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Transcript: 

Helen: We are recording today on the traditional, ancestral, and unceded territories of the Coast Salish and Kwakwaka’wakw peoples, including Tsleil-Waututh, Squamish, Musqueam, and K’ómoks first nations.

Caroline: Hello and welcome to Love to Sew. I’m Caroline, the owner of Blackbird Fabrics and BF Patterns.

Helen: And I’m Helen, the designer behind Helen’s Closet Patterns and Cedar Quilt Co.

Caroline: We’re two sewing buds who love to sew, and it’s all we want to talk about.

Helen: In this episode, we’re getting inspired by vintage styles from the 1920s to the 1990s. We’re going to talk about the typical silhouettes, styles, and fabrics from each decade. We’ll also share media to watch and get inspired and indie patterns that have the decade’s vibe. So get in the time machine. We’re going window shopping.

Caroline: If you love to sew, this is your show.

Hello, Helen. Welcome to the past.

Helen: Hello. Is this how they talked in the past? Hello…

Caroline: Hello…

Helen: …madam.

Caroline: Obviously, just kidding. Even though this episode is coming out on Halloween, it is surprisingly not about costuming. We’ve already covered that.

Helen: It’s true.

Caroline: And it’s not about styling a full vintage outfit either. What we’re going to do today is get inspired by vintage fashions and talk about how to incorporate them into your modern wardrobe.

Helen: And if you are interested in full vintage styling, we have some previous episodes with amazing guests like Serena, Gertie, and more. So we’re going to leave that topic to the experts, but we’ll make sure to link our interviews with vintage and historical sewists in our show notes, so you can find them if that’s what you’re looking for.

Caroline: Yes, and looking through vintage clothing is a good way to find fresh silhouettes, details, and styling. I know it seems like the opposite of fresh, but fashion is cyclical. So for example, we are in a big sleeve era right now. And if you love big sleeves, you can find inspo from modern designers and ready to wear garments, but you could also seek out some Victoriana styles from the 70s and 80s, puff sleeves from the 30s, and even leg of mutton sleeves from the 1890s. And then you would have more source material to design something unique.

Helen: Ooh! It sounds delicious.

Caroline: Yes! I actually was feeling so inspired when we were reading through and prepping for this episode and all that, so I’m really excited to get into it today because it’s just so fun to go through the decades and think about all the different elements that we love, or maybe don’t love.

Helen: And they all have different things to offer, too. Like, I have my favourite general decade, but I would really be happy to pull elements from each and every one that we’re going to talk about today. There’s just so many fun things to play around with.

Caroline: Same. Yeah, I would totally pull elements from all these different decades. So I feel like we should get into it. But I actually want to know, Helen, what is your favourite style decade? I could guess, but I’m going to ask.

Helen: Yeah, this will shock no one. I love the 70s. I love the bold prints and the flowy voluminous blouses and dresses and high waisted jeans and warm shades of rusty red and olive green. And this fall, I actually really want to add some flares to my wardrobe. So I might make those Isle Jeans from Chalk and Notch because they look so cute. I really like all the darts along the waistline and those front patch pockets.

Caroline: Yes!

Helen: It’s just perfect.

Caroline: Fun. I’m totally on the same page as you. I love the 70s. You know I love a gathered, tiered, voluminous dress. Also, love a puff sleeve, love a high waisted jean. I’m totally on the same page. I’m also, kind of, into the 90s now. They’re definitely having a moment, and I’m really loving it. I love the, kind of, sort of, grunge look. I love the, like, 90s vintage-y prints and little dresses that you see…

Helen: Mm-hmm.

Caroline: …on shows like Friends. Super into the 90s now, so we’ll see, we’ll see if that pops up in my sewing anytime soon.

Helen: I mean, it is always a little disconcerting when the decade that you were a teenager during…

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: …becomes in style again…

Caroline: Yes.

Helen: … and is now considered to be vintage, but…

Caroline: Yes.

Helen: …I am also loving it. There’s so much variety in the nineties. Like, it seems when you look at it, maybe a little on the boring side, but there’s lots of little nuances and lots of different styles. Like, you can go full grunge, kind of, like rocker punk rock. Or you could go super sweet and wear one of those…

Caroline: Mm-hmm.

Helen: …kind of, almost, like, Laura Ashley, like, dresses with the little tie backs. So cute. Yeah, there’s lots to choose from.

Caroline: I was thinking about this because I was like, I feel like I grew up in the 90s, but I was pretty young, like, I think I was age 2 to 12 in the 90s.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: So I feel like I didn’t get to fully, like, experience 90s style. I remember seeing my sister dress really 90s, but, like, I was so young that I didn’t really get to lean into that.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: So I’m actually, kind of, excited that it’s come back around because I feel like I can really embrace the more, like, adult 90s styles that I didn’t get to use.

Helen: Yeah. Now’s your chance. I mean, we, it’s true, we really were stuck in the aughties, which were not the most exciting fashion wise, but you know what? Give it some time because after a little bit of time goes by, you’d be surprised how exciting things seem.

Caroline: Okay. Listen though. I don’t know if you’ve been ready to wear shopping lately, but…

Helen: Oh, gosh. I know.

Caroline: …like, low waisted jeans, cargo pants…

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: …like, the tops that, kind of, have elastics at the hip, like, so many things from…

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: …our teenage years, like, the 2000s, are back already, and I’m not ready for it. I’m just not ready for it. I don’t want it.

Helen: I’m going to go buy a Juicy Couture tracksuit right now. I want…

Caroline: Yeah. The Adidas…

Helen: …it to be sequined. I want it.

Caroline: …the Adidas, like, pants that, like, rip away at the side.

Helen: Oh, yeah. Tearaways.

Caroline: Like, I feel like those are back, too. Like, I don’t know. Just, yeah.

Helen: Tearaways are great because when you want pants, you got them, and then, when you don’t want them, instantly removable.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: One strong tug, you’re good.

