Community,
Helen & Caroline,
48 MINS

Episode 255: Budget Sewing

April 01, 2024

We share four big strategies for saving money on sewing, with lots of helpful tips from our listeners. You can make amazing things without spending a lot – or anything at all!


The transcript for this episode is on this page at the end of the show notes.

Show Notes: 

Previous Episodes Mentioned:

Photos:

Helen’s Denim Patchwork Dress for Re-Fashioners 2016

Helen’s Colourblocked Brooks Jeans Shorts

Helen’s Scrap Busted Ilford Jacket

Hannah’s Costa Tote pattern, printed on the back of “incomprehensible archaeology information”!

WithWendy’s Chanel-Inspired Blanket Upcycle

Learning Resources:

Sites for Buying Secondhand Materials or Getting Them for Free:

Other Mentions:

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Transcript:

Helen: We are recording today on the traditional, ancestral, and unceded territories of the Coast Salish and Kwakwaka’wakw peoples, including Tsleil-Waututh, Squamish, Musqueam, and K’ómoks first nations.

Caroline: Hello and welcome to Love to Sew. I’m Caroline, the owner of Blackbird Fabrics and BF Patterns.

Helen: And I’m Helen, the designer behind Helen’s Closet Patterns and Cedar Quilt Co.

Caroline: We’re two sewing buds who love to sew and it’s literally all we want to talk about.

Helen: Today’s episode is about sewing on a budget. We share four big strategies for saving money with lots of help from our listeners. You can make amazing things without spending a lot. Or anything at all!

Caroline: If you love to sew, this is your show. Hello, Helen!

Helen: Hi Caroline!

Caroline: How are you?

Helen: I’m good, how are you?

Caroline: I’m pretty good. I’m pretty good, Excited to talk about budget sewing today.

Helen: I know, I love saving money.

Caroline: Me too!

Helen: Yeah, we got so many great tips from our listeners and it was really fun to hear about all the different ways that people out there make sewing work for their budget.

Caroline: Yeah, honestly, I learned so much from this episode, so I feel like we should just dive in.

Helen: Yeah, let’s do it. Okay, welcome to the Budget Sewing Academy. We put a call out for budget sewing tips on our social media and we got great responses from our listeners. It was really cool hearing all of their tips and we’ve grouped all the advice into four main strategies for budget sewing. So each section has some general advice followed by a bunch of actionable specific tips that you can take.

Caroline: Helen, I want to know how you would rate your budget sewing ability between 1 and 10, 10 being a budget sewing master.

Helen: Okay, well, I’m definitely not a master. I would say maybe a 4. I mean, I buy a lot of fabric and notions new because I love fabric shopping, and I also run a business, so I need supplies. And I’ve gotten into quilt fabrics lately with the quilting side of things. So that’s a whole other world of fabric consumption, and it’s so much fun to buy quilting fabrics. So I’m trying as hard as I can to limit that, but you know, it’s, it’s hard. You can relate, right?

Caroline: Especially when it’s something that’s fairly new. I mean, I guess you have been quilting for a couple of years now, right? But new enough that it still is, like, shiny, exciting. You probably are discovering new fabric lines all the time and tools that you need. So yeah, it must be difficult to rein it in sometimes.

Helen: Oh yeah, and there’s always new fabric in the quilting world. It’s like, every season there’s new collections and it’s just so exciting. So yeah, I’ve been trying as hard as I can to keep that to a minimum, but of course it’s very, very exciting to buy the new fabrics. But when I started out sewing, when I got back into sewing in my early 20s and when I was starting my business, Helen’s Closet, I was a lot more resourceful. I was definitely using bed sheets for muslins, even when I was starting my business. I was sewing on a used sewing machine that somebody gave me that had just been sitting in their closet. And that was what I used for the first few years running my business. And I was shopping at discount fabric stores and discount sections and trying to just get my hands on all the materials I could so that I could actually run the business. So I have a bit of a background in budget sewing, but these days I am buying more virgin goods. But I’m bumping myself up to a 4 on this scale because I do really enjoy saving all my leftovers and my scraps. So I love keeping track of all of them, keeping them organized, and so they’re ready to be used. And I really like making patchwork projects and kids’ clothes and other smaller, like, home decor items. I also love refashioning garments when I don’t like wearing them anymore, like turning them into something else. So I have a bit of a money saving streak for sure. How about you?

Caroline: when I read this question, I’ve, I kind of felt like I should be disqualified because I feel like my circumstances are not necessarily, like, relatable or common for people in the sewing community. But I have owned a fabric store for 10 years, so I almost never pay out-of-pocket for fabrics and notions and sewing supplies. So I feel like I, I don’t get to rate myself in this. But. If I, like, counted up my fabric purchases from my own business and, sort of, looked at those from a budget perspective, I would be, like, a 1.

Helen: That’s fair.

Caroline:I bring home a lot of fabric, probably too much, and I am so lucky to have access to the fabrics that I do. That is definitely not lost on me. But I’m still super stoked to learn about folks’ budget sewing tips because I know it’s a topic our listeners are super interested in.

Helen: Oh, definitely. They’re so excited. I think people are going to learn a lot from this episode. And no matter how good you are at budget sewing, like there’s always more to learn. Even just simple things to save you a little bit here and there. Fun things that you can do that just kind of, like, I don’t know, you game the system a little bit. It’s exciting.

Caroline: Totally. Okay, I feel like we should start this episode. Let’s get into the meat of it. Our first big strategy for sewing on a budget is: Use what you have.

Helen: It sounds kind of obvious, but shopping your stash is underrated. It is like shopping in a store that only carries stuff that you like, and it’s free. I mean, I know it’s actually not free because I paid money for it at some point, but Current Me doesn’t have to pay anything to use the fabric that Past Me bought. So, ergo: free.

