Knits vs. wovens! Late night sewing vs. daytime sewing! Making a muslin vs just going for it! In this episode, Helen and Caroline have friendly debates over different approaches to sewing. They weigh the pros and cons of each choice before revealing their personal preferences – and the results of our Instagram polls (nearly 3,000 of you responded!). It’s all in good fun – there is a lot of laughing in this episode. Plus, listener questions about using fabric that goes over a pattern’s recommended stretch percentage and what to do about white pants where the pocket bags are visible.
The transcript for this episode is on this page at the end of the show notes.
Previous Episodes Mentioned:
- Episode 147: Bias Tape
- Episode 206: Sewing Ergonomics with Rose Parr
- Episode 219: Sewing Horror Stories (the listener question section is all about getting bias tape to lay flat!)
- Episode 234: Sewing and Travel
Other Mentions:
Transcript:
Helen: We are recording today on the traditional, ancestral, and unceded territories of the Coast Salish and Kwakwaka’wakw peoples, including Tsleil-Waututh, Squamish, Musqueam, and K’ómoks first nations.
Hello, and welcome to Love To Sew. I’m Helen, the designer behind Helen’s Closet Patterns and Cedar Quilt Co.
Caroline: And I’m Caroline, the owner of Blackbird Fabrics.
Helen: We’re two sewing buds who love to sew our own clothes and want to encourage you on your sewing journey, too.
Caroline: Join us for today’s topic: This Way or That Way.
Helen: Hi, Caroline.
Caroline: Hi, Helen. How are you?
Helen: I’m doing well, thanks. How are you?
Caroline: I am great.
Helen: Good, good, good, good, good. Great.
Caroline: Good, good, good. Great. I keep forgetting to tell you the last few times we’ve recorded, I, like, changed my desk position, so now I can see outside…
Helen: Ooh.
Caroline: …and there is a squirrel that does aerobics in a tree across from me, and it’s so distracting.
Helen: Sounds adorable.
Caroline: It’s very cute. The squirrel is just jumping from branch to branch, taking chances, like, really just, I don’t know how they do it, but this, this squirrel’s really cute.
Helen: I wonder, maybe it’s got a nest nearby or something, like, if it’s always there, it probably…
Caroline: Yeah.
Helen: …lives nearby.
Caroline: I mean, I’m assuming it’s the same squirrel ‘cause I’ve never seen such a brave squirrel, but, maybe it’s a family of brave squirrels.
Helen: Well, that’s very cute. I love the visual.
Caroline: Yeah.
Helen: Thank you for that.
Caroline: You’re welcome. I can also see my blooming magnolia tree and…
Helen: Aw. Lovely.
Caroline: …rotos, but, we’ll talk about that on Patreon, won’t we?
Helen: And for our listeners, I am sitting in a closet, so it’s beautiful.
Caroline: Yes. Picture this: a closet.
Helen: Picture a closet. That’s where I am, but the sound quality is amazing, you know?
Caroline: Isn’t it? It really is. Kudos to you for that.
Helen: Alright. I’m excited to get into this episode, but we have a couple listener questions to start us off. Olivia wrote, “I’m starting to dip my toes into sewing stretch garments (the Jackson Tee is all printed out!) and I’m curious about stretch percentages. Most patterns recommend a minimum stretch, say 10%, but can you over do it? Is there a range I should stick to, like if the pattern says 10% I shouldn’t go over 30%?”
Caroline: This is a great question, Olivia. So when a minimum amount of stretch is listed on the pattern, there is usually not a maximum. You can use 80% stretch fabric for a pattern that suggests 10% minimum stretch. So you can always go over, I just wouldn’t go under. It’s the opposite of The Price Is Right.
Helen: Yeah, I think opposite Price Is Right.
Caroline: Honestly, yeah, you’ll remember. Um, but there are two things you wanna keep in mind when you’re going, like, far above the recommended stretch percentage. So first up, you wanna make sure that the fabric has good recovery. This means that you can stretch it out and release it, and it’s gonna go back to its original shape.
And if it doesn’t, your garment can bag out and grow a little too much as you wear it. And this would be amplified if you’re using something with more of a stretch percentage ‘cause you can stretch it more. So keep that in mind.
And then secondly, if your pattern has a neckband, you might need to make an adjustment to that neckband so that it fits the neckline accordingly. So you’re gonna wanna shorten it. If you’re using a fabric with more stretch, you need to shorten that neck band ‘cause it’s gonna stretch more as you, sort of, shape it to your neckline.
Helen: Yeah. Definitely. And I would also say that since you’re a beginner and you’re just getting started with stretch fabrics, you don’t wanna veer too far from that stretch requirement because it’s just gonna get harder. So for the Jackson Tee, for example, we say 10% minimum. I think anywhere from 10 to 50 would be fine.
But if you go with a really, really, really stretchy jersey that’s in the 80 to a hundred percent stretch range where it just stretches nonstop, it’s gonna be harder to sew. So stick with those lower stretch percentages when you’re just getting started with knits, and you’ll have an easier time.
Caroline: When you say harder to sew, Helen, can you give some examples of, like, what is hard about sewing those really stretchy fabrics?
