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Transcript:

Helen: We are recording today on the traditional, ancestral, and unceded territories of the Coast Salish and Kwakwaka’wakw peoples, including Tsleil-Waututh, Squamish, Musqueam, and K’ómoks first nations.

Hello and welcome to Love to Sew. I’m Helen, the designer behind Helen’s Closet Patterns and Cedar Quilt Co.

Caroline: And I’m Caroline, the owner of Blackbird Fabrics and BF Patterns.

Helen: We’re two sewing buds who love to sew and it’s all we know how to talk about.

Caroline: And in today’s episode, we cover both overalls and jumpsuits. We talk about choosing the right style for you and matching it with the perfect fabric. We also chat about the kinds of adjustments that are super important for these all-in-one garments and how to know if you need them. Plus, indie patterns, installing hardware, and more.

Helen: If you love to sew, this is your show.

Hi Caroline.

Caroline: Hi Helen, how are you?

Helen: I’m good, thanks. How are you?

Caroline: I’m good. I have to say, I, I kind of see you as like, the queen of overalls, and by extension, jumpsuits.

Helen: I know, and I love, love, love both of those garments and pinafores, which we’ll mention today a little bit as well. But I love a bib, I guess, is the takeaway.

Caroline: Yeah. She loves a bib, everyone.

Helen: She loves a bib. And you know, we don’t have a jumpsuit pattern in the Helen’s Closet collection yet, but I do want to mention that there’s one coming your way soon.

Caroline: Oh my gosh, exciting. I can’t wait for the world to see this pattern. It is gorgeous.

Helen: Thank you. Yes. I’m so, so pumped. And Caroline, I know you love a jumpsuit as well, and I can’t believe we haven’t covered this in an episode yet. So this is going to be fun.

Caroline: I do love a jumpsuit. I love an overall. I mean, what’s not to love, really? But I guess we will get into it. There maybe are some things not to love.

Helen: This is going to be a very pro overalls and jumpsuits episode. Okay. We’re going to kick things off today with a question. This question comes from Scott. “Hello, Helen and Caroline. My wife is an avid seamstress/sewing person? and also an avid listener of your podcast. She sews almost all her own clothing and has made quilts for all of our nieces and nephews. Five birthday quilts, one wedding quilt, and a sixth coming up for our nephew that’s old enough to decide what he’s into. I know she has bought both fabric and patterns from you. But getting to the point, I’m not a sewer and I’m in need of gift ideas for my wife’s big birthday. She’s a leap year baby, so this February 29th, she turns both 10 and 40. What sewing gift do you give someone who already has all the equipment they need to continue their sewing hobby and enough fabric to last them a lifetime? Long arm machine is a no-go. We don’t have the space for that bad mamma jamma.”

Caroline: Oh my gosh, wouldn’t that be amazing? I love this question. Thank you so much, Scott. I definitely have some ideas. Actually, as you were reading this email back, I was like, “Oh, I need to add this idea and this idea.” But first, we want to wish Scott’s wife JJ a belated happy birthday.

Helen: I know, 10 years old already?

Caroline: Oh my gosh, where did the years go? You’ve gotten so tall, JJ.

Helen: But seriously, it sounds like you’ve accomplished so much, all those quilts and clothes, and of course it sounds like you really love sewing, which we are always a fan of. So I think we’d get along.

Caroline: I think so too. Okay, I think we should get to some gift ideas because we have quite the list today. It sounds like she probably has everything she needs to sew. So let’s talk about some unique tools and maybe upgrades that she might want.

Helen: Yes, a beautiful tailor’s clapper or seam ripper from TimberNotions would be so nice. They’re handmade from lots of different hardwoods. And even if she has one of these already, having this, like, custom handmade wooden version of it makes it extra special.

Caroline: Whipstitch Handmade has really fun quilting rulers. Some of these are iridescent, some have rainbow confetti or gold flakes in them. These are so cute.

Helen: So fun! A pair of quality scissors like 8” dressmaker shears by Gingher or Kai are great. These can last a lifetime. Also, LDH has some really fun scissors, again with the iridescence and the cool colours. Thread snips or embroidery scissors by those companies are nice too. You really can’t have too many pairs of snips, in my opinion.

Caroline: It’s so true. And I feel like every sewist has, like, a different type of snip that they prefer, so a nice little assortment is always a good idea.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: The Pattern Magic Books by Tomoko Nakamichi are such a great resource for advanced sewists. They’re all about manipulating patterns to create special effects.

Helen: They are just really fun to browse through too. I have them in my collection. I have not yet attempted any of it, but I love looking at it. A set of Gutermann or Mettler thread is always nice. Then she has a bunch to choose from without having to stop by a craft store. Some sets even come in really cute little gift boxes. Again, you can never have too much thread.

Caroline: Jen Hogg, who was on the Great British Sewing Bee, has some really cool notions in her shop. Our fave is the seam circles. They’re, like, little wooden circles that help you add or subtract seam allowance accurately.

Helen: Ooh, very cool. If you have a bigger ticket gift in mind, we have a few ideas. If she doesn’t have a serger yet, getting one as a gift could be a total game changer. We both have the Juki MO654DE. We talked about it on the show many times. We both absolutely love it. And it’s a relatively affordable machine. It comes in around 5 or 600 bucks.

Caroline: Yeah, and a dress form is also a super nice thing to have, especially if she’s interested in making her own patterns or draping. You’re just going to make sure you get something that is her size or a similar size.

Helen: Mmhmm. Or at least, you know, exchangeable.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: If you really want to knock her socks off, a trip to somewhere like Camp Workroom Social would be a dream gift for a sewist. And what an amazing gift to receive. That would be so special.