Caroline: Yeah. Linda said, “When I’m in the mood to start something, I first look at my stash and then go to the web and get ideas with that in mind.” And this is a great way to save money. I love Linda’s idea, suggestion here. If you usually start by finding the pattern you want and then shopping for fabric to match it, try switching that around. Look at your stash first, pick a fabric you’re excited about, and then find a pattern to match.

Helen: Yes. Ann said, “I have big hopes to sew down all my stash this year. Garments and quilts, even wreaths and Christmas ornaments and gifts. The only money I want or need to spend is to have my sewing machine serviced.”

Caroline: Yeah, this is next level stash shopping. But if you don’t want to go as hardcore as Ann, you could shop your stash for every second project you make, or maybe every third.

Helen: Yeah, I’ve heard of people setting up these kind of ratios or formulas so that they’re getting a little bit of new fabric every once in a while, but there’s more going out than coming in.

Caroline: Yeah. Another strategy is to use your stash fabrics in unexpected ways. So, Mary said, “I’m making a quilted jacket for my daughter and instead of buying batting, I found a sad looking mid weight knit with a stable stretch in my stash. It’s working beautifully in place of the batting and I never would have used it for a shirt or pants.”

Helen: Ooh, I love this! Especially for a fabric that you aren’t in love with anymore. You can use those fabrics for toiles or batting, maybe sew-in interfacing that will be hidden in a lining…or a lining for that matter. I mean, you’re not going to see it that often. It’s on the inside. Maybe just use a cotton that you’re not that into anymore.

Caroline: Mmhmm. Okay, Heather said, “This fall I planned a collection based on Alexandra Morgan’s August 2023 YouTube videos for which I used only “fabric pantry” aka stash fabric and existing patterns. I’m halfway through making a group of garments which coordinates. Planning it makes me view my fabric with new eyes.”

Helen: Oh, we love a capsule challenge. I think something like this can really refresh your excitement about your stash fabrics and patterns. For some reason, stash fabrics can seem a little dull next to the fabric waiting in your online shopping cart. But I need to remember that I was excited when I bought my stash too. Helen: So there’s got to be stuff in there that i’m excited about now still.

Caroline: I also love the concept of a fabric pantry.

Helen: Yes! It makes it feel even more useful too because we all love our pantries, right? They’re full of all these delicious things, great things that we need for cooking on a daily basis. So thinking of it like that almost makes it feel, yeah, like something you want to look at more often.

Caroline: And, similar to a pantry, sometimes you might forget about, like, that can of beans at the back of your pantry. And then one day, you’re going to need it, and you’re going to be glad you have it.

Helen: What is the equivalent of a can of beans? Like a, black linen.

Caroline: Yeah. Something basic and reliable.

Helen: Yeah, totally. Heather also wrote, “I have a loose-leaf notebook documenting my fabric pantry and a small sample of the fabric taped on next to the fiber content, size, amount remaining if partially used, and where and when I bought or got it. This has prompted me to shop my pantry.” Ooh, you can just browse, like a book.

Caroline: Yeah, knowing what’s in your stash is the key to using it. And Heather sounds like she has a really good system. And we go over some other ways of keeping track of your stash in Episode 185: Fabric Stash Organization.

Helen: Another great way to use what you have is to make do with the thread and notions in your stash. For example, Lisbeth said, “Don’t buy overlock thread in every colour. My fabric store salesperson recommended just one off-white and one off-black, like a dark gray, four cones each. That is perfect. I bought them four years ago and I haven’t had to buy overlock thread since.”

Caroline: Similarly, @sandy_piper said, “I only replace the fourth serger cone when working with a different colour fabric. And even then, only if I’m working with a fabric that my white serger thread will show through when the fabric is stretched. It’s a little weird on the inside, but on the outside, you can only see the second needle stitch anyways.”

Helen: Ooh, it’s so true. White, gold, and grey are all versatile colours to use for your looper threads, even the main stitch threads. Even if you’re sewing on a regular machine, sometimes a good-enough thread match works just fine, especially if you have a busy print going on. A compromise is to use a thread that doesn’t match on the seams for the construction and seam finishes, and then you can switch to a thread that matches for the topstitching. This is a great way to reduce waste and the number of spools rolling around in your sewing box. I really need to do this, just, like, keep them next to my machine and keep feeding them in for construction. So I just use them all up. Amd then I love the idea of just saving the matching thread for the top stitching.

Caroline: Mmhmm. Yeah, it’s such a good idea. Following that thread…eh? Eh? Eh? See what I did there? Di said, “Use coned thread on the sewing machine! Pop it in a mug or make a wooden block with a piece of dowel in it.” Great idea.

Helen: Yes! Okay, did you all know that you could do this? There are thread stands out there that you can buy. It’s basically like a stick on a stand. You place the cone next to your machine, the stick sticks up from there, and then you can thread your machine because it’s got like a little stand that’s holding the thread up high enough to thread it. But if you don’t want to buy a thread stand, you can just put a cone into a mug or some kind of vessel that will hold it upright. To feed the thread through the top of the machine, tape a safety pin onto your machine near the top with the bottom end sticking up, and then you can feed your thread through the loop and through the rest of your machine. Jan Howell has a video on YouTube that will show you how to do this. And this means even if you don’t have a serger, if you find a good deal on thread cones, you can use those in your regular machine. And I wanted to say, similarly, you can use regular thread spools in your serger for doing that trick where you’re just changing that one spool. You might have just a regular thread that matches perfectly. You can pop that in there.

