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Transcript:

Helen: We are recording today on the traditional, ancestral, and unceded territories of the Coast Salish and Kwakwaka’wakw peoples, including Tsleil-Waututh, Squamish, Musqueam, and K’ómoks first nations.

Caroline: Hello and welcome to Love to Sew. I’m Caroline, the owner of Blackbird Fabrics and BF Patterns.

Helen: And I’m Helen, the designer behind Helen’s Closet Patterns and Cedar Quilt Co.

Caroline: We’re two sewing buds who love to sew, and it’s all we ever talk about.

Helen: This episode is all about sewing garments, bags, and accessories for trips. We talk about the best fabrics, how to layer, and how to design a travel capsule. Plus, indie patterns for clothes that travel well, tips for sewing travel bags, and our own memories of sewing for travel.

Caroline: If you love to sew, this is your show.

Ooh, Helen!

Helen: Ooh, Caroline!

Caroline: Ooh Helen! I’m excited for this episode.

Helen: Me too. This one’s right up your alley in particular, because I know you love to sew for travel. And I love to pack for travel. So I think, together, we’ll have a lot to say on the subject.

Caroline: And we recently went on a little trip together, so I feel like we have some fresh experiences of packing and travelling and sewing for travel.

Helen: We can call BS on any misinformation. I’d be like, “Yeah, I totally travel light and I’m super organized!!

Caroline: Yeah, right. Oh my gosh. Yeah, I have a lot to say about that. But before we get into it, we wanted to remind all of our lovely listeners that the best way to support Love to Sew is by joining us on Patreon or Apple Podcasts Subscriptions. Over there, you get access to bonus content every month, and we have so much fun catching up with you all on the more casual bonus episodes that we do monthly. And it really means a lot if you’re able to support us, even if it’s just for a month or two. You can subscribe, catch up on the episodes, unsubscribe. We understand. That’s okay. We appreciate it.

Helen: Yeah. And if supporting us is not in the cards for you right now, that’s also totally fine. Thank you so much for listening and cheering us on. And we hope to see you over on Patreon and Apple Podcasts.

Caroline: Yes. Alright, let’s start off this episode with a little bit of feedback, and this message is from Lexi. “Hi there! I’m a new sewist and have been catching up on back episodes of the podcast. While listening to the Sewing Motivation episode, I thought other sewists might benefit from a habit I started when I learned to paint decades ago. It’s based on a book called The Artists’s Way and is called “morning pages” (though I don’t always do them in the morning). You take a pen and paper and stream-of-consciousness style just start writing for 3 pages. Don’t think about what you’re writing – the aim is to jot down all of the thoughts and info swirling around the front of your mind. Shopping lists, how you’re feeling, and all your random thoughts. Do not edit as you go and don’t re-read it afterwards. The point is to purge your mind of all the practical thoughts clouding your creativity and keeping you in a “blah” headspace. It really does wonders for helping me be creative and get mentally clear to invite all the sewing joy in. I thought my habit might be a helpful idea for others to follow. Love the podcast! Thank you so much!”

Helen: Thank you, Lexi! This is such a great idea. If you have a bunch of everyday problems or just everyday stuff running around your head, it’s hard to get creative sometimes. So writing it all down is one way to clear that stuff out and make room for other things, like sewing. I also think you could take this and make it, like, sewing specific, because I get overwhelmed with all the ideas I have for sewing and quilting and other projects I want to do. So writing them all down to get them out is a good strategy.

Caroline: Yes. Totally. I actually tried doing morning pages for a while, but my issue was, I’m not really a morning person. So I really like that Lexi is giving permission to not do this in the morning.

Helen: Evening pages.

Caroline: Evening pages. Night, night pages.

Helen: Yeah, which could help you sleep because it’s that same kind of thing.

Caroline: Yes.

Helen: Clear your head, right?

Caroline: Yeah, no, it’s really cool. I actually have that workbook, The Artist’s Way, and I’ve yet to read it, but I’m feeling inspired.

Helen: I feel like we read it via Lexi, you know?

Caroline: Yeah, we get the gist of it. Right? Thanks, Lexi!

Helen: Alright, next up we have a question from Sara via voicemail.

Sara: Hi, my name is Sara and I am from San Diego, California. And I am working on a project with this really cool skull lace fabric, but it has lots of holes. It’s almost like an applique, like a big skull lace applique. And I’m trying to figure out the best way to seam two pieces of this together for, like, a side seam, you know? When it has a lot of holes between the design, do you use hem tape or bias tape? You know, something that the stitches can kind of grab onto to keep these two pieces of fabric together. Thank you so much. I appreciate it. Bye!

Helen: Thank you for calling us, Sara! This project sounds really fun and spooky. I’d love to see this fabric. So if you finish the project, shoot us an email and show us. You should definitely stabilize the seams if your lace has a lot of holes like you’re describing. And one thing you could do is use strips of tulle. This would be a really low-profile option that wouldn’t be very visible. You only need enough for it to fold over once because tulle doesn’t fray. So that’s nice. And you can cut it on the straight grain because it’s stretchy. You could use bias binding in lightweight cotton or organza as well. And for straight seams that don’t want to stretch out, like shoulder seams, for example, you could use straight grain binding so there’s less wiggle room there. And you can match the colour of your binding either to the lace or to the lining. Or if there’s no lining, you could match it to your skin tone so it blends in a little bit more. Another thing is, you’ll probably want to trim down your seam allowance to a quarter inch to get it to be more low-profile. And also, before you start pinning the binding to the lace, press the lace on low heat, making sure not to stretch it out. So don’t push and pull your iron across the fabric, just lift it up and set it down over each part. And then once it looks nice and flat, you can start pinning. But those are all of our lace and lace seam tips for y’all. We wish you the best of luck with your project, Sara. We probably received this in October, so hopefully Sarah finished this spooky project in time for Halloween.

Caroline: Yeah, please update us, Sara. Alright, it’s time to get into the real topic of our show. It’s all about sewing for travel.

Helen: Okay, that sounds familiar. Haven’t we done this episode already?

Caroline: No, we have not, Helen. We made an episode called Sewing and Travel. That was about a year and a half ago.

Helen: Yes, yes, yes.

Caroline: And that one was all about sewing while travelling. And today’s episode is going to be different. It’s about sewing garments, bags, and accessories for your trip, which is, coincidentally, one of my favourite things to do.