Caroline: Yes! I did think of another little small ticket item that I think would be so cute. Like, a pack of labels, potentially, would be really cute. Something to add a little bit of flourish to a garment. Also, Kylie and the Machine has those amazing magnetic pin dishes that I think make amazing gifts, so that would be a good option too.

Helen: Oh, there are so many good ones. I mean, buttons as well. There’s so many cute buttons. And I know from the outside looking in, it may seem like us sewists already have everything we need, but we do love having multiples of things or different versions of things or just fun versions of things. So don’t be shy if you’re listening. Maybe someone sent this to you encouraging you to get them a gift. Just go for it. They’ll probably love anything you get them if it’s related to this beautiful hobby.

Caroline: I love it. I wish it was my birthday. I need to bookmark this part of the episode and send it to a few people.

Helen: Yes, everyone needs to send this to their loved ones to give them ideas.

Caroline: Okay, I think it’s time to stop dreaming about prezzies and get into the show!

Helen: Overall, I think this episode’s gonna be a blast.

Caroline: Yes, Helen, let’s jump right in!

Helen: Okay, overalls and jumpsuits are related. I mean, they both have a pair of pants as the base and include a top part as part of it, but they can be really different, too. Like, a pair of canvas overalls is pretty far away from a flowy silk jumpsuit, style-wise. But even for those two garments, the fitting advice has some similar things. And that’s why we’re going to cover them both in this episode. So we can talk a little bit about how to fit the whole body, head to toe.

Caroline: Yes, let’s cover what the difference is between them. So, in general, overalls are more casual, they’re made with heavier fabrics, and they have a bib rather than a full top. In general, jumpsuits tend to be dressier, they’re made of lighter weight fabrics, and they have a full top. But there are exceptions and overlaps. Like a boiler suit is made of heavier weight fabric, it’s more casual, but it has a full top. And there are some overalls that are made of lightweight, drapey fabrics and have gathers and stuff.

Helen: Yeah, there’s definitely middle ground. And there’s lots of different names for these garments too. So here are some to keep in mind when you’re searching for patterns or inspo online. British people usually say “dungarees” when they’re talking about what we would call “overalls” here in Canada and the United States and I’m pretty sure Australia. But they have dungarees in Australia, right? Is that a different thing down there?

Caroline: Yeah, I don’t know. Somebody let us know.

Helen: Let us know down under what’s going on with the dungarees.

Caroline: We just talked about boilersuits. They’re also called coveralls or flight suits. These are utility-style garments that have a full shirt and full pants and they are traditionally worn for work like painting, gardening, or working on cars. They can be very utilitarian or a bit more fashion-y. I have to say, I love the term “flight suit.” It just makes me feel like a pilot when I wear it.

Helen: Absolutely. I also love “boilersuit.” It makes me feel like a really hardcore mechanic, which is awesome.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: There’s also rompers, onesies, and playsuits. These are usually not those workwear style garments, hence the more cutesy style names.

Caroline: What? You don’t think I can fix a car in a onesie?

Helen: I mean, I call my little, like, boilersuit onesie that I have in my garage for doing yard work and stuff, I call it a onesie. So, again, it’s all, like, mixed together.

Caroline: Sometimes overalls that have shorts are called shortalls.

Helen: There’s also bodysuits, catsuits, and unitards, and those are names for tightly fitted stretch jumpsuits.

Caroline: Yeah. Another one that I love: a catsuit. Like, who could put on a catsuit and not feel bomb? Incredible.

Helen: I know, they’re so fun. I’ve never made a catsuit, but now I want to.

Caroline: Yeah. Well, whatever you call them, jumpsuits and overalls are very popular in the sewing community. They make a big visual impact because they cover you in a big swath of fabric. And they feel a bit unexpected and very stylish.

Helen: You can find overalls and jumpsuit patterns to suit many different skill levels, but in general I think they tend to be an intermediate to even an advanced sewing project, just because they can be a bit challenging to fit and you’re dealing with a top and a bottom in one, so typically there’s details involved that make it more of an intermediate sew.

Caroline: With that said, sewing your own jumpsuit or pair of overalls is a great idea because you can fit them to your body, and it’s notoriously difficult to find a ready-to-wear jumpsuit that fits well. I can attest to that. I have yet to find one.

Helen: I know, it’s so challenging, and with online shopping being so ubiquitous these days, like, good luck buying a jumpsuit online that arrives and fits you. I mean, come on. Of course, we do need to mention a couple of drawbacks to overalls and jumpsuits. The first being going to the washroom. I mean, if you’re wearing a jumpsuit, you pretty much have to use the bathroom topless. And sometimes with overalls, you have to undo the straps and then they fall down behind you and it’s, like, a whole thing. So just putting it out there, it’s a little awkward.

Caroline: Is there anything more terrifying than being in the washroom when you’re wearing a jumpsuit, which is around your ankles, you’re fully naked, and then someone tries the door? Like, has that ever happened to you? I don’t think I’ve ever jumped so high.

Helen: It is very, like…

Caroline: It’s just an immediate like, “Oh!”

Helen: You’re so vulnerable when you don’t have any clothes on in a public washroom. Like, it feels so wrong.

Caroline: Like, jump scare of the century. We also have to mention wedgies. It’s a risk. It’s a risk.

Helen: It’s a risk. And even if you get a pair of overalls or jumpsuit fitting you perfectly, you still might end up with a bit of a wedgie as the day goes on, when you’re walking around, or maybe to get that perfect fit in the waist and the torso and the legs, you ended up with a little bit of a wedgie. It’s really hard to make that perfect balance. So wedgies are kind of a part of the package deal, unfortunately.