Caroline: Oh, my gosh. I don’t even want to think about it. I’m good. Let’s go back. Let’s take it back.

Helen: Yes.

Caroline: I’m not ready.

Helen: Before we start discussing each decade, we want to give you some ideas for incorporating vintage styles without going full vintage. This is all about creating a balance between vintage and modern.

Caroline: Yeah, if you have a vintage silhouette, you want to choose a more modern fabric. Like, if you want to make 50s style jeans, you can try using modern light wash denim instead of a period accurate dark wash. On the other hand, if you use a vintage fabric, you could choose a more modern pattern. A super frilly 80s floral is going to look really cool in a masculine button up.

Helen: And as sewists, this is such a superpower that we have because you don’t get to do this in the store, but we get to mix and match fabrics and patterns to create these really unique combinations that you just can’t get anywhere. And that’s so fun.

Caroline: It really is. And you can also look for fabrics and patterns that are already a balance between modern and vintage. A blue and white gingham is going to look more like full vintage. You can modernise it by choosing a gingham in rainbow colours or muted brown and black. Or you might love the look of a pointy notched collar, but think that the ones from the seventies are a bit much. So you could take a pattern with a notched collar and increase the pointiness just a little bit. And then you get the vibes without looking like you’re wearing a costume.

Helen: And styling can also really change up the look. So if you wore pleated trousers with a silk puffy sleeve blouse, you’ll look more vintage-y. But if you wore them with a knit turtleneck, you’re going to look a bit more modern and still have those Katherine Hepburn vibes.

Caroline: Yeah, I love the, like, mixing and matching of vintage look and modern. But some people love to just go full vintage…

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: …and I think that’s cool, too.

Helen: It totally is. It’s such an amazing look. I love seeing it in person, especially. Mostly, I just get to see it online, but every once in a while you’ll see somebody out there in the world rocking a head to toe vintage outfit, and it is thrilling, like, truly.

Caroline: Yeah. Okay, let’s start talking about the decades. We’re going to kick it off with the roaring 20s. This was a decade of liberation and excess. Flappers were the height of cool. Corsets were out and bare knees were in. Women bobbed their hair and started wearing makeup in public. Suits became a bit looser and easier to wear than the super tailored styles of the last few decades.

Helen: And the main silhouette for the 1920s is the column. So lots of dress styles were meant to hang straight down the body, minimising curves for a more quote unquote boyish shape.

Caroline: And here are some elements that are often found in clothes from the 20s. The drop waist was everywhere. Skirts and belts were often placed way down on the hips, not really functional, just decorative. There were also shift dresses, which had no separate skirt pieces, and tabards, which were smock-like overdresses that fastened at the sides.

I wanted to call out that I feel like that style is definitely showing up in fashion now, where it’s, sort of, like, almost an apron style dress with the ties on the side. And I think it looks so cool and it can look super modern in, like, a linen fabric or something a little bit more unexpected. Love it.

Helen: So cute. Along with the dropped waist came super deep necklines. Most women wore a slip dress underneath, but some movie stars just went bare. And people also wore long necklaces, some draping almost to the waist. I’m totally picturing that, like, long pearl necklace with a knot in it…

Caroline: Love it.

Helen: …near the bottom. So cute.

Caroline: Skirt lengths were short, well shorter than before, and at the beginning of the decade, midi-length skirts were more common, and even that was, kind of, shocking. By the end of the decade it was normal to see knee length skirts out and about. Flappers liked to wear skirts that showed their knees, or at least showed a peak of them, and there was even a fad of painting designs on your knees or putting rouge on them.

Helen: I absolutely love this. We’re going to link it up in our show notes. There’s an article showcasing a lot of these knee paintings, and we need to bring this back, people. This is so cool. Like, you can paint anything you want on your knees. It’s great.

Caroline: I just love that people were like, oh, knee-length is short…

Helen: Oh, my knees.

Caroline: Oh, my goodness.

Helen: Yeah. Even an ankle. Very risqué.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Sleeves during the twenties were usually slim or drapey. Sleeveless dresses were popular for evening wear.

Caroline: And sporty knitwear styles were popular. Knitting machines had become more widespread after World War I, so there were more knits on the market than ever. The typical sports sweater was long, boxy, and lightweight.

Helen: Suits in the 20s usually came in three pieces. You got your jacket, vest, or waistcoat, and pants. Pants were a bit on the baggy side, and the jackets were loose. And there was a lot of fun details on 1920s suits, like shapely collars, tie pins, and colourful fabrics.

Caroline: Speaking of fabrics, here are some fabrics associated with the twenties. Dresses made of sheer fabrics worn over slip dresses were super popular in the twenties. Burnout velvet, beaded mesh, or chiffon are good choices for evening styles. Most 20s clothes were meant to hang close to the body. So drapey fabrics are a good way to get that look. And for daytime, you want to look for cotton voile or embroidered mesh.

Helen: Jewel tones were also super popular, and most fabrics were solids. Embellishment was added with embroidery, applique, beading, or trim, and prints tended to be plaids or illustrated florals.

Caroline: And here’s some 1920s inspo for you. Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries is an Australian show with incredible costume design. Franny Fisher is an independent woman and private detective with a flair for fashion. This is a great show all around.

Helen: Oh, it’s so much fun to watch. A good one for having on in the background when you’re sewing actually.

Caroline: Mm, love it.

Helen: Peaky Blinders is another great show. Series two through five take place in the 20s, and there’s amazing menswear in the show. It almost makes me want to put on suspenders and a flat cap.

Caroline: Almost.

Helen: Almost.

Caroline: Downton Abbey. Oh, I love Downton Abbey. This show has won so many awards for its costumes. Series three through six of the show take place in the twenties, and they always make opportunities for the characters to wear amazing clothes.