Caroline: Yeah, totally. Di had another tip for using what you have. “Use household things rather than buying expensive gadgets, like a wooden rolling pin wrapped with a tea towel for a seam roll, silicone baking mat for fusing, or matte magic tape under the foot rather than a Teflon foot.”

Helen: Those are all great suggestions. Of course, if a tool makes your life easier and you can afford it, then you can go for it. They’re often not too pricey. But if you can’t afford it, it totally makes sense to use what you have around the house. This tip reminds me of our Surprising Gadgets and Guidance episode. There were all kinds of creative ways to use non-sewing stuff for sewing. Like, I’ll never forget the idea of using cutlery for pattern weights. Like, just throw a bunch of knives and forks down there. You’re good.

Caroline: Yeah. Yeah. So you can use so many things for pattern weights. I love it.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: Sometimes you want to use what you have, but mainly what you have is scraps. Scrap busting is another challenge that can really build your sewjo. It feels like taking a bunch of nothing and making it into a wonderful something. And we have a couple of episodes that are all about busting scraps. We’ll link those for you in the show notes. But our listeners had some other suggestions that we loved.

Helen: Joy wrote, “For quilting, I love to piece smaller pieces of batting together to make the size that I need.” Okay, this is a great tip. I’ve heard this in the quilting world called franken-batting, which makes sense because it looks kind of Frankenstein-esque with all these seams and zigzags. Batting is expensive, but you can but the pieces up next to each other and zigzag stitch over the place where they meet. Just make sure your stitches aren’t stretching the batting out and making the seam kind of wavy. You obviously want everything to be as flat as possible. You could also hand sew the pieces together with long whip stitches. Another method is to use fusible web to attach strips of fabric over the joins. And then, of course, once it’s in your quilt, you’re stitching all over the top. So that’s going to hold everything in place nicely. So this is a really great way to use up all of those scraps.

Caroline: Mmhmm. And Theresa wrote, “If you want to sew something but don’t want to use a lot of fabric, try sewing underwear. There are many great sewing patterns for both knits and woven fabrics. You can use jersey scraps, you can use silk or lace scraps. Sewing your own underwear is a really rewarding experience that doesn’t have to cost a lot of time or money. Also, batch sewing is really easy.”

Helen: This sounds like a really fun way to scrap bust. Sewing undies could also be handy if you only have money in the budget to buy a little amount of fabric, but you still want to get your sewing done. And similarly, bra sewing requires very little fabric. A little bit more specialty fabric, but still, small amounts. And the notions can be taken off of old bras you already own or old bras from the thrift store. Those, like, sliders and rings and even the back clasps often are still in pretty good shape.

Caroline: Yeah. love that idea.

Helen: Okay, Martha wrote, “I have a couple of draft excluders from legs of old jeans stuffed with fabric scraps. It looks a little kooky to have a single leg stretched out against a door, but I like it.”

Caroline: This is so cute. For those who don’t know, draft excluders are like thin, long bolster pillows that you put in front of a drafty door to keep air from coming in. I think stuffing it with scraps is a great idea because draft excluders have to be kind of heavy to stay in place, and scraps can be heavy when you stuff them into things. And if you don’t want to use jeans, you could use a different stash fabric, upcycle a garment you don’t want to wear anymore, or make patchwork pieces with your scraps. I really do love the idea of a leg though.

Helen: A leg. Yeah.

Caroline: It’s just so cute.

Helen: I, confession, keep all of my jeans and Sam’s old jeans because I love making denim projects using leftovers from jeans. I’ve made a few on the blog. We can put them in the show notes. So I have a little pile of used jeans where the crotch has, like, been mended too many times, or they just don’t fit anymore. So I could totally make some draft excluders.

Caroline: Yeah. Totally. Okay, another way to use what you have is to use your patterns more than once. Agata noted that this lowers the cost per item. And that’s totally true. If you pay $15 for a pattern and use it once, the pattern costs $15. But if you use it three times, it spreads out to $5 for every time you use it.

Helen: Oh, that’s a great way of thinking about it. I like that. Heather wrote, “Pattern hacking is my budget sewing tip. Find what you most like to wear, then pick a hackable pattern or a pattern that has several style options. It’s amazing how different the same pattern can look when made up in different fabrics or with minor hacks such as added frill or something like that. Saves a fortune.” Oh, Heather, you’re speaking my language.

Caroline: Yes, totally, you can use the same pattern and make really different-looking garments. Even the same view of a pattern can have a whole different feel in a different fabric. But when you think of all the hacks you could do, you can make a whole wardrobe with just a few patterns.

Helen: Yes, oh yes. Preach. This is why we love to design wearable basics at Helen’s Closet and then we share hacks for them on our blog. Because I love having that great straightforward view of a garment just nailed down. It’s perfect as is, doesn’t have a lot of, like, bells and whistles. And then explore ways to customize it by adding those different details or changing it from a top into a dress or adding pants to make a jumpsuit. I mean, really, the world is your oyster when it comes to this stuff. So I’m totally on board.

Caroline: Mmhmm. Okay, our second big strategy for sewing on a budget is just to buy less. I know it sounds like, “Duh, of course.” But if it’s so simple then why do so many of us struggle with this? Let’s talk about some of the habits that you can build to buy less.

Helen: So, Jackie says, “Don’t buy the fabric until you’re ready to make the item. Seriously, don’t even buy the notions that you’re going to need. I don’t always keep this rule, but it does save me a lot of money. You’re a creative, of course you’re going to have a million ideas. You’re going to want to make a garment out of everything. But taking it one project at a time has really helped me and my wallet.”