Caroline: Can I add another one, on the fly? My jumpsuit that I love, my Blanca Flight Suit. It’s really hard to get out of.

Helen: Oh.

Caroline: That zipper goes all the way to my crotch and I still, when I first started wearing it, needed literal help to get out of it when I went to the bathroom. Like, Natasha had to come into the bathroom with me and pull it off of my body.

Helen: Oh my gosh. Do you think that if you’d made it like a size up, like a little looser, it’d be easier to get out of? Or is it more about the closures?

Caroline: Yeah, it’s definitely like, a slim fit and it’s like getting it off the shoulders and arms that was the hardest. Yeah, I think maybe if I had, I don’t know, maybe I could make an adjustment next time, but who knows if I’ll, I’ll ever be making another one.

Helen: You just have to imagine you’re a beautiful butterfly trying to emerge from your cocoon and you’re, like, wiggling out of the jumpsuit.

Caroline: But it’s, like, just to use the washroom, so it doesn’t feel very, like, cocoon-y. I just want to pee.

Helen: No, it’s an excellent point because if you have any mobility issues or maybe you’re a wheelchair user, overalls and jumpsuits can be a little bit trickier to get on and off. So that’s a consideration for sure.

Caroline: Yeah, you could get the look of a jumpsuit without these drawbacks by making a faux jumpsuit. Just choose a top and pants pattern and make them from the same fabric. And as a bonus, you’ll have more versatility in your wardrobe since you can pair the top and bottoms with different garments.

Helen: Another option would be to take a jumpsuit pattern and finish the top and pants separately, so you’re kind of chopping it in half. You probably would need to alter the waistband for the pants, or maybe add one, and you might want to be able to tuck in the top, so you could lengthen it at the hem. Although a crop top could look really cool with a faux jumpsuit as well. I’m a huge fan of a faux jumpsuit, and the Gilbert Top is, like, the perfect topper for a faux jumpsuit. And then you put like an elastic waist pant on the bottom. You’ve got yourself, like, wearable pajamas for outside. So good.

Caroline: Helen, I love this because I know that you are working on a Gilbert with an elastic waist pant faux jumpsuit as we speak.

Helen: I am. Head to toe in one of the Blackbird Fabrics exclusive prints. Y’all might remember this one. It’s, like, a black base with these bold white squiggles all over it. And I’m doing Gilbert on top and June on the bottom, our June Pants. So I think it’s going to be so cute. And it will be done by the time this episode comes out. So we’ll have a picture for y’all.

Caroline: Yes, it’s gonna be chef’s kiss. I cannot wait.

Helen: Yeah, me too.

Caroline: And honourable mention goes to pinafores. I feel like I had to put this in there, since we’re talking about all these different styles, because if you like the look of an overall, I feel like a pinafore is like an overall, but in dress form. And we really love them. So maybe you can dip your toes and try a pinafore first.

Helen: Dip your toes. You know, you don’t have to take it off fully to go to the bathroom and you don’t get a wedgie. So it’s really kind of amazing.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: All right. Let’s get into the nitty gritty of overalls first, and then we’ll talk a bit more about jumpsuits later. The style range for overalls is pretty wide. You can make utility-style ones from denim with all the top stitching and rivets. Or you could make midweight ones in linen for a sleeker look. And you can even make lightweight and flowy ones that look quite dressy.

Caroline: Overalls are for anyone who wants to wear them. They are not for a certain age, gender, size, etc. If you want to wear overalls, you go for it.

Helen: Yeah, I want to share a story here because my mother-in-law, Laurie, who some of you may recognize from some of our blog posts and Instagram posts, she absolutely loves wearing overalls. And she’s made the Yanta Overalls and the Ruby Overalls and she wears them all the time and she gets so many compliments from people around her age saying how much they love them too, but, “Oh, I could never wear them. Oh, you’re so brave to wear those overalls,” that kind of thing. And she always encourages them that “No, no, no, it’s okay. Like, we’re allowed to wear overalls too. They’re not just for kids or not just for young folks.” And I really love that she’s encouraging other people. And I get it. If something’s outside your style comfort zone, it can be really hard to wrap your head around trying it. But we do want to just emphasize that if you want to try wearing overalls, of course, you’re allowed to wear overalls. There are no rules for who’s allowed to wear whatever.

Caroline: Mm hmm. It’s so true. I say go for it. And if you’re thinking about trying out an overalls pattern, here are some elements to think about when you’re shopping around. First up, you want to think about how you want your overalls to fit. Are you looking for a fitted waist or a relaxed waist? Some overalls have a waistband, others have elastic or a drawstring cinching it. Relaxed waist options skim over the waist, going in one piece from the bib down to the pants hem.

Helen: And speaking of the pants, how do you want the leg to fit? Pretty much every pant leg is represented in overalls patterns. You can get wide, tapered, straight, skinny, flares, even full-on bell bottoms. Tons of fun options to choose from.

Caroline: And you also want to think about, what length do you want? Do you want long pants? Do you want them to be a little bit cropped? Do you want to make yourself a pair of shortalls?

Helen: Shortalls! I know, is it “short alls” or is it “shortles?”

Caroline: I think shortles is actually a lot cuter, but I feel like maybe harder to understand.

Helen: Shortles sounds like a Pokémon to me.

Caroline: Yeah, it does. I was gonna say, I feel like if you’re unsure about what length you want, especially if it’s your first time making overalls, I would go long and then shorten as needed. Because I find with overalls, I almost have to end up making them longer than I think I do. ‘Cause when you’re bending and sitting, everything sort of rides up. And I like my pants to be long enough. So just don’t risk it.