Helen: Literally incredible. Like, everything Edith wears, in particular, just floors me.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Like, gorgeous. Okay, here are some patterns for those 20s silhouettes and details. The April Dress by Forget Me Not Patterns is an easy fit dress with grown-on sleeves, got that drop waist, and a gathered skirt. The skirt seam is a wavy line, which is such a cool detail. And if you wear it without the belt and choose a drapey fabric, it has great 20s vibes.

Caroline: The Belvedere Waistcoat by Thread Theory is a vest with nice tailoring details. The models are wearing flat caps with it, super Peaky Blinders. I also love the look of a waistcoat, just in general, and I feel like that’s another style that’s, kind of, coming back in, that, sort of, vest look just on its own, especially in womenswear. I really want to make one of those this fall.

Helen: Ooh.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: I feel like it would be a really fun project, too. Like, it’s got some details, so it wouldn’t be easy per se, but it’s on the smaller side. So I do think it would be really a fun one to work on.

Caroline: Yeah, like, a nice entry level tailoring project, too.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: Like if you don’t want to make a full blazer, make yourself a little waistcoat. Just get a little taste.

Helen: Yeah. So cute. The Kemper Top by Seamwork has some really great seam details The bodice has a yoke and three panels, and there are gathered peplums at the sides. In the sample, they used a solid white cotton for the main parts and then a nice white eyelet for the yoke and the peplums, it has a 20s vibe, but it’s modernised because it’s worn with jeans in these product photos. I think this is a really cute one.

Caroline: This is so cute. It’s so funny because Seamwork comes out with so many patterns. I often just don’t catch some of them and or, like, I’ll see it and then, I’ll forget that it exists.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: So, I bet you Seamwork has tons of patterns that would work if you’re sewing through the decades.

Helen: Oh, totally. Side note before we move on, when I was in my early twenties, very appropriate, I had a flapper dress, like, full-on black dress with the fringe tiers all the way down. And I wore that out every time I went clubbing…

Caroline: What?

Helen: …because it made me feel so glamorous, and it was so much fun to wear. But one time I was dancing and my, like, one of the, like, loops on the flapper thing got, like, so tangled on this guy’s vest or shirt or something, like, one of the buttons on his outfit, and it got so tangled up. I was literally stuck to him. Like, we weren’t even dancing together. We were just, like, it just happened. And it got totally stuck to him. And then he pulled out a lighter and was going to burn my dress to get out, like, and I was, like, absolutely not, but eventually, I think we just had to rip it or something. It was…

Caroline: Oh, my gosh.

Helen: …so awkward, but I loved that dress so much, and eventually, sadly, it didn’t fit me anymore, but I, kind of, wish I’d kept it then, maybe I could have refashioned it. So fun.

Caroline: I do love the flapper look. I’ve always wanted to go to, like, a 20s party…

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: …so I could wear a flapper dress.

Helen: Wear, like, a little, like, band around your…

Caroline: Yes. Oh, my gosh. And do some, like, fun curls in the hair…

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: …and, like…

Helen: Oh, I had like a short, well, actually I had a side shave. So half my head was, like, shaved and then, the other half was super short. So it, kind of, looked like a little 20s bob, and so it looked so good with the flapper dress. Like, it was such a cute look.

But you could totally make one of those dresses. Like, if you go to a fabric store you can often buy that fringe, and it’s just, like, it’s on a little trim. It’s quite expensive typically, but you can buy it and then, you just, kind of, wrap it around a dress like the Reynolds Dress or something like that where it’s got that, kind of, shape and just sew it on and boom flapper dress.

Caroline: So cute. Okay. Side note, again, though, this person who pulled out their lighter, like, jokes on them because that fringe was probably polyester, and it probably would have just, like, melted onto that.

Helen: It’s true.

Caroline: Right? Oh, my gosh. The things, like, 20 year olds do. Oh, my.

Helen: I know, and it was such a missed opportunity. Like, we could have had, like, a really great meet cute, but he blew it.

Caroline: Yeah. Oh, my gosh. Okay, let’s move on. The 1930s was a time of making do and mending, starting with the Great Depression and ending with World War II. Even though times were hard, the movie industry boomed. It was an affordable luxury where people could go to escape their troubles. And the costumes for 1930s movies were spectacular. There’s usually a line for “Gowns by” in the credits of 1930s movies.

Helen: Ooh, I love that. The silhouette of the 30s was elongated. If you look at fashion illustrations and pattern covers, the drawings of women are impossibly tall, even taller than now, so that was the big fashionable thing.

Caroline: And here are some style elements from the thirties. Hemlines went back down, midi length and tea length skirts were in style for day, and floor length was in style for evening.

Helen: Sleeves got more fun. Short puff sleeves and flouncy flutter sleeves were common.

Caroline: Bias cut dresses and skirts clung close to the body, giving that long, slim shape. Evening dresses were made of silk satin, often put together from diamond shaped pieces of fabric. The green dress from the movie Atonement is a good example. Day dresses were cut on the bias, too, but they were more likely to be made from a cotton print.

Helen: Oh, I love all this bias stuff. Incredible. Suits widened in the shoulders and lapels and double breasted jackets came into style. The idea was to have a wide chest curving into a slim waist.

Caroline: And in terms of fabrics, feed sack prints were popular in the 1930s. These are small-scale colourful florals. They’re called “feed sack” or “flower sack” prints because feed and flower companies would sell flour in colourful fabric bags that could be reused as fabric for clothing. They wanted to motivate customers to keep buying from their company, so that they could get enough of the same fabric to make a full dress. And for the customers, it was a way to get fabric while buying something they needed anyway. This is so cool.

Helen: It’s so cool. I love the resourcefulness and just the idea of, like, slowly gathering panel by panel enough fabric to make your dress. For evening dresses, satin and lamé were the standards. Shiny fabrics looked great on film, even in black and white. Lace also came back into fashion after practically disappearing during the twenties.

Caroline: And bright colours and pastels were popular in prints. For evening, jewel tones were still the thing.

Helen: Here’s some great sources of 1930s inspo. Agatha Christie’s Poirot is a series set from 1935 to 1939. It’s a wonderful murder mystery show, and the costumes are so perfectly 30s.