Helen: And you have a trip coming up that I know you’re sewing for right now. So it’s very on-topic.

Caroline: Yes! I’m going to New York very soon. Okay. Let’s talk about some reasons why people sew for travel. The first one is: it gets you hyped up for the trip. Planning an outfit and imagining wearing it at your destination is so much fun. I personally get so much sewjo from it. And you can kind of loosely theme your design around the vibe of your trip. Imagine a blue and white coverup for a beach trip or a floor length satin dress for a night at the opera. I don’t know about you, but this is the main reason why I sew for travel. I just get this idea in my head, like, “I really need x thing for this trip and I don’t have it, so I must sew it,” or “I have this outfit in mind, and I just really need it,” and I’m imagining myself on my trip wearing it, and there just is no other thing to do but sew the thing.

Helen: Yeah. You, like, have to, you feel compelled.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: It’s so nice to have a vision for a project like that because we don’t always, in our everyday, have a reason to wear more specific things like this. But if you are going on a trip, then you can suddenly envision yourself wandering around a museum or lounging on the beach or doing whatever specific activity you have in mind in a specific outfit. And that’s so motivating. Another benefit is that it could give you something to talk to people about when you get there. It’s a super great way to get a conversation started. If you want to meet locals and connect, maybe with other sewists, that’d be cool.

Caroline: Mmhmm. And sewing for travel gives you something to remember later, like a pre-made souvenir. Whenever you wear that garment afterwards, you’re going to think about your trip.

Helen: Ooh, I love that. A pre-made souvenir. So smart.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: On the more practical side, sewing for travel means you can design just the right clothes for you. You can make clothes that don’t wrinkle easily. They dry quickly. They layer well. You can even make a travel capsule wardrobe so that you have lots of outfit options with just a few pieces, which is very handy.

Caroline: Yeah, I really like the idea of a travel capsule wardrobe. Like, in theory, it’s great. In practice, it’s kind of hard. But we’re going to talk about that today.

Helen: It is hard. It’s true.

Caroline: Yeah, hard to narrow it down.

Helen: Yeah. Well, and on that note, we’re going to try and cover options for both minimalist and maximalist travellers in this episode, because I don’t think there’s a right way to be. Both sides have their advantages. So if having, you know, just a few pieces for a capsule wardrobe doesn’t work for you, that’s okay.

Caroline: Thank you, Helen. I appreciate you saying that. Yeah, on the one hand, minimalist travel means that you won’t have to check any bags, which eliminates the risk of lost luggage. It also makes getting dressed easier since you have a limited number of options. However, you might have to do laundry in the middle of your trip. And if you’re travelling by car, you might not even need to worry about travelling light.

Helen: That’s true. And on the other hand, maximalist travel means you have a bunch of options, which is nice for people who love clothes, like us. And you can bring enough so that you don’t necessarily have to do laundry. You’ll have backups If you spill on yourself. You’ll have plenty of pairs of underwear. All that good stuff. And you can also bring bulkier items. However, checking luggage can be expensive. Lost luggage is a problem. Plus you’ll have a lot of stuff to keep track of on your trip. Caroline, I’m remembering specifically when we went to Camp Workroom Social and you brought two rolling suitcases and we had to navigate the, like, New York subway system with your two rolling suitcases.

Caroline: Why did I do that?

Helen: It was so funny. You, you wanted to bring a lot of stuff, clothes to wear, materials for your class. There was a lot.

Caroline: Mmhmm. Mmhmm. And it’s always, for me, there’s a bit of, like, a dilemma with packing for travel, because often I try to fit everything in a carry-on because I don’t really love to check bags. But if I don’t have the space to fit everything into a carry-on and I have to check a bag, then I don’t want to put everything I own into a checked bag and risk it getting lost. So then I also feel like I need to have a carry-on with some essentials and maybe a couple of outfits, maybe a spare change of clothes or pair of shoes. And then it’s, like, a slippery slope, because you have your checked bag and then you have a full carry-on. And then all of a sudden you’re running through the New York city airport with two suitcases, trying to find a bathroom and questioning all of your life choices.

Helen: Yes, it’s so true. I know it’s really hard. The, like, fear of lost luggage is real.

Caroline: Yeah, absolutely. Okay, Helen, how are you with packing for travel? Are you a maximalist or a minimalist? And just know I will call you out if you lie.

Helen: I’m definitely a maximalist. I love having lots of options. I love being prepared for every weather scenario in particular. I get really fixated on what the weather’s going to be like, and I don’t like being too hot or too cold. And I need, like, different shoes, depending on what the day is going to be. So I have a really hard time packing light. And even when Sam and I go on quick trips to Vancouver, our car is, like, full. Like, you know, if you have the space, you might as well put things in. Like, we’ll bring like our tower fan so that we can have a fan next to our bed that we like. You know, like, things like that. Like, it’s too much. I know.

Caroline: If there’s a car involved, it will be packed to the brim.

Helen: To the brim.

Caroline: Yeah, like, there’s no point in having any extra space in a car. Like, just bring everything you think you could possibly need.

Helen: It’s so much stuff, though. When we unpack at my parents house, they’re always like, literally, like, “What are you doing?” Like, “We have all of these things. You don’t need to bring them.”

Caroline: Oh my gosh, it’s so true.

Helen: Yeah. But I love bringing lots of clothes, in particular. And a part of that is just excitement about all the fun things that I could wear. And I do get pretty specific with my planning for my packing, where I will make a spreadsheet of all of the days on the trip. And here’s what I’m going to wear that day…

Caroline: Oh my gosh, really?

Helen: Yeah. And my plan for, like, the activities that we’re going to do that day. And then what I want to wear in the morning and in the evening, because usually there’s an outfit change. So that ends up resulting in a lot of clothes, usually.

Caroline: Yeah, on our recent trip to Portland, you did bring many different outfits and had many outfit changes. And I’m just gonna say, I tried to pack light for that trip and I, like, tried to go a little bit more in the capsule wardrobe direction and I brought a lot of pieces that would mix and match well. But then we ended up filming some content of our outfits and by, like, the last day I was like, “I don’t have anything new to wear. This is an absolute disaster. I have to rewear something. It’s gonna be in the video twice.” I just, like, I won’t do it again.

Helen: Yeah. More clothes! More clothes!

Caroline: More clothes! I was very jealous of all of your options.