Helen: I agree. And if you’re worried about stepping into that more juvenile territory, then avoid the shortles, because that definitely gives it a little bit more of that playful romper style.

Caroline: I don’t know what makes you think that. “Shortles” sounds very adult to me.

Helen: Shortles! Shortles! Okay, you can also think about how you want your overalls to function. So are you making these for work or are you making them purely for fashion? Like, I love having overalls for gardening. I have a pair dedicated to gardening. So whenever I’m going out in my garden, I just throw them on. I actually have two pairs because I have a pants pair and a shorts pair depending on how warm it is outside. Caroline, I know you have some work overalls, right?

Caroline: I love having overalls for pottery. I have my Yantas that I wear all the time when I’m doing pottery. I also have something like a WIP that I don’t care to admit is still a WIP, but it’s another pair of Yantas that I was making for pottery that are so cute. Why are they…why are they in the sad pile?

Helen: Our next sewing date, you got to finish those. Are those the cream ones?

Caroline: Yeah, the cream ones with the patches. Yeah.

Helen: I think cream is a great choice for work overalls. It might seem, like, counterintuitive, because of course they’re going to get dirty. But that’s kind of the beauty of it, especially if you’re doing something like painting or pottery. That, like, visual display of your work on your body is really kind of cool. People do love to wear overalls for things like crafting, painting, woodworking, even working on job sites. If you have a job that involves you going to job sites, overalls can be a great option for something you can make for yourself that you can also wear to work.

Caroline: Yes. And the kinds of overalls that I would wear to a job site are maybe different from the ones that I would wear for a barbecue or a cute date. They have to be roomy enough for me to have a full range of motion. They have to be heavy enough so that they won’t wear out quickly. And they definitely have to be machine washable and dryable.

Helen: Yeah, and overalls that aren’t for work are gonna have very different parameters. Like, I wouldn’t worry as much about them holding up with wear. And you could choose patterns made for lighter weight, maybe drapier, softer, comfy fabrics.

Caroline: And I would say that’s not necessarily, like, a hard-and-fast rule, because I feel like sometimes, a pair of, like, hard-wearing, cool, heavy-duty overalls could look really cool for like, everyday fashion and doesn’t necessarily have to be used for work. But I wouldn’t necessarily go the other way around. Like, I wouldn’t wear a pair of linen overalls to do gardening, you know?

Helen: Yeah, they might just get worn out and ripped in the knees and things like that. It’s much better to use, like, a denim or canvas in that situation.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Okay, well, we have a lot of indie patterns that we want to recommend today. You know, I love wearing overalls, as I mentioned, and we do have two patterns over at Helen’s Closet. We have the Yanta Overalls, which are a little looser in the waist and more of that workwear style-inspired. And then we have the Ruby Overalls, which are more cinched in the waist with a bit of elastic. And those ones are really fun because you can make them in drapey fabrics. I’ve made them in Tencel twill and they just feel so good. You get that leg drape, that swish when you walk, and then the bib is really comfy. And so we have enough variety there for you to make whatever kind of style you’re looking for.

Caroline: Yeah, and the Yanta overalls, you made Sam a pair, right?

Helen: Yes, I did. I have a whole blog post about how I adjusted them for him, because he’s quite tall and he had some specific requirements that he wanted for his workwear Yantas. So we have a blog post up about that where I shared all the muslins that I made and all the adjustments I made to make them work for him.

Caroline: Love it. They turned out so cool. And the Yantas go up to a 58” hip, if anyone’s wondering, and the Ruby overalls go to a 62” hip.

Helen: Yes.

Caroline: The Erin Dungarees by Tilly and the Buttons are super cute. You can choose between straps that tie into bows at the shoulders or straps that end in a knot, which you thread through buttonholes. They have a slim fit, tapered legs, and princess seams on the bib. And these ones go up to a 61” hip.

Helen: The Riley Overalls by True Bias have a slouchy fit and a traditional style with lots of jeans details, top stitching, belt loops, jeans buttons, sliders, and clasps on the strap. And speaking of the straps, they cross over in such a beautiful way at the back. And this pattern goes up to a 61” hip.

Caroline: Huge fan of these overalls. These are definitely on my, like, dream to-make list. Although they feel quite intimidating with all those jeans details.

Helen: You can totally do it. One step at a time, we always say.

Caroline: I know, I need that pep talk. The Sloane Overalls by Victory Patterns are almost like a jumpsuit because the top is a square neck bodice with princess seams. It fits really closely. The pants have a slim fit and a tapered leg and the best part is the long exposed zipper down the center. And these overalls go to a 48.5” hip.

Helen: These ones, it’s my turn to say, are on my list, Caroline, and I am intimidated by the fitting aspect of these, but once you nail that fit, holy moly are these ever sexy and cool. They look so good.

Caroline: They’re so chic, right? Yeah, I would not be doing gardening in these. Just, I feel like you wouldn’t have that range of movement.

Helen: No, these are, like, you wear to, like, a gathering with your friends when you know your ex is going to be there.

Caroline: Yeah, absolutely.

Helen: Okay, the Pincha Overalls by Ready to Sew are a cross between overalls and an apron. They have an intentionally very wide waist with ties at the side, so you can pull it to the front and tie it closed. Gives them a very sculptor-in-the-studio look. And they go up to a 61.8” hip.