Caroline: Yeah, I love this advice. This would both keep your stash manageable and save you money. Plus you wouldn’t lose your excitement as the fabric, notions, and pattern languish in your stash. Hard relate. And you could ride that sewjo wave all the way to the shore.

Helen: I love that. Yeah, I feel like everyone can relate to this. Like, you start to feel guilty for not sewing the thing that you set out to sew. Sometimes you just forget what you were doing with that fabric. I mean…

Caroline: Mmhmm. I know. And I love the win-win of having a small stash. It takes up less space in your home. There’s less of that, like, mental struggle of knowing that you have all that stuff that you need to get through. So it’s totally a win-win.

Helen: Totally. The fabric store Cross and Woods had another suggestion for buying less. They said, “The best money-saving on fabric tip we always tell our customers: cut your pattern pieces out first, lay them on the table or floor, and measure how much fabric you actually need. Patterns will mostly size up, and by laying it all out on the right size on the width of your desired fabric, you might lose up to half a meter. You can also find out which pattern pieces can be done in scrap fabric, things like pockets, facings, or you can get what you need by piecing things together. This is going to save you money, fabric, and heaps of must-do scrap projects because you end up with loads of fabric remnants if you just follow the cutting layouts provided with the pattern.”

Caroline: Mmhmm. There’s something really satisfying about being able to fit a garment out of way less fabric than you think you need. Especially if you’re using a stash fabric that you want to get through versus buying something new, right?

Helen: Oh, definitely. It’s a great idea. I’ve seen people do this by putting painter’s tape on the floor or a table in the width of the fabric and then doing their layout. Having, like, a taped-out area is really helpful just to visualize what you’re working with. And I will definitely attest, as pattern designers, it’s so true. We add a little extra fabric for wiggle room in case of shrinkage or a difference in the fabric width. I mean, we don’t want you to end up with too little. That’s, like, the worst case scenario, right? You don’t have enough. So we always want you to have extra. And we don’t squeeze the pieces right next to each other like you would when you’re actually cutting things out. We don’t seize those opportunities to, kind of, like, just get something right next to another piece. Because, again, you never know, a slight difference in the width of fabric, and all of a sudden, that piece doesn’t fit. And also, we have to provide layouts and fabric requirements that work for multiple sizes. Otherwise, that section of the booklet would be like 20 pages long, right? So it’s just not feasible to do that. So that’s why there’s always a little extra. And it’s true, there always is a little extra. So this is a great way to save on fabric.

Caroline: Definitely. Another way to buy less is to make a capsule wardrobe. A capsule wardrobe is like a set of clothes that can be all matched together to make different outfits, like a mix-and-match situation. That way you end up needing fewer garments overall. So Deb said, “I decide on my capsule wardrobe for the upcoming season, then buy fabrics in one go. Generally from one or two suppliers max. This not only reduces postal costs, but also stops me from buying fabrics on a whim because I have everything I need to make the season’s garments already.”

Helen: Ooh, this sounds like such a fun idea. I think I would love the planning process especially. And you could incorporate garments you already have into the plan as well, or try to make some things that are going to be multi-season appropriate. I have a friend who does this, and she always makes very seasonal wardrobe capsules. So, like, in autumn, everything is orange and red and brown and, like, cozy. And then in spring, everything is bright and fun. And it’s just really cool to watch her process and to see the things that she comes up with to make. And I think that can be really inspiring.

Caroline: Yeah, no, it’s so cute. I love this idea.

Helen: Okay, we all know that media and advertising can make it hard to buy less. Some of our listeners commented saying they realized that they were being negatively affected by it and they needed to tune out. So, Cherry said, “ Media and groups made me too critical and obsessive. Just realizing that I was caught in a never ending cash-grab was all I needed to stop the gathering. I took a break from sewing, and I’m beginning to see it with new eyes. I want to sew like they did in the old days, not knowing what others are doing or thinking so that I can hear my thoughts. I need a hole-up phase, and with that, I anticipate using what I have and being more creative on my own. And I think that’s going to feel really good.”

Caroline: It makes so much sense that if you’re spending more than you want to, you should take a step back and really ask yourself how you’re being affected. If it’s not a factor in overspending for you, that’s totally fine. And we don’t have any issue with social media and advertising, but we totally support anyone who feels like they want to tune it out so that they can hear their inner voice.

Helen: Oh, definitely. I can relate to this. I mean, anyone who’s spent any time on social media can relate to this, right? So, in a similar way, @bodkins4everyone wrote, “Not really frugal per se, but last year I unsubscribed from all the sewing and fabric emails I was getting. It really made a difference for how much fabric and patterns I bought last year, which was none. And I have a very healthy fabric stash and tons of patterns I haven’t used yet. I just had to turn off the temptation to buy more.”

Caroline: And this is a really good strategy. It’s easy to unsubscribe and resubscribe to emails. So subscribe when you want to and unsubscribe when you want to. It might be the key to working through your stash.

Helen: Okay, one of the most exciting ways to spend less is to get stuff for free!

Caroline: Yes! Okay, so Danielle said, “My library has sewing books that I can borrow. They often have patterns. I just trace off my size and write out the instructions for myself. Ahead of the Curve by Jenny Rushmore has been my favourite. Great expanse of fitting information and a good size range in the patterns.”

Helen: Oh, so smart! Definitely check out your local library’s resources. They might have sewing books that include patterns or a subscription to a magazine with patterns like Burda. You can also ask a librarian how to request books. The library can buy the book if you’re interested in it for their collection. And then other people can enjoy it for free too. And, of course, do what Danielle does and trace the pattern and leave it in a good condition so that other people can do the same.

Caroline: Totally. my gosh, it’s so true. Imagine if you get the book and somebody has already cut out their size or something. That’d be really sad.