Caroline: Fried Green Tomatoes is a movie about the power of community and love, and it’s set in the southern USA in the 1930s. There are so many great feed sack dresses in this show.

Helen: I actually haven’t watched this movie, but it’s been on my list for so long. So I really got to do it.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: The Durrells is another new show to me that I really want to see. It’s also known as The Durrells in Corfu. It’s a series about a British family who moved to the Greek island of Corfu in the 1930s. And it will definitely give you inspo for your summer sewing. It also just looks absolutely gorgeous. Like, the cinematography. It’s going to make me want to go to Greece, too.

Caroline: Yeah. Not a terrible thing.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: We all want to go to Greece. Okay, here are some patterns with 30s vibes. The Rozelle Slip by Peppermint Magazine is a great one to get that slinky look. It has wide straps, a deep v neck gathering under the bust, and a long bias skirt.

Helen: Bootstrap Fashion has a made to measure pattern for a double breasted jacket that looks very 1930s.

Caroline: Ooh, and the Jo Dress by Closet Core has that long slim 30s look with voluminous sleeves.

Helen: Ooh, yes, very elongating for sure. In the 1940s, fabric use was really tightened up. Many fabrics and fibres were needed for the war effort, so people had to economise fabric. Mending and refashioning ideas were featured in pamphlets and magazines, and people came up with some really amazing ideas.

Caroline: The fashionable silhouette was an upside down triangle, strong shoulders with a slimmer waist and hips.

Helen: Here are some of the styles that were typical for the 40s. Many sleeves had gathering at the sleeve cap to create volume in the shoulders, but were slimmer through the rest of the sleeve. Jackets and coats were often padded at the shoulders for that stronger look.

Caroline: And as women started working jobs that were typically reserved for men, menswear crossed over into womenswear. So boiler suits, overalls, and tailored skirt suits were popular.

Helen: Pants became way more common for women, too. Pleated, wide legged pants with a blouse was a great look.

Caroline: And suits became simpler to reduce the fabric used. Two-piece suits were more common than three-piece, and they skipped some of the extra details that were found in earlier suits.

Helen: And as far as fabric in the 1940s, darker, more neutral colours were common. Army green and khaki were popular. And for prints, there was plenty of plaid wools. Feed sack prints continued into the 1940s, though the prints did become more abstract than they were in the 30s. At the beginning of the decade, prints were small scale, but they got bigger in scale as time went on.

Caroline: Rayon was introduced in the 1940s, as well, and it was super popular. Silk was mostly unavailable for dressmaking during the war, so synthetic silk rayons were the next best thing.

Helen: As far as 1940s inspo, Bomb Girls is a Canadian show about women working in a munitions factory and it will really make you want to sew your own jumpsuit, guaranteed.

Caroline: A League of Their Own, both the 90s movie and the recent TV show, are great sources for 40s inspo. They’ve got swing dresses, casual outfits, and those amazing baseball uniforms.

Helen: Oh, I love the 90s A League of Their Own movie. I haven’t seen the TV show. I gotta check that out.

Caroline: Yeah, me neither.

Helen: His Girl Friday is a great movie from 1940. It’s a fast talking screwball comedy starring Cary Grant and Rosalind Russell. And Rosalind Russell wears the best suits.

Caroline: And here are some patterns with 40s vibes. The Blanca Flight Suit by Closet Core is great for that 40s workwear look. I have a Blanca flight suit, and I love it. It’s so good. Fits like a glove and just so fun to have that zip up at the front. Great nod to the 40s.

Helen: Yeah, this has been on my to sew list for, well, since it came out.

Caroline: Mm-hmm.

Helen: One day, one day. The Taika Blouse Dress by Named is inspired by 1940s tea dresses. It has a v neck gathering under the bust and lightly gathered sleeves.

Caroline: Ooh, I love that one, too. So cute. And the Genet Pants and Shorts by Deer and Doe are both perfectly 40s and timeless at the same time. They have a high waist, pleats, and a wide leg.

Helen: Okay, let’s move on to the fifties. 1950s styles had a lot more exuberance and a lot more fabric. In North America, and later in Britain, there was an economic upturn and an explosion of consumer goods. Womenswear had an ultra feminine touch, and Christian Dior’s new look dominated. In menswear, conformity ruled with lots of dark suits and white shirts, but that’s not to say that there weren’t rebels. The jeans and t-shirt look started in the 1950s.

Caroline: The popular silhouette was the hourglass, a prominent bust, nipped in waist, and full hips was the goal here.

Helen: Side note, I feel like when I started my sewing journey in 2015 or around there, this was the look. Like, everyone was sewing vintage style dresses from the 1950s with this ultra tucked in waist and then full skirt.

Caroline: It’s so true.

Helen: Don’t get me wrong, It was so fun, but ultimately, I feel like, as a whole, the sewing community realised that we weren’t going to be wearing that on the day-to-day.

Caroline: Definitely had, like, a good number of fit and flare dresses with the big gathered skirt and the fitted bodice and never wore them. Never wore them.

Helen: No, but so fun to wear, like, when you finish them, you put them on, you’re like this is everything.

Caroline: So twirly.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Okay, so as we were saying, popular styles from the 1950s. Fit and flare dresses were everywhere. Those were the fitted bodices with the voluminous skirts, and even petticoats underneath for even more oomph. And cotton shirt dresses were common for daytime, and strapless ball gowns were in for evening. Hemlines tended to fall just below the knee, though evening wear could go to the floor.

Caroline: An alternative style was the wiggle dress. It has a fitted bodice with a pencil skirt.

Helen: Tight fitting pants, like cigarette pants and pedal pushers, were popular, and jeans started to come into fashion, especially for teens and young adults. Women’s jeans were high waisted with room through the legs, and men’s jeans were high waisted with more of a straight fit.

Caroline: Men’s suit jackets tended to have a deeper break line than in the 40s. That’s where their lapel meets in the middle, so the v shape in front is deeper.