Helen: I do my outfit for every day for, like, morning and evening, as I was saying. And then after I finish packing, if there’s any room, like, I’ll start throwing in, like, extra t-shirts and extra leggings and stuff so I have more options.

Caroline: Yes, yes, I was gonna say, I’m definitely a maximalist because, like, my usual experience of packing is, I pull out everything I want to pack and then I’m, like, trying to get it all into the suitcase. Then I have to edit it down a little bit to be able to fit everything. And then when I’m finished packing, I assess. Are there any nooks or crannies that I can fit more things in? And if there are, I’m shoving t-shirts, I’m shoving spare underwear, I’m packing some extra stuff if I can. Extra pair of shoes, why not? What if? Right?

Helen: What if, exactly. Extra pair of shoes is a real luxury, like, to have multiple shoe options. And then with underwear, it’s like, take the number of days for your trip and, like…

Caroline: Double it.

Helen: Triple or quadruple that. No, double’s not enough!

Caroline: Double’s not enough. Yeah.

Helen: Double is not enough. You need to triple or quadruple that number.

Caroline: I know. Like, what if you get sweaty? Like, there’s so many scenarios where you would need just backups, backups, backups, backups. Yeah.

Helen: Yeah, like, when I go back to the hotel midday to change for the next thing, I want, like, a full outfit change.

Caroline: Yeah. Oh my gosh.

Helen: This is very revealing and now I feel exposed.

Caroline: The minimalist, the minimalist packers out there are listening to this and going, “These gals!”

Helen: We should do a poll on Instagram. It’s like, “How much underwear do you bring for a 5 day trip? 5, 10, 15, 20, 25…”

Caroline: Yeah. Oh my gosh, there’s really no limit. Okay, I mean, so we’ve determined that we’re both maximalist packers. I think we should move on. We’ve come to terms with it. Let’s get into some things to think about when you’re planning your sewing for a trip, because that is what this episode is about. It’s about sewing. So let’s talk about what makes a garment good for travelling. It kind of depends on what kind of trip you’re going on, where your destination is, what kind of packer you are. But, no matter what, there are some things that are going to make packing easier.

Helen: Yeah. So first up, let’s talk about wrinkles. Making garments from wrinkle-resistant fabrics is going to save you time and trouble on your trip. Keep you looking stylish. The fabrics that hold wrinkles the least are synthetics and wool. There are ready-to-wear companies that market their merino wool garments specifically to travellers. It’s touted as one of the best travelling fabrics. Wool is odour resistant, which makes it good for multiple wears. It also dries quickly and it’s breathable. You do have to hand wash it or wash it on delicate cycle, though, and you can’t put it in the dryer. But that can work for travel because you’re probably just washing it in the sink, if anything. Nylon/wool blends are more durable than pure wools. And also, if you’ve never worn merino next to your skin, you should definitely try it out before you go on your trip, because some people do find it a little bit itchy and that might be uncomfortable. It also doesn’t have great recovery without some added spandex. So, for example, if you were going to make merino leggings, you want to look for fabric with spandex in it so it has that good recovery.

Caroline: Yeah, not all merino is created equally, like, in my experience. I’ve seen some merino that is so so soft and other merino that’s a little bit scratchier. So if you’ve, like, tried it out and you don’t love it, you can always shop around for a different supplier for your merino and see if that works for you. But also, some people are just, like, allergic to wool, so it might not be for you. A note about merino wool versus regular wool. Merino wool comes from the merino breed of sheep, and the wool has a longer staple length than most other wools, and the fibers are thinner, so together this makes merino wool yarns smoother than other wools. And that’s why merino is a good choice for garments that will be against your bare skin. With that said, if you’re sensitive to wool, you might find even merino fabrics too itchy. So if you go this route, give it a test run before you bring it on your trip.

Helen: The other fabric we mentioned is synthetics. And these are, unfortunately, not super breathable. But they also don’t hold wrinkles and they do dry quickly. And there are some technical fabrics, like moisture-wicking athletic knits, that can be sewn into pretty elegant tops and t-shirts. It could also be a nice fiber choice for dressier outfits, depending on the pattern that you’re using. And there are a lot of nice synthetic formalwear fabrics out there. So I think a Sicily Slip Dress in a poly satin print could be really cute for a dinner out while travelling. And because, you know, it’s got bare shoulders and your underarms are free, maybe the synthetic poly won’t cause you to sweat too, too much. And you can even style it for everyday wear. You could throw a button-up on and tie it at the waist. And then that fancier dress becomes a satin midi skirt, which is good for a more casual everyday outfit.

Caroline: Yeah, I’ve seen some really cute poly spandex prints, too, that I feel like could be dressed up or down really nicely. Yeah, I’m like, open up your mind, I guess. If you’re not someone who normally goes for synthetics, they can definitely work for travel and you can, if you’re sewing them, make choices about the style of garment that you’re making. So I probably wouldn’t do, like, head-to-toe poly with sleeves. I would maybe make sure you’re going with something sleeveless that you can layer cotton over or making sure you’re giving your body space to breathe a little bit.

Helen: Yeah. Or choosing that synthetic fabric for less vigorous outings, I guess. You know, sitting down at dinner versus spending four hours at an art gallery walking around, right?

Caroline: Yeah. Plant-based fabrics like cotton, rayon, linen, and silk will wrinkle more than wool or synthetics. However, they are breathable and you can find lots of options at affordable prices. The most wrinkly of these options is linen. Cotton and rayon are on the less wrinkly end. And knits in general are less wrinkly than wovens. And you can look for blends with synthetics if you want them even less wrinkly, so you kind of get a little bit from both worlds.

Helen: Yeah, and when I travel, if there’s a closet at my destination, I like to unpack and hang up all my clothes in the closet. That gives them a chance to relax. And you’d be surprised how much wrinkles will disappear with just a little bit of gravity in the closet.

Caroline: Yeah, or like, bring them into the bathroom when you’re showering and let them get a little bit steamy. That helps, too.

Helen: Yeah, that’s a great tip.

Caroline: The way you pack can also prevent wrinkles. Rolling your clothes rather than folding them makes fewer creases. Some people will make a stack of clothing and roll it into one giant cinnamon roll.

Helen: I love that.

Caroline: Wow, I’m hungry all of a sudden. Put your most wrinkle-prone garments on the outside of the roll where they’re going to get the least wrinkles.