Helen: I’m sure it’s happened.

Caroline: Chickie suggested “letting people know you accept extra fabric and hand-me-downs you can use for fabric, notions, and equipment.” Okay, this is such a great idea. You’d be surprised how many people have inherited sewing stuff that they don’t know what to do with. Or people with big stashes of their own that they’re looking to downsize. I know I’ve been there. I also know I’ve been offered sewing things from friends and family over the years. So, it feels like those things are very easily accessible if you’re looking for them. So just put that energy out there.

Helen: If you’re active on, like, Facebook or Instagram, just putting up a post, I’m sure you’ll get some stuff.

Caroline: Yeah, absolutely.

Helen: Similarly, online groups like Buy Nothing or websites like Freegle, Kijiji, Craigslist can be great ways to find free sewing stuff. Inanna said, “Join a local Buy Nothing. You can create ISO posts for fabrics, notions, and even sewing machines. Buy Nothing groups are growing and have a strong ethics of gifting and participating in circular economy.” This is a great suggestion. And by the way, “ISO” means “in search of,” so you don’t have to wait for someone to offer something. You can make a post letting the group members know what you’re looking for.

Caroline: Yeah, I think sometimes when you have things to offer, one of the biggest barriers is, like, actually making a post and putting, like, taking the picture. So if someone were to post, like, “I’m in search of, you know, this type of fabric,” and I knew I wanted to offload that fabric, that would be so convenient for both parties. So I feel like that’s a really good, really good call.

Helen: Definitely. And Buy Nothing groups are fabulous. I know a lot of parents in my life swear by them because people are always exchanging kids’ stuff for different ages and it’s just great that you can have access to that stuff without having to pay for it. It’s like, pay it forward, right?

Caroline: Yeah, totally. Lee said, “I’m part of my local Buy Nothing group. I’m always looking for fabric, sheets, curtains, notions, and sometimes even sewing machines come up. I even got a wedding dress where I was able to reuse the silk fabric for a different project.” What an amazing score, Lee. Oh my gosh. Love this.

Helen: Love that. Samantha says, “I have been lucky enough to find free fabric on Marketplace, Freegle, or cheap in charity shops. Even lots of Christmas jersey given away on local Facebook site of people giving away free stuff.” Oh, yes.

Caroline: We also had listeners talking about in-person groups. Claire said, “Go to sewing meetups. There are often swaps where you can not only donate fabric, patterns, and supplies you’ve fallen out of love with that might catch another sewist’s eye instead, but you can also pick up new-to-you things for free.” This checks so many boxes for me. Meeting local cool sewists: check. Destashing: check. Free sewing supplies: check. Love it.

Helen: Absolutely. Okay, our final suggestion for getting stuff for free is to get free patterns online. There are so many amazing sewists and pattern companies who have published free patterns. We have a whole episode about free sewing that we’ll link in the show notes. Punk Frockers episode 69 is about free patterns, too. Making and Books has a big post with a ton of free patterns linked. And Jess of Broad in the Seams and Muna and Broad has a post of over 100 free plus-size sewing patterns. So there’s a few places to get started there. There’s really just so many great freebies to choose from.

Caroline: Okay, on that note, it’s time for a quick break. Love to Sew is made possible by listeners like YOU! We are so grateful for the support of our amazing patrons and subscribers. If you love Love to Sew and you want to help support the pod, we have a new option for you.

Helen: You can now become a paid subscriber on Apple Podcasts! Subscribers get access to our monthly bonus episodes. It’s so convenient; if you already use Apple Podcasts, the episodes are right there in your feed!

Caroline: So, what are the bonus episodes? Well, we do a chatty catch-up on what’s been happening in our lives, share about the realities of running a small business, discuss new indie pattern releases, and talk about what we’re sewing right now! Many of our subscribers say these fun bonus episodes are their favourite, and if you subscribe, you get access to the full back catalogue. That’s over 75 hours of Love to Sew! We also do a mini-episode that deep dives into a specific topic. We get to discuss so many fun sewing techniques and answer specific subscriber questions about sewing!

Helen: And we are still on Patreon! If you subscribe over there you can get access to the bonus episodes, behind-the-scenes photos, and a special 15% off discount code at our superfan patron tier. That discount applies at Helen’s Closet, Cedar Quilt Co., Blackbird Fabrics, and BF patterns. If you shop with us regularly, it basically pays for itself!
Head to patreon.com/lovetosew to see all perks and options.

Caroline: If you’d like to try out Patreon or Apple podcast subscriptions and check out our bonus content, you can sign up for a free 7-day trial. And, of course, you can help support the show by listening, just like you are right now. You can also leave a review! Reviews really help our show to get discovered by new listeners. We know that financial support isn’t always possible and we want you to know that we love you for listening!

Helen: Go to patreon.com/lovetosew or visit our show’s page in the apple podcast app to become a paid subscriber. Thank you to all of our listeners, patrons and subscribers – you’re the best!

Caroline: And we’re back with more budget sewing ideas. Helen, do you want to tell everyone about our third strategy?

Helen: Our third strategy is: take your time. Take your time deciding what to make. Take your time actually making your projects. See what I’m doing here, Caroline?

Caroline: Yeah, you’re taking your time. I love it.

Helen: Take your time so you can buy your fabric on sale. And extend the life of your projects by mending and altering.