Caroline: Yeah, I was gonna say, these would be perfect for, like, if you’re a painter or even, I think, pottery would work for this because you really get that range of motion with the sort of pleat-y things on the side. They’re very cool. And the Burnside Bibs by Sew House 7 have a sleek, almost minimalist look. They have slim straps that cross over and thread through belt loops at the back waist to cinch them. They go to a 65” hip. I feel like the Burnside Bibs are like a cult favourite pattern in the sewing community. They’ve been around for so long. I see so many sewists wearing this pattern. It’s definitely beginner-friendly. I think it’s very cool. It has stood the test of time. Still would love to make it.

Helen: Yeah, and I think fitting-wise, it’s a little easier because it does cinch in with that, like, tightening of the strap. So not only do you get to customize where it sits on your shoulders, but you also get to customize how much of a cinch you want at your waist.

Caroline: Yeah. Okay, so: fabrics. The style of your pattern is probably gonna dictate what kinds of fabrics to use. You want to check out the suggested fabric section of the pattern instructions to see what ones will give the best results.

Helen: Overalls that are more traditional workwear style will pair well with medium to heavy bottomweight fabrics. We’re talking denim, twill, canvas, and corduroy.

Caroline: Avoid stretch denims unless your pattern recommends them. You can end up with overalls that fit you in the morning and that are way too big in the evening.

Helen: If your overalls have any gathers, drawstrings, elasticated sections, or ties, medium weight fabrics will work best. Woven linens and lighter cotton twills are a good choice. If you go into that denim/canvas territory with the heavier weights, you’re going to have a hard time threading things like elastic through those casings or making those smaller drawstring elements.

Caroline: A lot of times there’s a range of fabric weights that will work for the same pattern. You just want to be aware of the pros and cons of each choice. For example, heavier weight fabrics will hold up better with a lot of use. They will look best in overall patterns that are more structured, but they’re less comfortable than lighter weight fabrics.

Helen: Lighter weight fabrics are more flexible, which makes them more comfortable, but they can make structured overalls look a little sad and droopy. So if there’s not a lot of structure to the garment pattern, then things can kind of start to sag.

Caroline: Mmhmm. And you get to decide what balance to strike. It kind of depends on the pattern too. A lot of indie pattern companies are happy to give fabric advice for their patterns. So feel free to DM or email them to ask if the fabric you’re thinking of will work or not.

Helen: Totally. And one last piece of fabric advice from my personal experience: It is really tempting to choose, like, a really fun or bold colour for overalls. I mean, ask me how I know, honestly, but I don’t know why, for some reason, it just feels like the right thing to do. And you’re making something so fun, like a pair of overalls. I personally gravitate to those fun colours and bold prints, but the wacky overalls in my closet just do not get worn that much. There are a few sewists out there who would rock them regularly, but for the majority of us, neutral overalls are going to be worn way more often. So nowadays I would choose like a classic denim, black, navy, olive green, even cream, and maybe save the pop of colour for the top that I’m pairing with it or the accessories and let the overalls be a neutral.

Caroline: Yeah, I feel like you could also throw in a pop of colour if there’s, like, a lining on the bib or pocket lining or something, or even with the buttons.

Helen: Yeah. And I don’t want to deter anybody because I’ve seen some absolutely incredible floral, amazing overalls and things like that and they can be so much fun. And if that’s your style, then obviously go for it, but that’s my two cents.

Caroline: From the queen of overalls. Let’s move on to sewing overalls because we definitely have some tips. And first and maybe the most important tip that we have would be to make a muslin. If you wouldn’t sew pants without making a muslin, you don’t want to sew overalls without making one. and if you need help with pants fitting we do talk a lot about that in Episode 184, which we will link in the show notes for you.

Helen: Yeah, when the pattern piece is one big long piece, meaning it goes from the top of the bib to the hem of the pants, making adjustments can be a bit weird. And it’s hard to look at tutorials for how to do adjustments and translate that into your pattern that involves both the pieces put together. So this is why making a muslin is so important because it gives you room to experiment. We mentioned Sam’s Yanta overalls before, and I did a lot of experimenting getting the right fit. And it was a really fun process that in the end resulted in a pair of overalls that fits him perfectly. So it was so, so worth it.

Caroline: Bust fit is less of an issue with overalls, but you still might need to lengthen or widen the bib to get the right fit. With a larger bust there’s more chance of a gaping bib along the top edge. This is hard to avoid. The best thing is to try to keep the strap attachment points from being too far apart, which makes the gaping more pronounced.

Helen: Yeah, exactly. Again, the muslin is going to help you fit the bust area. You can add length and width to accommodate a larger bust. But ultimately, like, it has to go over your bust and you might find that your breasts are kind of spilling out over the sides or you have that gaping along the top. So tweaking it and trimming it until it’s absolutely perfect and then moving ahead is the way to go. Working with heavyweight fabric can be tough if you’ve never done it before, so use a jeans needle or a heavier weight all-purpose needle.

Caroline: You also want to lengthen your stitch length slightly when you’re sewing with a really heavy fabric and potentially reduce your tension. Definitely play around with your machine on some scrap fabric.

Helen: When you reach those really bulky areas, you can use a hump jumper or a jean-a-ma-jig, or just several pieces of cardboard under the back of your foot so that it stays level when you’re starting a seam. A needle case also works really well for this if you have one kicking around, one of those cases that carries your machine needles.

Caroline: And you can use a lighter weight fabric on the facings if you want. This is a great place to use up your woven cotton scraps.

Helen: Yeah, and it’s so cute too. A little pop of lining just for you.

Caroline: Love it.