Helen: And if you decide you do want to iron at your destination, you have options. You can check ahead of time and see if there’s going to be an ironing board where you’re staying. Conair makes a mini steamer that you can bring along. It even comes in dual voltage. Or you could bring a miniature iron. Oliso makes a really cute little one. I’ve never thought about bringing my Oliso mini iron, but I should, actually.

Caroline: Oh yeah, you have one of those. I feel like, most of the time, hotels are gonna have, like, an iron and ironing board. But hotel irons, they can be, like, not great.

Helen: Not great, yeah, you do wanna make sure…

Caroline: I’ve definitely had, like, leaky irons or irons that have, like, had weird discharge or, like, stains on them. Like, at the very least you could bring like one of those iron protector things? Like, you know, those pieces of metal that you attach to an iron, to like…

Helen: Oh, yeah. Like a fresh plate. Yeah, that’s a good idea. Or test it first before you go right to your precious shirt.

Caroline: Totally, yeah.

Helen: Another little wrinkle tip I have, and this is kind of an obvious one, but: solid colours will show wrinkles more than prints. So if you want to bring a rayon or linen thing with you, try a print instead of a solid colour. And that way the wrinkles just aren’t as obvious, especially in a really busy floral or something like that.

Caroline: So true. Quick-drying fabrics make travelling more comfortable. If you’re going to be doing a lot of walking, you’ll probably sweat a fair amount. And sometimes you get caught in wet weather as well. So wearing quick-drying clothes can mean the difference between drying off when you sit down for lunch and being damp for the rest of the day. Quick-drying clothes are also handy if you plan to wash your clothes on your trip. Many parts of the world don’t use tumble dryers regularly, so keep that in mind.

Helen: The quickest-drying fibers are synthetics, wools, and silks. And the slowest-drying are cottons, linens, and rayons. The weight of your fabric matters, too. A lightweight cotton jersey is going to dry a lot faster than, like, a 10 ounce denim or, oh my gosh, bamboo, like, sweater fleece?!

Caroline: Oh my gosh.

Helen: It dries so slowly. It’s so funny.

Caroline: I’m imagining, like, bootleg jeans in the, like, late nineties, early aughts, when you take them out in the snow or rain and, like, the water just like seeps up the back and all of a sudden the whole bottom of your jeans is wet and it never dries. Like, it just stays wet.

Helen: Oh, I’m having a pure sense memory when you’re describing that.

Caroline: Yeah. Anyone who didn’t live through that, fair warning: bootcut jeans in the winter, never a good idea.

Helen: But that doesn’t mean that you can’t wear jeans on your trip, but it might be smart to bring a mix of weights for your pants and skirts. So if it takes a while for your jeans to dry out, you can wear your lighter weight elastic waist pants in the meantime. Or, you know, if it’s, like, suitable weather, you can wear slightly cropped pants or shorts instead.

Caroline: Mmhmm. Definitely. And even if you’re a maximalist packer, it’s nice to have at least some garments that fold up small. And if you’re a minimalist packer, it’s an absolute must. So voluminous garments like full skirts and puff sleeves tops are going to take up a lot more room in your luggage than jersey tees and leggings.

Helen: And you might want to leave bulky items like big sweaters at home. Your best bet for versatility are items that layer well, anyways. So having, like, a big, bulky, chunky sweater is just going to take up a lot of room and you might not get to wear it that much.

Caroline: Yeah, and fabric weight matters here, too. A full skirt made of cotton lawn is going to take up a lot less room than one that’s made of medium-weight linen.

Helen: Once again, we’re definitely not setting rules here. We’re just talking about things you might want to keep in mind.

Caroline: Yes. Okay, let’s talk about layering. Using the example of a bulky sweater again, it’s only really usable in cold weather. But if you have a long sleeve top, a medium weight sweater, and a water resistant jacket, you can layer those and wear them in cool weather, cold weather, and cold, rainy weather.

Helen: Oh, so true. It’s nice to have a long sleeve shirt to put on under a sweater, just to beef it up and make it even warmer. So satisfying.

Caroline: Mmhmm.

Helen: And if you’re flying, you can wear your heavier stuff, like your jacket and boots, on the plane. You can always take them off and tuck them under the seat in front of you. Or roll your jacket up and use it as a pillow. But that way, those bulky things won’t be taking up space in your suitcase.

Caroline: Yeah, I definitely always wear my bulkiest jacket and my, like, boots on, on the plane.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: And then at least I can bring those. And I pack my little, my little shoes and little things in the bag.

Helen: It is funny, when you’re going to like a really warm destination though, but you’re leaving somewhere cold, and you’re like, “Do I really want to wear sandals on the plane when it’s raining out? Or do I bring my boots that I’m never going to wear on this trip?”

Caroline: I know. It’s true. That’s always the dilemma. Tees are a classic choice for a base layer top. You can go with a classic boxy style like the Jackson Tee or something more fitted like the Goldie by Seamwork. This one has a wide cinched sweetheart neckline. Honestly, there’s so many good tee patterns out there. It’s just about finding the right one for your personal style. Or whatever your personal style is gonna be on your trip.

Helen: Yeah, that’s true. You can have a whole new persona.

Caroline: Yeah!

Helen: This is Italy Caroline. You can even layer your bottoms. You can wear leggings or biker shorts under your jeans or skirts to boost their warmth level.

Caroline: Ooh, I like that idea. Okay, we have some legging sewing tips to throw at you. So look for fabric with a high amount of four-way stretch. For the Avery Leggings, Helen recommends 70% or higher. Athletic fabrics are usually a good choice. So here are some search terms you can use if you’re shopping online for a really good fabric for leggings for your trip. You can look up performance jersey, technical fabric, activewear knits, or dancewear. Dancewear will have some fun prints, too.

Helen: That’s true. And if you want a warmer legging, you can look for technical fleece fabrics. Elizabeth Made This recommends fleece backed Polartec power stretch fabric. And Melly from Melly Sews recommends a 100 weight stretch technical fleece that you can find at Seattle Fabrics.

Caroline: And make sure to grade between sizes if you fall into more than one size category for waist and hips. Leggings are close-fitting, so you definitely wanna get the pattern as close as you can to your size.

Helen: Use knit elastic rather than braided for your leggings. Braided elastic loses strength when sewn through. And if you have a wider waistband, choose a no-roll elastic for the best success.