Caroline: Yes, okay, so first let’s talk about how you decide what you want to make. We had some comments from listeners who said that they save money by resisting trends and focusing on their own personal style. I think trends can be fun, but it’s true that sometimes you can get swept up in something that you’ll end up disliking in a year. If this is something that keeps happening to you, defining your personal style will really help. And we have our free Create Your Dream Wardrobe worksheet and our episode where we both work through it. We also have an episode called What’s Your Me-Made Style. That’s super fun. The best part is hearing all the creative names people have come up with for their personal style. Helen, I’m going to remind everyone that yours was “Matisse Painting Come to Life” and “Pacific Northwest Hipster Caught in the Rain,” which, still hilarious.

Helen: It’s still accurate. My summer and winter styles.

Caroline: And mine was “West Coast Gardener on Lunch Break” at home and “Chic Yet Approachable Fabric Mogul at work.” I don’t know, slightly embarrassing, but still accurate.

Helen: We were trying to keep up with our listeners on that one because they came up with the coolest names for their style. It was so fun.

Caroline: But truly, spending some time really thinking about what you want to make and wear is going to help you budget-wise because you’ll be less likely to waste money on something you don’t actually like.

Helen: Yes, and spending more time to make a project special is an underrated way to save money. Making a muslin for good fit, hand basting fiddly steps like inserting zippers, hand finishing the details, that are gonna give you a garment that you love and you want to wear. And if you find yourself speeding through project after project, it actually saves you money to spend more time on each one. Fewer projects, but better ones. And you’re doing an equal amount of what you love, which is sewing.

Caroline: Yes! And if you want patterns, fabric, or a specific tool but it’s not in your budget right now, it pays to be patient. You can sign up for the newsletter of the company you want to shop from so that you keep an eye on the sales. You can set eBay alerts or check Facebook marketplace periodically. You can even set up Facebook marketplace alerts, I believe. And you can check the sales flyer of chain craft stores to see when there’s, like, a $2 pattern sale or a deep discount on the fabric that you’re looking for.

Helen: Another way to take your time with your projects is to mend, alter, and refashion. It’s definitely less expensive to fix a garment or quilt than to replace it. And it’s a great way to show some love to your textiles. Even if you have to buy a couple notions or a small amount of fabric, you’re still going to come out on top financially.

Caroline: Julie said, “I’ve been refashioning some of my clothes and enjoying wearing them all over again. I’ve taken in box tops to be more fitted, changed elbow length, full sleeves to cap sleeves, and taken a dress up a few inches.”

Helen: Ooh, that’s very cool. When I get through my mending and alterations pile, it feels like having a whole new wardrobe. And there’s always so many gems in there and I’m never, like, let down by doing it. It’s amazing the difference a couple inches on a hem can make or chopping the sleeves off of something. It’s just like a whole new world.

Caroline: Yeah, totally. I feel like I will never get through my mending pile, but every time I get one thing done, I feel like I’ve won the lottery, so I just gotta keep chipping away at it.

Helen: Exactly. It is a fun place to go to when you’re in need of a project. And I often forget about my mending pile. ‘Cause it’s not so much a pile; it’s like a bin that’s tucked away somewhere. So it’s good to take a look at it every once in a while.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Okay. Our final big strategy for this episode is to shop smart. Thrift shops and estate sales are great places to find fabric and notions and even sewing machines.

Caroline: Ellie said, “Start with the absolute basics. You don’t need every tool to start. I have a set of tile samples that are both my pattern weights and serve as a clapper pretty well. Also, look for estate sales with sewing supplies. All my best machines, notions, and tools were from estate sales. Just no vintage thread. Buy an old machine with metal gears and you’ll have a workhorse that will last forever. Mine was free off Facebook Marketplace. Do spend your hard earned money to get a tune-up for your new machine.”

Helen: Yes, that’s an amazing find. I agree that estate sales are a great place to find notions. Vintage notions are often really high-quality. As Ellie said, thread is kind of the exception here because it can lose its strength over time. So make sure if you are using old thread that you test it and make sure it’s still strong. I feel like notions always add up way more than I planned when I’m shopping. They can be so expensive. In Canada, you can google “estate sale companies” and your province to get targeted results. And in the US, estatesales.net is a good directory for finding one. I also have to agree with Ellie about the metal machine thing, because that’s what I was sewing on before. And, oh, as much as I love my new Pfaff, my old Sears Kenmore, I mean, what a workhorse. Just so reliable.

Caroline: Yeah, I know, they don’t make them like they used to. Isn’t that what people say?

Caroline: Tracy also likes estate sales. They said, “Keep an eye on estate sales. The husband and I drove an hour to go to one this last spring. I got about 30 yards of fabric, some notions, a vintage pattern, and a coin purse for 40 bucks. That includes vintage denim, velvet, and cottons. Also go to community flea markets. I got around 10 yards of fabric for 10 bucks because somebody cleaned out their scraps and unwanted quilting fabric. I regret not going to buy more.”

Helen: Ooh, that’s amazing. Community markets and garage sales are a good place to source sewing stuff. I feel like it can be hit-and-miss, of course, but if sewing stuff isn’t the only thing you’re looking for, or you just enjoy the hunt, you can get amazing deals. And I know for beginners, one of the challenging things about picking up fabric here and there is that you don’t know what it is or if it’s any good. And so if you can bring a friend, a family member, somebody in your life who does know a little bit about sewing and fabric, bring them along for the ride. You’ll have a nice time hanging out and they can help you identify whether the fabric you’re picking up is any good.

Caroline: For sure.

Helen: Michelle said, “I use thrifted notions frequently, especially buttons. Sometimes buttons on thrifted garments are higher quality and less expensive than carded buttons at big box stores. Hardware for purses can also be quite good, even if the bag itself is not.”

Caroline: This is a great tip. You can also harvest notions that are still good from your own worn-out garments, kind of like Helen’s idea for bras earlier.