Helen: There’s also overalls hardware, which might seem intimidating, but if you can sew overalls, you can definitely add those strap sliders and clasps. Don’t be scared. And people will be shocked to learn that you did it yourself. Just make sure you tell them that it’s really hard to do and, like, you’re kind of a big deal.

Caroline: There is something about adding like overalls hardware or jeans hardware to a make like this that just, like, takes it over the edge from looking more homemade to looking more professional, ready-to-wear finish. So definitely a way to, like, up your sewing game a little bit.

Helen: Yeah, and they’re really not that hard to install. Like, the button is the hardest part, and then the slider you just slide right on there. So maybe a little bulky, but you can, you can wrestle it on there.

Caroline: And jeans buttons and rivets are a little bit more challenging maybe than overalls hardware, but still definitely doable. You just need a hammer and a hard surface that won’t be damaged by the hammering. The back of a cast iron skillet works really well. Or you can get the cutest little anvil for your sewing room. They are adorable and small and I love them so much. We sell them at Blackbird. You can also get overalls hardware and jeans hardware and all that stuff at Blackbird.

Helen: Oh, you know what? That should have been on our gift list at the top of the show. Mini anvil?

Caroline: It’s true! Oh my gosh, mini anvil! I could make a whole business just talking about anvils, to be honest.

Helen: Love to Anvil. Okay, most overalls patterns can be hacked into a pinafore, as we mentioned earlier. Such a cute look. Adding a skirt can be as simple as slashing the pattern where you want the waist to be and adding a rectangle of gathered fabric. Or you could mash up the pattern with a skirt pattern that you like. Keep in mind that this will be easiest for loose fitting overalls and skirt patterns. You can still do it with more fitted styles, but you’ll need to add closures potentially, like a button or a zipper. And the side seams are a good place to put that. We have an article on our blog about how to make a ruby overalls pinafore and it’s quite simple to take the legs and just chop off that crotch curve and make a skirt.

Caroline: Cute. Okay, one last thing before we move on to jumpsuits. Be prepared to get a lot of compliments because people love overalls.

Helen: Oh my gosh, do they ever. I swear, every time I wear my Yanta Overalls out in public, somebody asks me where I bought them. Every time. It’s amazing.

Caroline: I love it.

Helen: Yeah, you will get so many compliments, which just makes it all the more worth it.

Caroline: Okay, it’s time for a break. And when we return: jumpsuits!

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Caroline: We’re back with jumpsuits. Let’s talk about it.

Helen: Yes, let’s talk about it. Jumpsuits also run the gamut when it comes to fit, function, and fabric. There’s so many options out there, from oversized mechanic-style boilersuits to flowy, beautiful rayon playsuits. And there are even knit jumpsuits, the ultimate in comfort.

Caroline: Jumpsuits can make an excellent special occasion outfit. They’re great for performing on stage, attending a wedding, or going to Frocktails or prom. It’s a cool opportunity to use a unique fabric or a large-scale print. Just like overalls, people love jumpsuits. You’re going to get all the compliments.

Helen: Yes. I love wearing a jumpsuit to a wedding. Slightly unexpected, and you’re even more comfortable. It’s just the best.

Caroline: I know! You kind of feel like the coolest person there, I feel like, when you’re wearing a jumpsuit and everyone else is wearing a dress.

Helen: Yeah, or just like, anytime you’re wearing a jumpsuit, the coolness factor is upped for sure.

Caroline: Yeah, definitely.

Helen: Okay, so here’s some options to think about when you’re shopping for a jumpsuit pattern. Do you want the fit to be tight or loose? A super fitted jumpsuit is going to be a little more challenging to fit, but it can be such a showstopper. A looser jumpsuit that maybe cinches at the waist with an elastic will be better if you’re in the mood for a quick project, and it will also be super comfy to wear.

Caroline: Do you want sleeves or would you prefer a tank style? Shorts or pants? Elastic waist, fitted waist, loose waist? All questions you should be asking.

Helen: Yes, and some patterns even have multiple options, which is nice, like a pants view and a shorts view, or maybe sleeved and sleeveless. So you can make one view this summer and the next view next summer.

Caroline: Yeah. Here are some indie jumpsuit patterns to think about. The Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory is the perfect combo of relaxed and chic. This one has a wrap bodice and closes with a tie belt, so you don’t have to worry about zippers or buttons. I’ve seen so many gorgeous versions of this one on Instagram. Definitely check out the hashtag. I would call this another sewing community cult favourite. It goes up to a 57.5” hip. I feel like this pattern works so well for different styles. Like you can make it in a gorgeous viscose print and wear it to a wedding. You can make it in linen and wear it on a Saturday. Like, it runs the gamut.

Helen: Absolutely. I am a huge fan of this pattern. I’ve made many and it’s just so comfortable. I really, really enjoy this one. We’ve talked about the Blanca Flight Suit a little bit by Closet Core. This one has more of that boilersuit vibe. It has a collar, it’s got set-in sleeves, a zip down the front, plus all this great top stitching details, porkchop pockets, and a self fabric belt. I love the details on this one. It goes up to a 63” hip.

Caroline: The Nova Jumpsuit by True Bias is a knit tank jumpsuit. You can cinch it with elastic at the waist or you can leave it loose. This is the ultimate in loungewear and it goes up to a 59.5” hip.

Helen: Another personal favourite of mine is the Amy Jumpsuit by Closet Core. This one is like secret pants. Because it’s like a flowy tank with really wide legs. If you’re standing still someone might mistake it for a dress. But then you start walking and the pants start flowing and it’s just so gorgeous. You can belt it or leave it loose. It’s a really nice one for dressing up and a great one for going on vacation. This one goes up to a 48” hip.