Caroline: Yeah, and there’s a tutorial on the Sewaholic blog for sewing faux flatlock seams on a regular sewing machine. It’s such a nice finish for athletic leggings. So we’re gonna link that up for you in the show notes.

Helen: I love leggings while travelling. It’s so comfy, low profile, easy to layer. You really can’t go wrong.

Caroline: Yeah, especially for travel days. Like, I never want to wear hard pants. On a plane, like, absolutely not, right?

Helen: Oh, like jeans? I would wear an elastic waist linen, but then it gets very wrinkly. Like, you stand up after a five hour flight and it’s like, it does not look good.

Caroline: Yeah. So keep that in mind.

Helen: Leggings actually still look cute. So that’s a win. Okay. That was base layers. Now let’s talk about second layers. There’s some choices that we love, like button ups, flannel shirts, lightweight to medium-weight sweaters, hoodies, elastic waist pants, elastic waist skirts, and jeans.

Caroline: Okay, and if you’re travelling to a place where you know It’s gonna be rainy and wet, you might want to bring a water-resistant or waterproof jacket. Discovery Fabrics in Canada and Seattle Fabrics in the USA have some really great technical fabric options.

Helen: If you’re going waterproof, you’ll probably want to seal your seams. And Closet Core has an article about sewing a waterproof jacket that’s part of their Kelly Anorak sewalong, and it has instructions for how to do it. It’s pretty similar to applying, like, a fusible interfacing, and it makes it so that no water can get into your seams.

Caroline: I think the ideal top layer isn’t too heavy. A thick coat is lovely, but not really versatile for travelling. I think the Kelly Anorak is a good option. The Ilford Jacket would be nice; an oversized chore coat would fit well over other layers. And the Chilton Trench by Cashmerette would be super chic for a city trip. I like to think about the fact that often, when I’m travelling, I’m going in and out of stores or, like, outside into a museum or whatever, so you want something that you’re not going to get, like, really hot in as soon as you step inside.

Helen: Yes, exactly.

Caroline: Or easy to remove and carry around.

Helen: Easy to carry around. Exactly. Like, you can, like, fold it over your bag and it’s not, like, horrible.

Caroline: Yeah. Like, hasn’t everyone had that experience of, like, “sweaty arm” in a museum because you’re like carrying your coat over your arm?

Helen: Right? And they often have coat checks, but do I use them? No.

Caroline: No. Don’t email us about that because we don’t use it.

Helen: Okay. And this might seem obvious, but it’s so much easier to pack light when you’re travelling to a warm climate because the clothes are just smaller. So if that’s you, just erase everything we just said and enjoy dressing in a single beautiful rayon dress and bathing suit for a week.

Caroline: Oh my gosh, it’s so true. I’m, this is also making me think that, like, people in larger bodies should be allowed to bring more luggage.

Helen: Yes, agreed.

Caroline: Because, like, our clothes are just bigger.

Helen: Yeah, Sam complains about this a lot, too, because men’s clothes are also typically bulkier. So I’ll be able to fit, like, a lot of stuff on my side of the suitcase and then his side is, like, three pairs of jeans and a sweater and it’s full.

Caroline: Yeah. And obviously you don’t want to give up any of your suitcase real estate.

Helen: No, absolutely not.

Caroline: So you’re like, “Sam, make it work.”

Helen: Exactly.

Caroline: Also, packing cubes are great. I’ve just started using packing cubes on my last trip and they really helped compact things down. So if you struggle with fitting everything in your luggage, try packing cubes.

Helen: It’s true, it helps you stay organized.

Caroline: Alright, before we move on to travel capsules, let’s talk about our personal experience sewing for travel. Honestly, there are, like, too many, too many memories to narrow down. Helen, is there one that comes to mind?

Helen: I do have one, because I went on a trip to Mexico to visit Sam’s parents, were down there in their RV and Sam and I flew down to visit them. And it was right at the beginning of Helen’s Closet. So I had my blog going, but I hadn’t started the pattern company part of it yet. And I know that because I distinctly remember talking about it with Sam’s mom on the beach and how I wanted to start this pattern company. And I was telling her about it and I was so excited and I had sewn a whole bunch of stuff for this trip because I wanted to document it on the blog. So there’s a whole series on our blog, I think it’s called “Me-Made Mexico,” where I just posted all the things that I made for it, including my very first pair of Winslow Culottes and a Reynolds Dress prototype and some swimsuits that I made. And they’re all using, well, not all, but I think most of them are using Blackbird fabrics from, like, the early days. Like, there’s, like, a parrot rayon fabric.

Caroline:Yes! I was gonna say, I feel like that’s the, the pink parrot or flamingo…

Helen: Yes.

Caroline: I can’t remember…a bird.

Helen: I think it’s a parrot.

Caroline: Yeah, pink print. That’s, like, one of the first projects I saw from you, I think, before we even met. Oh my gosh. Wow.

Helen: Yeah, I know. It was such a fun trip. I have so many good memories from that trip and I brought all these fun things and Laurie helped me take photos of all of them ‘cause she loves to do photography. So that’s why the pictures from that trip are so incredible, too. It’s just, yeah, full of great memories.

Caroline: Oh, that’s a great, that’s a great story.

Helen: Yeah. How about you? Do you have any memories of sewing for trips?

Caroline: I pretty much sew before every trip I take. It’s really when I have my sewjo on the highest level and I just am always so inspired before a trip. But one of my favourite memories, and I don’t know if it’s favourite because it was, like, the best or if it’s just, like, kind of burned into my brain, but I did famously pull an all-nighter to finish a dress that I was making to wear to my cousin’s wedding. This was like back in 2017, I think. But yeah, I stayed up all night sewing this dress. It was an Acton Dress in, like, a black and red floral. I still have it to this day. It’s still hanging in my closet. And yeah, I love that dress. I’m so happy I finished it. And I remember feeling, like, so relieved and I literally, like, finished it, packed, and went to the airport. I did not sleep a single wink that night. Which is…

Helen: So wild.

Caroline: Questionable behaviour. I haven’t, like, stayed up all night sewing like that in a really long time. I’m, I feel like my body would not do well anymore with that. But it is a memory that I think about fairly often because it was just such…yeah, just crazy. Why did I do that?

Helen: It is really funny that it gives us such a drive to create an outfit when, like, we sew. So we already have lots of really great cool outfits that we could choose from, but for some reason, we’ve got to make something new.