Helen: As far as fabrics that really say 50s, novelty prints had a heyday back then. Large scale prints of fun things like fruit or palm trees decorated cotton fabrics.

Caroline: Ooh, I love that. And fruit fabrics? They’re still in.

Helen: Timeless.

Caroline: Timeless.

Helen: Maybe more of a summer thing, typically, but I love a pineapple on a shirt.

Caroline: Oh, my gosh. I love a fruit print. I’ve seen a bunch of them recently, and I want to design a fruit print.

Helen: What, you’re hoarding the fruit prints, Caroline? Drop the fruit.

Caroline: I know. Just look, watch this space in the spring. We’ll see what we can get.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: Pastels were popular for spring and summer, as well, moving into neutrals and jewel tones in the fall and winter.

Helen: Crinoline gave those petticoats a lot of body, and other fabrics that created lots of volumes were taffeta and tulle.

Caroline: And dark wash denim was pretty much the only wash you could get and faded jeans were not in style yet.

Helen: Well, they didn’t have time. They hadn’t faded yet.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: This was just only the beginning.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: As far as 50s inspo for you, the first couple seasons of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel are set in the late 50s. It’s about a former housewife who becomes a stand up comedian, and she wears such amazing costumes. The Fold Line even did a “Find That Pattern” video about it, and we’ll link that up in our show notes. I love this show so much.

Caroline: This is one of those shows that everybody recommends, and I still have not watched.

Helen: Oh, Caroline. You’re in for a treat

Caroline: Do you think this is a good one to watch while I’m sewing or do I have to pay attention, like, fully?

Helen: I think it’s worth sitting down and paying attention to it because of the amazing costuming, and it’s just so fun to watch. Like, I don’t think you’re gonna want to look away.

Caroline: Okay. Cool. I’ll add it to the list again.

Helen: This next one I think you could watch while you’re sewing though.

Caroline: Yes. I Love Lucy still stands up today. It’s hilarious. Lucy and Ethel are always wearing cute shirt dresses.

Helen: As far as patterns with those 50s vibes, there are a bunch of Charm Patterns that are inspired by the 50s, but we’ll mention just a couple here. And, for those who don’t know, Gertie is the designer behind Charm Patterns, and she really, like, lives this lifestyle, so this is the place to go.

The Betty Dress has both fit and flare and wiggle styles. It has a cummerbund that cinches in the middle, for that nipped-in shape. And there’s an optional giant bow for the back. And then the Marilyn Jeans are high waisted with a retro yoke and optional contrast cuffs. And they are so cute.

Caroline: I feel like wiggle dress and Gertie are, like, synonymous for me.

Helen: Oh, yeah. I made the wiggle dress from, I think it was her first book that she published, again, like, back in 2016, and I absolutely loved it. It was so much fun to wear. We’ll have to post some photos because we did take some for the blog. Sadly, again, no longer fits but, you know, c’est la vie.

Caroline: The memory is there.

Helen: The memory is there.

Caroline: Yeah, luckily you had a blog, and you were able to document it.

Helen: It’s true. It was worth it.

Caroline: And finally the Sorrel Dress by Jennifer Lauren Handmade. This one is a shirt dress with a pointed fold over collar, grown-on sleeves, and open ended darts for a crisp look.

Helen: I love the vintage details that Jennifer Lauren Handmade always includes in their patterns. Just so many pretty things to look at.

Caroline: Yeah. All right, it’s time for a break.

Love to Sew is made possible by listeners like you. We are so grateful for the support of our amazing patrons and subscribers. If you love Love to Sew and you want to help support the pod, we have a new option for you.

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And we are back with more decades. We’re gonna jump into the 60s. The 60s saw the rise of subcultures like mods and hippies. The ideal of the 50s was sophisticated. The ideal of the 60s was cool. Fashion was full of youthful, rebellious spirit.

Helen: The silhouette of the 60s was even closer to the body than in the 50s, making a more columnar or triangle shape.

Caroline: Yeah, this is getting into the eras that I am a big fan of.

Helen: Yes.

Caroline: I do love the 60s. So here are some popular styles from the 60s. Mini skirts were super in. Some were incredibly short, even by today’s standards, and often mini skirts and mini shift dresses flared out at the hem, making that elongated triangle silhouette.

Helen: With the rise of those hemlines came a new crop of hosiery: tights. Tights were released in fun colours and prints, and some people even matched their dress, tights, and shoes all in the same colour.

Caroline: Empire waists were another style that made a columnar silhouette. They were often paired with long bell sleeves or bishop sleeves. The 1968 Romeo and Juliet movie probably had something to do with that trend.

Helen: Ooh! Suits were slim cut with slim details, including lapels and ties. Towards the end of the decade, more psychedelic and colourful styles started appearing.

Caroline: Women’s suits often had a pencil skirt or sheath dress with a matching cropped jacket. Tippi Hendren’s outfits in The Birds are a good example of this style.

Helen: I like this idea of head to toe matching jacket, dress, tights, shoes, like, full, like, dress like a crayon vibes. So cute! As far as 60s fabrics, graphic pop prints came into style, large scale florals, and psychedelic paisleys felt fresh after the more traditional styles from the 50s.

Caroline: Yeah, those psychedelic paisleys are another one that has come back around many times over.

Helen: Oh, definitely.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Yes.

Caroline: Mod styles were usually made of solid fabrics. They often used blocks of contrasting colours to make things interesting. Black and white was really popular as well. And boucle fabric in bright colours was popular for women’s suiting. Think Jackie Kennedy.

Helen: There was also a trend of space age fabrics and fashion, like clear vinyl, shiny silver, and big circular sequins. Google Paco Rabanne and André Courrèges for some amazing inspo.