Caroline: The Tate Romper, this is a newer pattern by Small Museum and Jessilou’s Closet. This is so fun. It has a bandeau bodice and spaghetti straps and then big gathered pant legs. It’s cuter than I’m making it sound. I think this one could be casual in a linen gingham or dressy in, like, a solid Tencel twill. It goes up to a 65” hip. It’s super trendy. I don’t know, I’ve been seeing this style of romper all over the place and I’ve seen some amazing versions in the sewing community. It’s a really cool pattern.

Helen: Yeah, this one, like, blew up last summer and I feel like this summer is going to be even more versions of this one. It’s very popular and it’s so cute and looks crazy comfortable, let’s be honest.

Caroline: Yeah, it’s another one of those ones that you can’t really tell, like, is it a dress? Is it a jumpsuit? What’s happening, you know?

Helen: Mmhmm. And it looks so elegant because it has that bandeau top and then it’s almost like this columnar silhouette where the fabric just drapes down from there. So it’s just, like, ultra comfy and so elegant looking. Great for a wedding also. The Kielo Jumpsuit by Named has this really cool wrap detail that ties at the front. It’s designed for two-way stretch knits, but it’s definitely not loungewear. It looks really fancy if you make it in the right knit. Great for when you want to look dressed up, but still be really comfy. That one goes up to a 55.9” hip.

Caroline: Now let’s talk about fabrics. A lot of the overalls fabrics we talked about are kind of the same for jumpsuits. I think the main difference is that jumpsuits in general are made with lighter weight fabrics. That’s because most jumpsuits have less of a utility vibe to them. There’s a lot of crossover between fabrics that are good for dresses and fabrics that are good for jumpsuits, but there are a couple of things to keep in mind here.

Helen: Yes. Choose a fabric that’s tightly woven enough so that it won’t pull apart at that crotch seam. This isn’t a problem with dresses because the seams aren’t as stressed, but with pants you want to keep this in mind so when you’re sitting, bending over, it’s gonna hold the stitches in that area and you won’t have a wardrobe malfunction issue. Double gauze and chiffon are probably not good choices for a jumpsuit. Linen, twill, and chambray are all better choices because they have that stable kind of weave.

Caroline: Yeah, and another thing to keep in mind is that jumpsuits usually aren’t fully lined and it’s not easy to wear a slip under them So unless you want a sheer look you want to make sure that your fabric is super opaque.

Helen: Yeah, you could always wear, like, those bike short kind of style undies underneath. That would be a good way to wear a slip without wearing a slip and achieve that if your fabric’s transparent. But ultimately, who wants transparent pants? Not me.

Caroline: Yeah, not me either.

Helen: Another fabric type you’ll see a lot more in jumpsuits is knits. It’s pretty rare to see knit overalls, but there’s definitely knit jumpsuits out there. Make sure to choose knits that have good recovery. That usually means at least 5% spandex. And recovery is when the knit kind of snaps back after it’s stretched. So knits that don’t have good recovery can bag out, leaving you with that droopy butt situation.

Caroline: Nobody wants a droopy butt. If you choose a heavier weight fabric for a sleeved jumpsuit, it’s going to be warm. So, kind of like wearing jeans and a jacket, but you can’t take the jacket off, quite literally. So you might not get to wear it all year round. Same goes for lighter fabrics in the wintertime. So just keep that in mind.

Helen: For shorter summer playsuits, fun colours and prints are so great because it doesn’t cover you from top to toe. So you can choose really bold stuff without it being overwhelming. Longer jumpsuits are a longer swath of fabric, so keep that in mind when you’re fabric shopping. For classic boilersuits, try, again, those darker neutrals. It can get a tad, like, clown-esque if you choose a really brightly coloured print, but it’s also, like, an amazing, show-stopping, unique look. So if you have a vision for where you’re going to wear that, then power to you.

Caroline: I take offense to that, Helen. I’m joking. I actually, my Blanca Flight Suit is in what I think is a bold, bright, floral, kind of 70s vibe print. And when we were designing that print, I remember from the jump, I was like, this is the colour I’m going to buy. This is what I want to make with it. Like, I absolutely knew it was perfect for a flight suit. But to each their own. Like, if you know that you’re not going to wear a bright printed boilersuit often enough to make that amount of work worth it, then maybe pick something more neutral that’s going to get more wear because it does take a lot of effort to make a full-on, like, boilersuit flight suit vibe.

Helen: Yeah, exactly. Whereas making like a little rayon summer romper would be a lot more of a quick sew and you probably get a lot of wear out of it in a bolder print during the summer months. And that’s, kind of, for a very specific season, right? Okay, let’s talk fitting with jumpsuits. I mean, even more than overalls, jumpsuits need to be fitted. So again, you’re gonna want to make a muslin. Jumpsuits are complicated because you have to fit the top and the pants, plus you have to make sure they’re meeting at the right point on your torso.

Caroline: When you’re choosing your size, look at where your measurements fall on the chart. You’re likely going to be a different size on the top and the bottom of your body. Grading between sizes is a totally normal part of the fitting process. Cashmerette has a good guide on their website that will show you how to do it. So we’ll link that up in the show notes. You got this.

Helen: And when you’re starting to fit your muslin, make adjustments one at a time starting at the top of the garment and moving down. Fit the bodice without the pants attached and then maybe attach the pants when you’re ready to start making adjustments there.

Caroline: Length adjustments are important with jumpsuits. Too short and it’s wedgie city over there. And too long and it’s droopy butt city. These are not cities we want to visit, people!

Helen: I don’t want to go there. Either of those places.