Caroline: I know. And I, I think I’ve made a dress for almost every wedding I’ve been to. And often weddings involve travel. So I have, like, this series of dresses in my wardrobe that I’m like, “Oh, that’s the dress I made for this wedding. That’s the dress I made for this wedding.” And like, they’re such great memories and I never want to get rid of them. I hope I get invited to another wedding at some point. And I just want to, like, choose from my beautiful collection of dresses that I make to wear for weddings.

Helen: Yeah, right. You’ll make a new one. What are you talking about?

Caroline: I know. I know. I did rewear one to my friend’s wedding a couple of years ago, or maybe that was last year, but, and I was really like, I was happy to be able to rewear it. I just, like, didn’t have time to sew one. So I rewore it and I was like, “Good for me. I’m rewearing this dress.”

Helen: It does make it special, though. It ups the, like, sentimental value of the clothing and it ties that dress to that event. So yeah, I love it. I think it’s really cool.

Caroline: Yeah, it really does. Mmhmm. Okay, let’s talk about something that we hard cannot relate to, and that is: travel capsules. Fun in theory.

Helen: Yeah, fun in theory, a little hard to execute, but maybe not for everyone. It depends on your personal style. A travel capsule is a set of clothes that can be mixed and matched for a bunch of different outfit options. Usually travel capsules are pretty neutral in colour and style, which makes matching easy, but you can totally make one with brights and prints. Just need to pick a colour palette that everything, you know, goes together.

Caroline: Anuschka Rees, who wrote The Curated Closet, has a good system for making a wardrobe palette. She recommends choosing three main colours that represent the style you’re going for, two neutrals to support and balance the other shades, and four accent shades to add variety. Of course, you don’t have to stick to your palette a hundred percent when you’re putting together your travel capsule, but it might make your design process and shopping a little bit easier. Honestly, that sounds like a lot of colours for a small capsule wardrobe.

Helen: Yeah, you might not, you might not need four accents. But I do like the idea of choosing the three main colours, and often in our wardrobes that’s like denim and black and cream or something, you know, so, fairly obvious. And then you can add a little bit more personality with some other colours.

Caroline: Mmhmm.

Helen: What exactly you put in your capsule depends on what kind of clothes you feel comfy and confident in, plus what’s practical for your trip. So there’s not really a perfect formula that’s going to fit everyone in every scenario. But if you do want inspo, you can just google “travel capsule formula” and you’ll find so many resources and video blogs with people showing the outfits and all sorts of different things. So that can be really fun.

Caroline: Yeah, a lot of people who travel with a capsule wardrobe plan on washing at least a few of their garments while they’re travelling, so let’s talk about that for a second. The more you can rewear pieces, the less you’ll have to bring with you. You can smell test your stuff to see whether it’s good to wear or if it needs to be washed. Airing clothing out or hanging it in the sun for a little bit is another good way to get rid of the bacteria that makes things smelly. And outer layers are less likely to get smelly, but you still may need to, like, spot clean them. But yeah, definitely. I’ve been known to do a smell test on, on my clothes. You’re like, “Should I rewear this? I don’t know.”

Helen: Usually the answer is immediately very obvious after the smell test.

Caroline: Yeah. We’ve all been there.

Helen: You can try to find, like, a laundromat at your destination or choose a rental with a washing machine or just wash your things in the hotel sink. You can put your regular laundry detergent in a travel size bottle or buy some travel-friendly packets or just, I don’t know, use the hand soap from the hotel to give it a little rinse and then hang it to dry. And that usually works pretty well.

Caroline: Yeah. I have those, like, little bottles of Soak wash which is, like, you don’t even have to rinse. You just, like, soak the garment in the sink and then hang it up. And I usually, if I have space, we’ll bring that just in case something needs to get washed that I definitely want to rewear again. I feel like it’s always just nice to have something with you.

Helen: Yeah, totally.

Caroline: There are some really inspiring me-made travel capsules out there. Meg from Sew Liberated made a capsule for her summer trip to Europe in 2019. It was only 10 pieces and fit in a backpack. So cool. The pieces are mostly black, cream, and warm brown with a pop of brick red. Two box tops, two skirts, two dresses, a pair of pants, a lace duster, and a swimsuit. Honestly, wow. There’s a post on Instagram that you can look at to see these pieces. Sew Liberated also has an online class called The Mindful Wardrobe Project, which is about creating a curated handmade wardrobe. So I bet there’s some great info in there as well about this travel capsule. But yeah, this is really inspiring.

Helen: So beautiful. I love that she included a lace duster, as though that’s, like, a standard item of clothing that you would bring on a trip.

Caroline: I know, but if you know Meg’s style it, like, makes so much sense, right?

Helen: Oh, 100%. It makes so much sense. And it is nice to have those layering pieces you can throw on to make things feel a little fancier.

Caroline: Yeah, totally.

Helen: Lou from Sew Much to Design made a capsule for a trip to London and Portugal. And she chose a gorgeous print fabric as her palette and then built the whole capsule around it. So: brown, coral, yellow, and orange. Such a great idea. It turned out so beautifully. She has a bunch of pics on her blog from her capsule in action and we’ll link it up for you in the show notes.

Caroline: And Casey from Pattern Scout made a travel capsule for a 10 day trip to Spain. It’s so chic and summery and she has a YouTube video all about it that we’ll link up as well.

Helen: Ooh, it’s so fun. I love the idea of planning and sewing an entire capsule wardrobe for a trip, but that’s something you have to start, like, in advance, you know? That’s not like a last-minute sew-the-night-before kind of game.

Caroline: Yeah, but I mean, I think, to be fair, if you want to, like, make clothes that are going to fit into your everyday wardrobe as well, then you can, like, pull some things that you like and just make a few things to complement them. Like, you don’t necessarily have to sew a whole capsule, capsule wardrobe, right?

Helen: Yeah, but what if I want to?

Caroline: Asking for a friend.

Helen: No, that makes so much sense. That’s a much more reasonable approach.

Caroline: Yeah, if you want to, then definitely you need to start early or else you’ll be pulling all nighters like me.

Helen: What if you just buy like 20 yards of one fabric and then make all of your clothes out of it? Like, make literally everything in your capsule wardrobe…is made out of this one fabric and it all goes…Caroline’s like, “What are you talking about?” It all goes perfectly together.

Caroline: Like, I just think you’d get so bored.