Caroline: And here are some shows with 60s inspo. The Queen’s Gambit is such a fun watch, and the costumes are a big part of that. It’s a limited series about a chess prodigy, her rise to the top of the game, and the troubles that come with it. And it’s more fun than it sounds. The Fold Line did a “Find That Pattern” video for this one. Also, like, thanks, The Fold Line. Those videos are so fun. I love it.

Helen: Yeah, they are so fun. Okay. We can’t skip over Mad Men. This is another show that has amazing costumes, and if you watch the whole series, you get to see the evolution of fashion over the whole decade since it starts in 1960 and ends in 1970. One of my favourite shows of all time.

Caroline: Me, too. Oh, love Mad Men. That finale just, oh…

Helen Perfect.

Caroline: …so good.

Helen: Right? Rarely do people nail a finale. Like, of a series, you know?

Caroline: Yeah, it was the best. Flawless. Flawless! Here are some patterns with 60s vibes. The V&A Museum has a free Mary Quant-inspired mini dress pattern designed by Alice Co. Patterns. Mary Quant was a British designer who was super influential in 60s fashion, and this pattern has a bunch of options for different necklines, sleeves, and pockets, too. Unfortunately, it isn’t as size inclusive as patterns we usually share. It goes up to a 49 inch bust, but since the pattern pieces and instructions are free, it could be a great reference.

Helen: Yeah, and I think this style of dress is a really fun sew, especially for a more beginner sewist. It’s definitely something that you can tackle, and it’s so cute. The Peony Dress by Fabric Godmother is a really cute shift dress with elbow length sleeves. There are optional ruffles at the ends of the sleeves, and it comes in mini or long hem lengths. I think this would make an amazing special occasion dress.

Caroline: And Helen, your March Top and Dress has late 60s hippie vibes. Make it long by adding another tier to the skirt. I’ve done that. Or make the top version and wear it with bell bottoms. How cute would that be?

Helen: Ooh.

Caroline: Oh, my gosh.

Helen: Gosh. I need to finish my Isle Jeans so I can do this look.

Caroline: Yes. Yes. Yes.

Helen: I’m wearing a March dress right now. So good.

Caroline: Oh, my gosh. Yes, and that’s one with a added tier, as well, right?

Helen: Yes, yes.

Caroline: Hack.

Helen: So good. Okay, Caroline, it’s time for our favourite decade!

Caroline: I’m ready.

Helen: I’m ready! In the 70s, the back to the land movement inspired earthiness, folksiness, and warmth in fashion. Later in the decade, disco introduced a new level of sparkle and shine.

Caroline: The silhouette of the 70s was an even longer triangle than in the 60s. There was also more volume in the shoulders and sleeves to balance out the volume at the hems.

Helen: Some popular styles from the 1970s include bell bottoms. These were the standard pant style. Whether they were high waisted or hip huggers, you needed a flare coming down from the knees. And there were even bell bottom suits. Bell bottoms for everyone. And you know what? Sam has recently been asking me about a pair of bell bottoms for him. And I’m into it.

Caroline: Okay, I’m sorry, Sam would rock a bell bottom.

Helen: Right?

Caroline: I want to see this. Oh, my gosh. Do it, Helen.

Helen: But is there a pattern out there? I might have to, like, I might have to do some hacking, or maybe I could buy something off the market now that bell bottoms are so popular.

Caroline: Yeah. It’s possible. Peasant dresses, smock tops, and prairie dresses were popular. Hemlines were long. Floor length dresses were worn even in the daytime. Gunne Sax made prairie dresses with small scale floral prints, cotton lace, satin ribbons, and lots of ruffles.

Helen: When Diane von Furstenberg started making wrap dresses in stretchy jersey print fabrics, the style absolutely took off. People lost their minds. They were chic and comfy at the same time. It was revolutionary.

Caroline: And men’s suit lapels got wider and pointier, and so did collars. The leisure suit was a more fashion forward take on the traditional men’s suiting. Oh, my gosh. We’re getting into the eras where, like, I have pictures of my parents wearing these kinds of clothes. And that, like, pointy collar, wide lapel suit moment. My dad rocked that…

Helen: I can totally picture that.

Caroline: …and I don’t know if it’s coming back, but I love seeing the old photos.

Helen: Maybe not to quite the degree that it was in the 70s, but I do think that there are pointier collars out there on the market. And it’s an easy thing to do, like we said at the top of the show, to make that change to a collar if you want to try it out.

Caroline: Totally.

Helen: I love it. As far as 70s fabrics, the typical colour palette of the 70s was warm. You got your golds, oranges, browns and avocado greens. Everything feels cosy and earthy.

Caroline: Oh, Helen, these are our colours.

Helen: I know.

Caroline: I love it. Polyester went from a more niche fabric to a mainstay of fashion. Many people loved that it was affordable, came in vivid colours, and resisted wrinkles.

Helen: Yeah, they just weren’t aware of how sweaty you got yet.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Like, it was new and exciting. Worn in denim was the ideal, and jeans didn’t come pre-worn so you had to wash and wear them to get the perfect jeans for yourself. You had to do the work.

Caroline: Ooh, another one, corduroy was a popular fabric for casual pants and suits. They loved texture and cosiness in the 70s. Oh, my gosh. The 70s is our era. Corduroy, Helen, come on.

Helen: Yes, it’s true that the cosiness factor I think is what really cinches it, like, just all the warm and fuzzies. Now for some 70s inspo, Daisy Jones and the Six is a show about a rock band in the 70s. It’s loosely inspired by Fleetwood Mac, so you know the costumes are going to be good.

Caroline: Oh, that’s another one I need to watch.

Helen: Oh, it’s so good. Yeah, I think you’d like that one.

Caroline: The Brady Bunch is a fun watch these days, especially if you’re looking at what they’re wearing.

Helen: Classic. Some patterns with 70s vibes. If you want that wrap dress Diane von Furstenberg style, the Appleton Dress from Cashmerette is a great jersey wrap dress. It doesn’t feel super 70s as it is, but you could turn up the retro-ness by adding a cool print or maybe changing some of the details a little bit. Be pretty straightforward. Definitely giving that jersey wrap dress vibe.