Caroline: No. But the goal with the fitting process is to have the bust point, waist, and crotch hitting you in the correct places for your body. So look out for that and take the time that you need to get that fit right. It will absolutely be worth it.

Helen: Mmhmm. So there are three main length adjustments to keep in mind. The first is shortening or lengthening the bodice above the darts or bust point. The bust point is the fullest part of your bust, usually located about an inch inward from the dart. If the bust point is too high on you, you might need to lengthen the bodice above the darts. If it’s too low, you might need to shorten it above the darts. You might also just need to move the dart, but these are all things you want to consider when you’re looking at that bust point.

Caroline: The second adjustment to check for is lengthening or shortening the bodice below the darts. When you’re trying on your muslin, make sure the seam line at the bottom of the bodice is hitting you at the right place. If it’s not, you wanna shorten or lengthen the bodice below the darts. And then you can attach the pants and start fitting them.

Helen: The last length adjustment to check for is the pants rise. If you need to lengthen the rise, you’ll know because either the pants will be giving you a wedgie or they’ll be pulling down from the top. If you need to shorten the rise, the crotch will be super dropped and feel like it’s hanging out in between your thighs.

Caroline: Yeah, I think some patterns have like a bit more of a dropped crotch. I’m thinking of the Zadie Jumpsuit in particular, but it kind of works because you’re often making that pattern out of a drapier fabric and having that, sort of like, range of movement is really nice and comfortable. So it’ll definitely depend on the pattern that you’re using, I think.

Helen: And your personal preference. You definitely want to make sure you move around in your muslin, because jumpsuits can be a little bit restrictive in your movement. So bend over, sit down, walk around, crouch, make sure you can pick something up off the floor to make sure that it has enough ease for you to move around comfortably. That’s when you might notice that you need to lengthen that rise. If you try to bend over and there’s just, you know, like, your shoulders are pulling back and you just can’t.

Caroline: Oh my gosh, Helen, I’m starting to think that my flight suit might not fit me quite right because I have this distinct memory of, like, dropping a pen in front of my team and having to pick it up. And it was extremely embarrassing because I could barely reach it.

Helen: Gosh, that’s so funny. But like, it looks amazing when you’re standing.

Caroline: Yeah. I know it looks incredible. What can I say?

Helen: Worth it. Totally worth it.

Caroline: Worth it. For more complex jumpsuits though, you definitely want to give yourself time. A flight suit or fitted jumpsuit is not a quick project. So break it up into sections and you can totally tackle it.

Helen: Yes, you absolutely can. Caroline, this episode’s got me so excited about our jumpsuit pattern that’s coming out. Can I tell you a little bit about it?

Caroline: Yes. Tell me. If it’s not out by now, it will be soon. So you gotta plug it.

Helen: We’re aiming for like, April, May launch. So, you know, maybe it will be out now, but it will be coming soon. And it’s called Lockhart. It has a fitted bodice with princess seams and spaghetti strap or wide strap options. A fitted waist, and then you can either do pants or a skirt. So there’s a dress view as well. And I think this pattern is just absolutely perfect for wedding guest attire, maybe even bridal attire. Those special moments like prom or Frocktails, things like that. Or you can make it more casual as well, but it’s just like a great kind of neutral jumpsuit that you can build upon. You know, we love a good wearable basic.

Caroline: Yes, I love this pattern so much. I’ve seen you wear it a few times and it looks incredible on you. I know you’ve been working on it for a while and it’s one of those labours of love that you’re gonna feel so good when it’s out in the world and you get to see people making it. And I love the name. I feel like it’s so fitting, because it is the perfect garment to wear as a wedding guest. And Lockhart, I mean, come on!

Helen: Lockhart! I know.

Caroline: Is there a double meaning there? I don’t know.

Helen: I love it for, I mean, I wore it to every wedding I attended last summer, which is what inspired me to give it that name and to make sure that there was both dress and pants views because I enjoyed wearing both dresses and jumpsuits to the wedding. And so there’s so many different options and so many different lengths for both the pants and the skirt. So it’s really, like, super customizable.

Caroline: Yay! I can’t wait for that to come out. All of this chat makes me want to move like all of my overalls and jumpsuits to the front of my closet. I feel like I’m gonna look amazing this week.

Helen: Me too! I’m totally gonna dig out all of my crazy printed overalls and just wear them. Caution to the wind!

Caroline: I feel like maybe the week that this episode comes out, I might kick myself for saying this, but we should wear, like, only overalls and jumpsuits. No?

Helen: Yes! Absolutely we should. Let’s do it.

Caroline: Let’s do it. That’s it for today’s episode of Love to Sew. You can find me, Caroline, at Blackbird Fabrics and BF Patterns and Helen at Helen’s Closet Patterns and Cedar Quilt Co. And we’re recording today in beautiful British Columbia, Canada.

Helen: You can support Love to Sew and get access to bonus content by subscribing on Patreon or Apple Podcasts. You even get access to the back catalogue of bonus episodes. That’s over 75 hours of Love to Sew. Go to patreon.com/lovetosew or check out our podcast page on Apple Podcasts for more info.

Caroline: You can head to lovetosewpodcast.com to find our show notes. They’re filled with links and pictures from this episode. And if you’d like to get in touch with us, leave us a message at 1-844-SEW-WHAT. That’s 1-844-739-9428. Or send us an email at hello@lovetosewpodcast.com.

Helen: Thanks to our amazing podcast team. Lisa Ruiz is our creative assistant, Jordan Moore of the Pod Cabin is our editor. And thank you for listening! We will talk to you next week.

Caroline: Buh-bye.

Helen: Bye.

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