Helen: Yeah, exactly. If something’s done, you can still save those buttons.

Caroline: Christine said, “I buy most of my fabric from thrift stores, remnants or deadstock, which means I end up with unique pieces.”

Helen: This is a great point. You’re not only saving money, you’re finding fabrics that are rare and special, a little bit more unique, have been saved from the landfill, which is always a good feeling. Caroline, I know I’m not alone; when I see that deadstock label on the Blackbird Fabrics newsletter, I get pretty excited.

Caroline: I know! There’s always unique finds with deadstock. And the thing with it is that often we can’t get it again, which is a little heartbreaking, but that’s kind of the point, right?

Helen: Yeah, exactly. I want that exclusie.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Okay. @krumbymadeit said, “Search for a haberdashery opshop, aka a thrift store, in your area. Notions, fabric, and patterns at a fraction of the cost and saving unwanted items from the landfill.”

Caroline: These are also known as creative reuse centers. It’s 100 percent worth it to find out if there’s one near you. Plus, it’s a great place to donate if you need to reduce your stash. We have one in Vancouver called FabCycle.

Helen: Ooh, yes, totally. And speaking of fabric recycling places, Caitlin says, “I love to shop at FabScrap, a textile waste facility.” This is such a cool place. Some of the fabric they get gets recycled. Some gets downcycled into stuff like insulation. Some does go to the landfill and then some gets resold in their shop. They have one in Brooklyn and they have one in Philadelphia and they have a small selection of stuff that you can buy online. Check your local area too. There might be a similar kind of thing happening in your town or your city. Somebody organizing this kind of fabric recycling depot.

Caroline: Another way to shop strategically is to use textiles in ways that they weren’t originally intended for. Michaela said, “I love to shop estate sales and thrift stores for old sheets, curtains, or tablecloths to use as fabric. Once, for a friend’s wedding, I made a matching set of Winslow Culottes and an Ashton Crop Top out of an old set of sheets.”

Helen: Oh, that sounds amazing. I mean, some sheets are really nice quality. Like, actually sheets have a higher thread count than most fabrics do. So if it’s in good condition, then you’ve got yourself some really nice fabric. And some sheets have, like, Star Wars prints, and that’s also cool and nice, so you never know what you might find.

Caroline: Yeah. There’s something for everyone.

Helen: Karen said, “Switch to linen sheets. Have the best sleep of your life, and after a few years, the fitted sheet will thin and rip and voila, yards and yards of linen fabric. And repeat.”

Caroline: Yeah, often the fitted sheet will wear down so much faster than the top sheet. So even if your fitted sheet is ripped up, you’ll still have tons of fabric in that top sheet. It’s genius. It kind of makes that purchase like a two-in-one.

Helen: Yeah, I do love this idea. So smart.

Caroline: Sarah said, “I can make a top out of two IKEA budget pillowcases or a small fitted sheet. I sometimes even print on them.”

Helen: Oh, smart. Okay. The IKEA As-Is section, you know, that little section at the end where they have all this stuff that, like, is a little rough around the edges, we’ll say, returned or something like that. Such a great place to find the cheap linens, the curtains, blankets and stuff like that to upcycle. I’m remembering we talked to WithWendy earlier this fall and she had upcycled a blanket from IKEA into, like, a really cool Chanel jacket that looked amazing. So you really can do lots of things.

Caroline: I know, I always make a beeline for that section when I get to IKEA and I’ve never really looked at it through the lens of, like, what could I use for a sewing project or a muslin or something, but now I feel like it’s going to open up a whole new world.

Helen: A whole can of worms. Yeah.

Caroline: Of possibilities. Yeah.

Helen: Tracy said, “For stuffing plushies, and pillows, I go to Target and buy pillows from them for 4 bucks. I found this out because I wasn’t going to spend 30 plus dollars to fill a 9 foot sandworm plush for myself. Also, you get bonus fabric for mock-ups and whatnot.”

Caroline: Ooh, I’ve never thought of this, but it’s such a smart way to get stuffing, especially clearance pillows that like no one wants to buy that probably will end up in the landfill. You can actually put those materials to good use.

Helen: Totally. Sometimes buying a pillow form is like more expensive than buying a pillow, which is weird.

Caroline: I know. Isn’t that wild?

Helen: Look, I don’t understand this world, Caroline. I’m just here to try to make some budget sewing tips.

Caroline: All right, here are some more ways to pay less than full price. Rebekah said, “Plan ahead. If you know you want to make a coat, you can usually find really good deals on wool in the summer or swim fabrics in the winter.”

Helen: Totally, shopping off-season or end-of-season is so smart. That’s definitely when things go on sale to get discounted. So keep your eyes out. Stephanie said, “My biggest money-saver for sewing is buying from AliExpress. For trims, tassels, beads, ribbons, buttons, and notions of all kinds, their products are pennies to the dollar of somewhere like Joann’s. It takes a while to ship from China, but it cuts out the markup middleman who’s selling you those same products anyways. If you can plan your sewing in advance, you can save tons.”

Caroline: Yeah, AliExpress is a wholesaler that also sells to individual customers, so they do have really low prices and this is a great place to look if you haven’t already.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: One more piece of budget wisdom: It’s only a bargain if you would want it at full price. So if you come across a great deal, but you won’t actually use it, buying it actually isn’t saving you money. So, on the other hand, if you love it, move fast, because it might sell out or the sale might end. But just give it a think. Remember, go slow.

Helen: Go slow. One trap I always get sucked into is I gotta get that free shipping, Caroline.

Caroline: Yeah, you gotta bump it up. It’s worth it, what can I say?