Caroline: Yeah, totally. And the Jude Flare Jeans by Closet Core are the perfect 70s bell bottoms. They have such a great balance between the fit at the top and the flare at the hems. And Helen, like you mentioned, the Isle Jeans from…

Helen: Yes!

Caroline: …Chalk and Notch are another great option if you want a flare.

Helen: There’s also the Cressida Dress by Made for Mermaids. It really has that Gunne Saks peasant style, especially if you colour block the corset top with contrasting floral fabrics.

Caroline: So cool. Alright, we’re getting into the 80s. In this era, fashion turned up the volume. Bigger was better, and nothing was over the top.

Helen: I do have a soft spot for the 80s, too. There’s a lot of fashion from the 80s that makes me cringe a little bit. Like, it’s just so out there, but that’s the beauty of it. Like, people were just going for it. Like, wearing the craziest stuff as, like, everyday clothes. It’s so much fun. And then there’s, like, people over here doing that. And then there’s people on the other side, just wearing, like, full on beige suits and, like, working on Wall Street, like, such a weird juxtaposition.

Caroline: I can get behind, like, the 80s dancewear.

Helen: Yes.

Caroline: You know…

Helen: Exactly. The fun stuff.

Caroline: …like, give me the leggings and the leg warmers. Give me the, like, leotards.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: Give me the track jackets in the bright colours. Like, I could do that. I could do it.

Helen: What about the full hair and the, like, turquoise eye makeup?

Caroline: Oh, yeah. I’m, I’m into the perms and the, like…

Helen: Yes!

Caroline: …sweatbands. And oh, my gosh. There’s just so much good stuff.

Helen: Okay, so the silhouette was an inverted triangle, really strong shoulders with that nipped-in waist. Some typical styles were shoulder pads in everything. Blazers and jackets had those thick shoulder pads, of course, but we also saw them on blouses and t-shirts.

I was actually watching a movie last night with Sam. It was a horror movie called Prince of Darkness, and one of the characters was wearing just a pullover sweater, but it had shoulder, shoulder pads in it. Like, it was so funny because it looked so awkward, like, kind of, like, she was wearing a football uniform. Like, it was bizarre. But yeah, I think it was 1987 that it came out, so…

Caroline: Love it.

Helen: …makes sense.

Caroline: Puffy sleeves were another strong shoulder style, and they were at their most voluminous since the turn of the century.

Helen: Victorian inspired details were all over. Lace, pintucks, pie crust collars, skirts with yokes, bead encrusted tops and jackets were popular for evening wear.

Caroline: Pants were usually high waisted, bell bottoms were out, legs were straight or tapered, and more casual or youthful styles included ringer tees, you know those t-shirts with contrast bands around the neck and sleeve hems. That’s another thing that’s definitely come back around. And dolphin shorts, those short shorts with contrast binding going around the hems and up the sides.

Helen: Love that. Men’s suits also got bigger and looser fitting with those strong wide shoulders.

Caroline: And here are some fabrics from the 80s. Victorian inspired florals in soft colours were popular for Laura Ashley style dresses and skirts.

Helen: On the other hand, neon came in for a more sporty or streetwear look.

Caroline: A popular evening style was a velvet bodice with taffeta sleeves and skirt. Taffeta is great for volume, so it was an 80s staple.

Helen: And acid wash denim was a look, just bleached denim that has a mottled light wash. Basically, denim just came out in the 50s and just got lighter and lighter and lighter.

Caroline: I’m loving that. Okay, here are a couple of sources of 80s inspo. Stranger Things is a really fun and, kind of, scary sci-fi show starring a group of kids in the 80s. It’s so fun and nostalgic even if you don’t remember the 80s yourself.

Helen: Love Stranger Things. Heathers is a dark comedy from 1988, and its costumes are iconic. The Heathers are a group of mean girls who wear colourful boxy blazers with skirts. They take on a new friend, played by Winona Ryder, and things get pretty dark. It’s a great clash of the super feminine 80s look with the 80s punk and goth looks. Winona Ryder’s in both of these things I just realised.

Caroline: Oh, yeah. True!

Helen: She’s a, like, 80s queen for sure.

Caroline: Just gonna say 80s queen energy, I love it.

Helen: Yes.

Caroline: And here are some patterns with 80s vibes. The Bakerloo Dress by Nina Lee has that super girly 80s look. It has a giant collar with ruffles going around it, a gathered skirt, and puffy sleeves.

Helen: We have to mention The Heather Blazer by Friday Pattern Co. It’s clearly inspired by the movie Heathers. One of the samples is even a plaid set with a matching skirt. So cute.

Caroline: I will forever be obsessed with that outfit from that photo shoot on Friday Pattern Co.

Helen: Yes!

Caroline: Like, oh my gosh, so good. For a sporty summer camp look, pair the Rio Ringer by True Bias with the Sports Shorts by Friday Pattern Co.

Helen: Okay, Caroline, we were born now.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: We can reflect on our own memories of the next decade, and that’s it.

Caroline: Okay, so the 90s. The 90s pulled back from the excess of the 80s. I think the pendulum went so far in one direction, so it had to swing way back the other way. Styles like minimalism and grunge were all about going back to basics.

Helen: Yeah, the silhouette of the 90s was still that column silhouette, but with a bit of a looser, goosier fit.

Caroline: Loosey goosey. I do love that. Here are some styles from the 90s. Sleeves lost all their volume. They either fit closely to the arm or they were just gone altogether. Sleeveless tops and dresses were super common.

Helen: The grunge music scene made flannel shirts popular for all genders. Jeans, a tee, and a flannel shirt was the uniform of the 90s, and is still my uniform to this day.

Caroline: Mm-hmm. Jeans were looser than in the 80s with a straight leg. Towards the end of the decade, bootcut or flare jeans came back in. I feel like this flare was slightly different though than the 70s flare. Often when I think about flare, I think, is it a 70s or a 90s flare? And personally, I do love a 90s flare. Pretty fun.