Helen: Not if it was like a really bold print. ‘Cause then every fit you wear, people would be like, “Whoa.”

Caroline: Oh my goodness. Yeah, I mean, I do really think, like, the key to a capsule wardrobe is all the things have to mix and match. Like, you can’t have something that stands alone. It all has to work together.

Helen: Every top has to go with every bottom for it to work. Yeah.

Caroline: Yeah. And you have to really think about the pieces that you’re bringing. Like, don’t pack five dresses, you know, pack two dresses and make sure you have, like, a good balance with tops and bottoms, right? You just have to.

Helen: You lost me at “don’t pack five dresses.” Let’s move on.

Caroline: Okay, let’s move on.

Helen: Okay. We want to talk a little bit about travel bags and accessories ‘cause there’s so many cool patterns out there for everything from carry-ons to toiletry bags to full-on luggage. So Friday Pattern Co. actually recently released the Friday Garment Bag, which is a pay-what-you-can pattern. And it folds in half with handles for easy carrying, and it has pockets for accessories and shoes. I think the big attraction of this one would be choosing a really fun fabric. Like, at Blackbird, you guys recently did those exclusive cotton twills with the flower florals and the leopard print. That was so cool.

Caroline: Oh my gosh, those would be so great. I definitely have, like, dreams of making a cool garment bag because every garment bag I’ve ever owned has been so ugly and, like, that plasticky material. And it probably has, like, “Moore’s” on it or something.

Helen: Yeah, exactly.

Caroline: So having, like, a really cute handmade garment bag to put my, like, fancy clothes in or Shea’s suit in, like, I feel like that would just make that travel so much more special.

Helen: It would be really fun and it’s something you’ll use literally forever. So it’s also a good investment in your future.

Caroline: It’s so true, yes.

Helen: We touched on packing cubes already and they do have two purposes and benefits. First is organization. It’s so much easier to find what you need when things are categorized into separate removable compartments in your suitcase. And it comes in handy if you need to take your toiletries out at airport security and things like that. The second purpose is fitting more stuff into your bag because compression cubes can help you do that. So it actually squishes everything down.

Caroline: Yeah, it’s like this continuous zipper that you just keep zipping and everything keeps getting more and more compacted in. It’s really cool.

Helen: I feel like outdoorsy folks probably have, like, stuff sacks and things like that that you could use as well, or you just, like, stick it all in there, but that does increase the wrinkling, too.

Caroline: Okay, Sewfisticated has a pattern for packing cubes that comes in four sizes and you can choose between regular and compression styles. The compression ones have a double zipper. You zip up the first zipper to close it and then you mush it down and close the second zipper. If you want to make the compression style, you want to choose a lightweight, strong fabric like ripstop nylon.

Helen: Some people prefer to use clear vinyl or mesh on one side so they can actually see what’s inside the cube. Just remember that any holes you make in vinyl are there forever, so sew carefully. And you might want to use a layer of tissue paper so that it doesn’t stick to your machine’s foot or needle plate.

Caroline: And if you’re in it more for organization than compression, Mija Handmade has a free tutorial for quilt block packing cubes. And you can make a 12 inch block of your choice and it becomes the top of your cube. That is so cute. I feel like, Helen, this is up your alley.

Helen: I need to do this. It’s so cute. I love it.

Caroline: It’s really really cute.

Helen: Another benefit to making little travel bags is that it’s a great way to use up scraps. Like, you can make yourself a toiletry bag, maybe a zipper pouch style, or a boxy kind of dopp kit style. And if you want to make it waterproof, you can choose laminated cotton, also known as pool? Pule? Pool?

Caroline: Just “P-U-L.”

Helen: I’m gonna go with pule.

Caroline: Pule?

Helen: You can choose laminated cotton, also known as PUL, oilcloth, or chalkcloth. That’s cotton that’s laminated with a thin layer of plastic. So it’s more lightweight and flexible than most vinyls. It’s a little easier to sew with. But, much like vinyl, you’ll still want to use a Teflon foot or a layer of tissue paper so it doesn’t stick to your machine. And we have a few more tips for working with laminated cottons.

Caroline: Yeah, so you want to be pressing them on the wrong side. Or use a pressing cloth. And definitely use a low heat on your iron, because you don’t want them to melt. Use sewing clips. Pins are going to pierce the plastic layer and leave holes. So get some of those, like, little Wonder Clips to use, which are a great thing to have in your sewing space, anyways. I’m so into Wonder Clips right now.

Helen: Yeah, they’re amazing.

Caroline: According to Melissa from Polka Dot Chair, if you need to unpick a line of stitches and you have holes in your fabric, you can melt them back together by laying paper over the piece and ironing it. That’s pretty cool.

Helen: Yeah. And never press your project when the laminated sides are facing each other because they can melt together. This is why Melissa does not recommend using laminated fabrics as a lining.

Caroline: Honestly, it sounds like minimizing or eliminating pressing is a good idea here, if you can. And laminated fabrics don’t fray, so you don’t need to finish your seams, which is a real bonus.

Helen: If you’re looking for a good zipper pouch tutorial, Kimberly from Sweet Red Poppy has one for clear vinyl zipper pouches that would work really well for, like, a liquids bag if you’re travelling by air to the US. But the coolest thing about this tutorial is that you can make a double layered bag and put confetti and glitter in between the layers. Maybe not the best idea for the TSA, but for a regular toiletry bag or a bag for a kid or something, it would be really fun and cute.

Caroline: I really love the idea of sewing a toiletry bag because they’re just, like, so boring, you know?

Helen: Yeah, it’s true. I have a couple that I got at a local quilt show that somebody else in my community made and they’re so great. I love it so much. Just having a fun fabric and having, like, a handmade toiletry kit, that makes me smile. It’s the best.

Caroline: Yes. Yeah, I feel like it’s a great way to add a little personality to your packing. Shoe bags are another good project for travelling. They’re just like drawstring bags where you can store your shoes without getting all of your other stuff dirty with ground shoe dirt.

Helen: Dirty with ground.

Caroline: And these are such a great scrap buster. Honestly, I don’t know why I haven’t done this because when I pack, I’m always, like, trying to find plastic bags in my house. Like, where? We don’t get plastic grocery bags anymore. They’re, like, hard to get now. So just, like, I’m always looking around for something to put my shoes in so that I don’t get ground on all my clothes.

