: Oh yeah, we know those people are out there. We are rotary cutter people, but…

Helen: Hey! Lisa, our assistant Lisa, is a scissors person, okay?

Caroline: No, that’s true. That’s true. Okay. Well, if you are a scissors person, you’re probably not gonna love projector sewing because rotary cutters are the easiest to use with a projector because the fabric doesn’t move at all while you cut. The risk with scissors is that you lift and shift the fabric while you’re cutting, and then the lines move out of place. However, with a little bit of practice, you can learn how to cut accurately with scissors. So it’s not impossible. It’s just not necessarily the easiest way to go about it.

Helen: Yeah. I imagine you have to keep them real tight against the cutting surface and cut small bits at a time to make that work. Another thing to think about when you’re picturing yourself cutting something out with a projector is: what about the shadows? Do the shadows from your body and your hands block the area you’re trying to project?

Caroline: So it’s all about hand positioning. From what we’ve seen, people keep their hand back a little bit and let the rotary cutter lead so they can see. I’ve also seen advice like, “Don’t use one of those ergonomic rotary cutters where there’s no handle.” It’s just, um, you’re kind of gripping sideways on, like, a little…

Helen: It’s a handle. It’s a side handle.

Caroline: It’s a handle, I guess, but yeah, it’s just sticking out in the different direction so that your wrist is placed more ergonomically. So, I mean, con; let’s throw in a con. Not the most ergonomic way to cut. Even though you’re using a rotary cutter, if you’re having to be careful about how you’re positioning your hand, I imagine it’s probably not being positioned in the most ergonomic way.

Helen: Yeah, you probably have to train yourself not to lean over the projector, too, and make sure that you’re, like, letting the light shine in. But I mean, it’ll be obvious when you can see it and when you can’t. So I bet you learn pretty quick how to do that.

Caroline: Yeah. Okay. How about grain? How can you see the grain of the fabric?

Helen: So for a lot of projects, you can just look at the selvage and make sure that the grain lines on the pattern pieces are going parallel to it. If you’re using a shifty fabric or cutting on the bias, you can put painter’s tape on your fabric in the direction of the grain so that you can see it while you’re using the projector.

Caroline: Okay. And if you already have a projector, can you just use that for sewing, Helen?

Helen: This is my question because I do already have a projector. We have one for watching movies. It’s very old and loud…

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: And big and clunky and I’m not sure, but I am probably gonna start with that one and experiment with that and see if I can get it up on my ceiling. So the answer is kind of, maybe, maybe not. For sewing it has to have a short throw, meaning it can create a clear image in a short distance. So for a conference room or home movie projector, that might not work depending on what kind of projector it is. It also has to have a resolution of at least 720p. And there’s other benefits and drawbacks to different projectors out there, which you can research when you’re getting into it. But it might work and it might not work. So we’ll see.

Caroline: Okay. Well, I’m excited to hear how it works for you. Okay. If a pattern doesn’t fit in the projector area, what do you do? So, for example, if your projector area is smaller, let’s say, and then your pattern piece extends beyond that projected area, what do you do?

Helen: Like a long pair of pants or something?

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: So you can trace the pattern piece onto paper first, and then you have a paper pattern that you can use to cut your fabric. Or you can do it all on the projector by doing the following: you cut the top part of the pattern piece, make a few line markings on the pattern file using your software near where you stop cutting, mark those lines on your fabric, then scroll the projector file up and shift the fabric over so that the lines you drew on the fabric are matching the ones on the pattern file. And then you finish cutting out your piece. This sounds really similar to what I used to do when I cut out everything on, like, a two foot by three foot mat.

Caroline: I was gonna say, I do this all the time when I’m cutting at home.

Helen: Yeah. You have to slide things over and, like, make it fit on the mat. So it’s basically that, but digital.

Caroline: Yeah, not too bad. Okay, so there are a ton of cool tips and tricks and strategies just like that one on the internet. Here are some of the best resources that we found for sewing with projectors, and again, we’re gonna link all of this up in the show notes. So that’s the place to go to get all these links.

Helen: The Projectors for Sewing Facebook Group is a great place to learn. They have a bunch of resources linked in the “Features” section on the page. It’s a private group, so you have to join to be able to see everything, but everyone’s really excited and supportive in that group, so definitely check that out.

Caroline: Projectorsewing.com has a lot of info, including a guide for beginners, projector comparisons, and tutorials for Adobe, Inkscape, and Affinity Designer.

Helen: Sashasewist.info has a quick start guide, a very helpful list of top tips, product recommendations, and more.

Caroline: And Dailey Sews & Stuff has a pattern projecting series on YouTube.

Helen: There’s so much out there and, like we said, we’re gonna link it all up if you wanna take a deep dive. I project that some of our listeners will be interested.

Caroline: I also project that some of our listeners are gonna roast me in the comments for hating on projectors. So like…

Helen: No! Be nice to Caroline!

Caroline:I swear, I love it. I love it.

Helen: It’s fine to love it, and it’s fine to not love it, okay? We’re all sewing…

Caroline: It’s not for everyone.

Helen: We’re doing our thing. We would love to actually hear from you positively about your experiences and your perspectives and whether you love projector sewing and what you love about it and how it’s changed your life. I definitely wanna hear from you and we can share that later on the podcast or on social media. So let’s talk about it. Let’s get into it.
And we can’t wait to hear from you.

Caroline: Yeah, I don’t think our discussion of projector sewing is gonna end here, so we’ll definitely be talking more about this in future episodes and I really look forward to hearing everyone’s, uh, feedback and thoughts on the topic. That’s it for today’s episode of Love to Sew. You can find me, Caroline, at Blackbird fabrics and BF Patterns and Helen at Helen’s Closet Patterns and Cedar Quilt Co. And we’re recording in beautiful British Columbia, Canada.

Helen: You can support Love to Sew and get access to bonus content by subscribing on Patreon or Apple Podcasts. You even get access to the back catalog of bonus episodes, and that’s so, so, so many hours of Love to Sew! Go to patreon.com/lovetosew or check out our podcast page on Apple Podcasts for more info.

Caroline: You can head to lovetosewpodcast.com to find our show notes. They’re filled with links and pictures from this episode. If you’d like to get in touch with us, leave us a message at 1-844-SEW-WHAT. That’s 1-844-739-9428. Or send us an email at hello@lovetosewpodcast.com

Helen: Thanks to our amazing podcast team. Lisa Ruiz is our creative assistant and Jordan Moore of The Pod Cabin is our editor. And thank you for listening. We will talk to you next week.

Caroline: Bye.

Helen: Bye bye.

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