Helen: Yeah, I mean, they’re both great. The 70s is more of a, like, full on look because it was so exaggerated. the 90s flare is just a little nod, you know? Tee dresses were popular, inspired by 40s vintage pieces you could still find in thrift stores back then. And they were made of drapey fabrics like rayon and often had those princess seams, short sleeves, and that tie or lace to cinch it at the back waist. I am such a sucker for these.

Caroline: Yeah, and it’s so funny that, like, in the 90s we’re seeing that 40s look coming back around…

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: …and it’s sort of a new take on it a little bit, a little bit more of a grungy take. But I do love that 90s vintage-y tea dress look, it’s one of my faves. After the Wall Street fixation of the 80s, in the 90s it was no longer cool to wear a suit. The suits that were still around were loose fitting with wide lapels and pleated pants.

Helen: Streetwear, on the other hand, was everywhere in the 90s. Biker shorts, oversized t-shirts, cool sneakers, and big windbreakers were everywhere.

Caroline: I have to say I’m really into the, like, 90s dad look right now, and I’m trying to convince Shea to get some, like, wider leg jeans and, like, crewneck sweaters, like, ball caps, like, I really want him to step into his, like, 90s dad era.

Helen: I can see it.

Caroline: I think it’s so hot.

Helen: Cute. What about the windbreaker though?

Caroline: Oh, and the windbreaker. Yes. Oh, my gosh. I gotta work on it. I’m gonna work on it. I’ll keep you guys posted.

Helen: Don’t you wish you’d kept your windbreakers from when you were that age?

Caroline: Oh, absolutely.

Helen: Like, I had so many good ones.

Caroline: Oh, my gosh. The colours were so good. There was still a little bit of that 80s inspo coming into the 90s with the windbreakers. I love it. Okay, so in terms of 90s fabrics to look out for, prints got a lot simpler for the most part. Minimalist fashion featured only neutral solids, but dark or muted small scale florals were popular for dresses.

Helen: Streetwear had more pops of colour, usually one or two bright colours paired with a neutral, black, or white.

Caroline: 90s fabrics were drapey. Pointelle knits were common in baby tees, and rayon crinkle fabrics were common in blouses and dresses.

Helen: Denim had to be worn in, and this was actually the first era when pre-distressed jeans were available to buy because that grunge look was so popular.

Caroline: Ooh. So cool. I do love the, like, 90s mom jean look. I feel like that’s the kind of jeans I always want to wear. There is some great 90s inspo out there. The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air is such a funny show, and it’s, like, a 90s time capsule. It’s worth watching for Hilary’s outfits alone.

Helen: Oh, so true. Friends had six seasons during the 90s, and it was super influential on fashion. Plus, it’s just fun to watch.

Caroline: My So-Called Life is a great drama about a teenage girl in the suburbs. It’s realistic, so it’s a good way to get a peek into how regular people dressed.

Helen: As far as some patterns with 90s vibes, I feel like we’re spoiled. There’s so many to choose from.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: The Shelby Dress and Romper by True Bias is an adorable short sleeve button front tee dress with that. I think there’s a lace up back or maybe they did a hack for that.

Caroline: Mm-hmm.

Helen: It’s so, so cute. And the romper view is very 90s too.

Caroline: Yes. The Zuri Windbreaker by Petite Stitchery has some fantastic colour blocking that is so nineties. We need to bring windbreakers back. Dig into your closets. Find your old windbreaker Yeah. But it’s such a great light jacket and the wind doesn’t stand a damn chance.

Helen: Break that wind. The Sicily Slip Dress by Sewing Patterns by Masin has a great minimalist slip dress style with that cowl neck. Caroline, I know you’ve made this one…

Caroline: Mm-hmm.

Helen: …and you love it, right?

Caroline: Yeah, and I feel like it would be so cute in, like, a little 90s floral.

Helen: Yeah!

Caroline: The Brooks Jeans by Helen’s Closet. Who’s that?

Helen: Who’s that? Never heard of that.

Caroline: Who’s that? Um, but yes, you really nailed it with the Brooks Jeans. They really have that high waisted straight leg 90s look. Put on a white tee and all of a sudden you’re Cindy Crawford.

Helen: Oh, thank you. Yes, I absolutely love them. Okay, obviously, there are so many amazing styles in every decade that can inspire us today, and it’s, kind of, like, a fun Project Runway challenge or something. Like, “your decade is the 60s,” and you have to make an outfit to wear to a barbecue or “your decade is the 20s,” and you have to make a dress to wear to a wedding. Just really makes me want to get designing. You know?

Caroline: Me, too. And I have about a dozen shows on my to watch list now, so I’m ready. Let’s, let’s get to sewing.

Helen: Let’s do this.

Caroline: That’s it for today’s episode of Love to Sew. You can find me, Caroline, at Blackbird Fabrics and BF Patterns and Helen at Helen’s Closet Patterns and Cedar Quilt Co. We’re recording in beautiful, but rainy, British Columbia, Canada.

Helen: You can support Love to Sew and get access to bonus content by subscribing on Patreon or Apple Podcasts. You even get access to the back catalogue of bonus episodes. That’s over 75 hours of Love to Sew. Go to patreon.com/LoveToSew or check out our podcast page on Apple podcasts for more info.

Caroline: You can head to LoveToSewPodcast.com to find our show notes. They’re filled with links and pictures from this episode. And if you’d like to get in touch with us, please, please leave us a message at 1-844-SEW-WHAT. That’s 1-844-739-9428. Or you can send us an email, or even a voice memo, at hello@LoveToSewPodcast.com.

Helen: Thanks to our incredible podcast team. Lisa Ruiz is our creative assistant. Jordan Moore of the Pod Cabin is our editor. Margaret Wakelee is our transcriber. And thank you for listening. We’ll talk to you next week.

Caroline: Buh-bye!

Helen: Bye.

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