Helen: It’s so true, especially after the trip when you’ve been walking a ton. Yeah. That’s a really smart idea. And you can use little bags for all sorts of stuff. Like, sometimes it’s nice to have a drawstring bag to put your dirty laundry in when you’re travelling, so it’s separated. You don’t get your used underwear confused with your fresh underwear, that kind of thing.

Caroline: I mean, there’s so many underwear, like, you do need to organize them, because you’ll obviously have, like, 20 pairs.

Helen: You’ll have, like, 40 pairs of underwear, so you need to keep them organized.

Caroline: No, it’s true. Like, accessories, belts, or socks; there’s like so many uses for little drawstring bags. So.

Helen: Another little project you can make is a passport case. Cristy from Love You Sew has a free pattern for the Navigator Passport Case and Wallet. It’s intended for bag vinyls, but she has some really cute cork samples, too. And it has a pocket for your passport and a clear vinyl window where you can store your ID, tickets that need to be scanned, or like your vaccination card. If you have scraps of vinyl from bag making, this is a perfect use for them. I love this idea. I’m always a mess in the airport with my passport and my ticket and I’m, like, checking to make sure it’s in my pocket like every 10 seconds. Like, I need a better system.

Caroline: Yes. Totally. And Ingrid from Joe, June, and Mae has a free tutorial for making her plane quilt block into a passport case. It’s the cutest thing I’ve ever seen in my life. And I wonder, Helen, if this would be like a good way to try out paper piecing?

Helen: I think it would. I was looking at this one. It is the cutest little block. And I love the idea of making it into a passport case. This plane, when we say plane, we mean like planes that fly.

Caroline: Aeroplane.

Helen: This plane quilt block, aeroplane quilt block, it’s adorable and it comes in a bunch of different sizes. So you can make it in different sizes for different projects. Amy from Positively Splendid has a free pattern for a luggage tag using quilting cotton and clear vinyl. The fabrics she chose for the samples are really pretty and she even has a printable PDF for the labels. These would make really great gifts for the holidays, too. I love this idea.

Caroline: Mmhmm. So cute. Bigger travel bags are great projects, too. Carry-ons and weekenders range from beginner to intermediate levels, depending on the details and the fabrics you use. By Annie has some great patterns for travel bags. The Travel Duffel Bag has a padded shoulder strap, handles, inner and outer pockets, and a sleeve that slips over the handle of a rolling bag. And it’s also designed to fit in with the carry-on guidelines for many airlines.

Helen: Yeah, and this bag pattern uses foam stabilizer to give it a sturdy but flexible shape. Foam stabilizers like Soft and Stable and Pellon Flex-Foam give me-made bags a professional look and a lot of structure. It comes in fusible and sew-in versions. You can increase your stitch length and use a walking foot to get the best results with this.

Caroline: And if you don’t want to mess with foam stabilizer, you can try a bag pattern with less structure. The Portside Travel Set by Grainline Studio includes a duffel bag, dopp kit, and a zipper pouch. And it’s intended for heavier fabrics like canvas and twill, but it will still probably be easier to manage than thick foam. Helen, do you remember Joanne’s Portside Travel Set from Camp Workroom Social? I like, it’s like, burned into my brain, it was so beautiful.

Helen: It’s so beautiful to have everything matching in a set. The only thing with, like, a fancy set like that is like, am I prepared to put that on the airport, like, you know, like, to actually check that bag? Probably not. ‘Cause I’m like, I don’t want it to get dirty.

Caroline: No. But, like, a weekend, for like a weekend bag, if you’re, like, going to visit the in laws or something, I feel like it would be cute.

Helen: Super fun to have and really fun to make. Like, if you’re in a bit of a garment sewing funk, bag sewing is so much fun. Caroline, I’ve seen a lot of people making the Bestie Bag and using it for trips, or every day, obviously, but it comes in three sizes. So it’s, like, perfect. If you want a giant one to haul a bunch of stuff around, like, I think that’s a great choice for wandering around a big city or something like that. ‘Cause there’s so much room for a water bottle. You can stuff your jacket in there. Like, it just really works.

Caroline: Yes. Yes. Totally. I know, there’s, like, so many different styles of bags that you could make for a trip. And also bags are really fun to make, so you should try.

Helen: And other sewists might be able to spot you, too. Sometimes I’ll see people in the airport with bags made out of certain fabrics. I’m like, “I bet that person sews.”

Caroline: Yes. Great way to make friends. Okay, well, Helen, I’m leaving on a trip in six days so, I gotta go. I gotta go.

Helen: “I got sewing to do.”

Caroline: I got some sewing to do.

Helen: And if you have any tips or stories about sewing for travel, we want to hear them. Definitely tag us in your travel capsule posts. And we love seeing your travel outfits. I see a lot of Helen’s Closet patterns out and about on trips and that always makes me smile.

Caroline: Helen, this episode comes out the day before I’m leaving on this trip. Do you want to take bets on whether I’m going to be sewing this evening?

Helen: The day before, I’m going to guess a hundred percent. I’ll put…

Caroline: Yeah, I don’t even think we should bet on it.

Helen: Yeah, we, I don’t, I could put money on that, but no one’s going to bet against me.

Caroline: Just know that while you’re listening to this, folks, I’m probably frantically sewing something for my trip tomorrow.

Helen: I can’t wait to see it.

Caroline: Yeah! That’s it for today’s episode of Love to Sew. You can find me, Caroline, at Blackbird Fabrics and BF patterns and Helen at Helen’s Closet Patterns and Cedar Quilt Co. And we’re recording in beautiful British Columbia, Canada.

Helen: You can support Love to Sew and get access to bonus content by subscribing on Patreon or Apple Podcasts. You even get access to the back catalogue of bonus episodes and that’s over 75 hours of Love to Sew. So go to patreon.com/lovetosew or check out our podcast page on Apple Podcasts for more info.

Caroline: You can head to lovetosewpodcast.com to find our show notes. They’re filled with links and pictures from this episode. And if you’d like to get in touch with us, please leave us a message. You can call us at 1-844-SEW-WHAT. That’s 1-844-739-9428. Or send us an email at hello@lovetosewpodcast.com.

Helen: Thanks to our amazing podcast team. Lisa Ruiz is our creative assistant and Jordan Moore of The Pod Cabin is our editor. And thank you for listening. We’ll talk to you next week.

Caroline: Buh bye!

Helen: Bye!

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