Helen: I mean, I love getting free shipping, but ultimately you’re spending more money. So something to think about. Obviously, you know, I’m with you on liking that free shipping, guys. I hear you.

Caroline: Yeah. But if you are shopping less, and I think one of our listeners mentioned earlier, like, they’re only placing one or two orders a season, you’re kind of accumulating all of those things, then you’ll save so much on postage by going for that free shipping offer, so.

Helen: Yes, absolutely. Batching your, your purchasing for sure. Okay, before we wrap up this episode, we have a few little miscellaneous money saving tips from listeners. Annmarieke says, “Print PDF patterns at work.” Okay, this is hilarious, but I support it. It depends on your job, of course, and hopefully, you know, you have permission, but listeners replied to say that they also use the big tables at work to assemble patterns after hours, maybe use the paper cutter, maybe even a little tape. I mean, the supplies are there, right? They gotta get used.

Caroline: Absolutely, yeah. I mean, you know what? I support it. Hannah said, “We always reuse printer paper, which means my best beloved sometimes takes papers to work with pattern pieces on the backs and my patterns have incomprehensible archaeology information on them.”

Helen: Hannah sent us a picture of the back of her Costa Tote pattern pieces. Definitely incomprehensible archaeology info. We can confirm.

Caroline: Yes, yes.

Helen: I love reusing paper. I totally have a stack of paper because I print out a lot of stuff. I test print all our patterns and make sure they assemble nicely. And I have, like, a big pile of prints next to my desk. And whenever I’m printing something that’s not important, I just slap some of that scrap paper in there.

Caroline: Yeah. same. Love reusing paper. Such a great thing.

Helen: Yeah. All right. Before we wrap up, we have a great little story/tip from Tori. A story from Tori. “This tip might not work for everyone, but here it goes. Start a sewing club. In 2023, some friends and I worked in the Tacoma Tool Library, which is a nonprofit lending libraries for tools. And I started a bi-monthly sewing club. We started meeting to discuss it in April 2023 and then launched it to the public in July, and since then we’ve received many, many donations of notions, fabric, sewing machines, and sewing tools, including a few quilting frames and cutting tables. We offer a Sewing Machines 101 at every meeting, which covers basic sewing machine operation and tips. And then we have a slate of projects people can work on to improve their skills with all the materials and machines available for them to use at no cost. We also have volunteers on hand who can help with projects, answer questions, share their knowledge. And because we’re working with a nonprofit and because we are pooling our resources, the costs are exceedingly low. One of the tool library’s main focuses is lowering barriers of access. So all the events are free to attend and all the supplies are provided. I began garment making this year and my first toile came from fabric from our club, using pattern weights from our club, and sewn on a machine from the tool library. Not to mention, using the insight I’ve been able to soak up from more experienced sewists I’ve met via this and other community resources, such as another sewing club in our city that’s also free, which is full of artists and garment makers. Maybe sewing will become more expensive as my skills and desires for specific makes expands, but for a beginner sewist, our sewing program has been instrumental in my ability to learn how to sew for a little cost.”

Caroline: Oh, this is so amazing. I love that you’re creating a low cost way for you to learn to sew as well as make sewing accessible to others. Bravo, Tori!

Helen: Yes, this is cool. I love tool libraries as a concept and I have used them and they’re amazing. And it makes so much sense to have sewing machines be a part of that because there are so many sewing machines out there in the world and they’re not all getting used. So it’s great to be able to spread that love around

Caroline: Yeah, it’s so true. Okay, so to recap our big budget sewing strategies: use what you have, buy less, take your time, and shop smart.

Helen: And if you have any more budget sewing tips, let us know about them. We’ll share them in future episodes. And happy sewing and saving. Cha ching!

Caroline: And that’s it for today’s episode of Love to Sew. You can find me, Caroline, at Blackbird Fabrics and BF Patterns, and Helen at Helen’s Closet Patterns and Cedar Quilt Co. We’re recording in beautiful British Columbia, Canada.

Helen: You can support Love to Sew and get access to bonus content by subscribing on Patreon or Apple Podcasts. You even get access to the back catalogue of bonus episodes. That’s over 75 hours of Love to Sew. So go to patreon.com/lovetosew or check out our podcast page on Apple Podcasts for more info.

Caroline: You can head to lovetosewpodcast.com to find our show notes. They’re filled with links and pictures from this episode. And if you’d like to get in touch with us, you can leave us a message at 1-844-SEW-WHAT. That’s 1-844-739-9428. Or send us an email at hello@lovetosewpodcast.com.

Helen: Thanks to our amazing podcast team. Lisa Ruiz is our creative assistant, Jordan Moore of the Pod Cabin is our editor. And thank you for listening. We will talk to you next week.

Caroline: Bye!

Helen: Bye!

2 comments

  1. Gayle says:

    Loved the episode — I listened on my ipod while doing yardwork. If I have to mow the lawn, at least I can hear about sewing! Two things — 1) be careful with using serger cone thread in the sewing machine. This is ok with high quality thread but often it is a lower-ply and not as strong as regular 40 wt sewing thread. Since the serger is using 3 or 4 or 5 threads, it isn’t an issue. Also, you don’t want the bulk of a stronger thread when combining all those strands. Another issue with serger thread is that it might throw more lint — again not a big deal when going through loopers but we want as little lint in our sewing machines as possible. 2) I have found sometimes that when sewing from my stash that if I didn’t buy a notion (esp zipper) when that was the current fashion palette it is difficult to get a good match later. Back to mowing and then more sewing!

    1. Helen Wilkinson & Caroline Somos says:

      Hi Gayle! These are all great points – thanks for sharing them with us. I’m so glad that we get to accompany your yard work. Happy mowing and sewing!

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