Helen: Definitely. Well, it’s harder to handle as you’re actually trying to pin things like your sleeves into place. Um, it just becomes a little bit harder to distribute the ease of the fabric. It’s harder to run it through your machine and get a nice flat finish. You’re gonna end up getting waves in your fabric. Those little bumps that happen when your fabric gets all stretched out.
And I find that fabrics with a lot of stretch like that tend to curl more, and curling is really common with jerseys. It means that the edge of the fabric starts to roll, and that can be so frustrating as a beginner because you just are so used to flat fabrics, and then, all of a sudden, you’re working with knits ,and they’re all curly, and you’re like, what is going on?
Caroline: Yeah. Totally. And you want those curls to, sort of, flatten as you’re sewing or else you’re gonna lose some of that seam allowance, and it’s gonna become a big mess. I also find that really stretchy fabrics tend to, like, mould to your body a little bit more. So you might get more of, like, a drapey effect with something with a really, really high stretch percentage versus something with a low stretch percentage is gonna stand away from the body a little bit more.
Helen: Yeah.
Caroline: So just something to keep in mind. Alright. Our next question is from Emma Rae: “I love your podcast! I listen while I sew. I have sewn for many years and at this point I would attempt any project given the appropriate time. I made my own custom suit for my graduation photos. But I need advice on something! My fiancé is wearing a white suit at our wedding. It looks amazing! The only thing is the material is not completely opaque, so when he tried it on I could easily see the outline of the pockets.
“Do you suggest that I sew a pant lining and hand stitch it in above the pockets or should I interface each pant leg? With fusible interfacing? It’s likely that he will only wear these pants for our wedding. Our wedding is also in winter so it’s OK if the pants are warmer. I need some advice! And I don’t know very many people who do advanced sewing like this!”
Helen: Ooh. Thank you so much for asking this question, Emma Rae. First of all, congratulations on your graduation and on your engagement, too. I think you have a few options that you can choose from that will give you a good result. The simplest, most versatile option would be to make a white lining for the pants, as you suggested.
This would most likely make the white pockets invisible. You can test out whether this would work by simply holding the lining fabric up to the back of the pants fabric. You can either bring the pants to the fabric store to test out linings or maybe order some swatches. Once you’ve decided on your lining fabric, you can either sew the lining into the pants, or you could make a separate garment with an elastic waist that your fiancé can wear under the pants, kind of, like super long and silky boxer shorts.
Caroline: Ooh, that’s a great idea. Another option is that you could just focus on the pocket bags and sew or fuse a fabric in a colour close to your husband’s skin tone over the white fabric. You want to go lightweight to keep the bulk down. You could also replace the pocket bags with ones you make out of your own fabric. Just keep in mind that if you choose this option, your husband’s undergarments will also need to be in a colour close to his skin tone.
Helen: And our last idea is that you could draft a lining in a neutral colour and sew it under and around the pocket bag so that it’s in between the pockets and the pants. This option is probably the most labour intensive. But it could give a really nice result. I’m, kind of, into the long, silky boxer shorts solution.
Caroline: Yeah.
Helen: I think that sounds like a good one. And who knows, maybe he could use them for another garment, too.
Caroline: I know. I was gonna say they could be, like, shortened into actual boxers afterwards or…
Helen: Yeah.
Caroline: …I don’t know, lounge pants or something.
Helen: Yeah, totally.
Caroline: A nice pair of skin-toned, long john boxers. That’s all the questions we have today, so we are ready to get into the show. Let’s do it.
Helen: Today we are discussing different ways to approach sewing. We asked you, our listeners, what you thought about a variety of sewing topics. So for example, when is the best time to sew: morning or evening? Or are you Team Cut or Team Trace? Do you like PDF patterns or tissue? We’re gonna be sharing some of the stats from our online polling and sharing our thoughts, as well, and mostly, celebrating the diversity out there when it comes to approaching sewing.
Caroline: Yeah, absolutely. I am already, like, so excited to share my opinions about these things, Helen, so I think we’re gonna have a really good time today. But before we get going, we just wanna say this different sewists have different needs, and if what you’re doing gets the job done, then you’re doing it right. The only exception is if you clean up as you go. Like, are you some kind of tidying wizard? I don’t know. Just kidding.
Helen: There’s gonna be a lot of exceptions today. It’s, like, it’s totally fine if you do it that way, but I mean, is it though?
Caroline: But it’s all in good fun. We’re gonna have a fun time going through these, and let’s just get into it, Helen. Our first set of topics is all about sewing prep. So first up we’re gonna talk about shopping the new hotness versus shopping your stash.
Helen: Yes. Shopping for new pretty fabrics is so exciting. It really can boost your sewjo. But on the other hand, shopping your stash is really satisfying, and it feels like you’re saving money even if you’re the one who paid for it originally. Money I spent two years ago doesn’t count, right?
Caroline: Yeah. Absolutely. Sound logic. A drawback of shopping for new fabrics is that if you do it more often than you sew, you can build up quite the collection, and that can be a space issue and a money issue.
Helen: Meanwhile, shopping your stash can land you with the problem of not having quite enough yardage for what you want to make or being, like, shoehorned into something based on just the amount of fabric you had. Maybe it’s not the perfect fabric for that project. I don’t know.
Caroline: Okay. I wanna know where you come down on this, Helen.
Helen: Oh, I do both very frequently. You know I love to shop for fabric. I do it a lot, but I have a business, so I think I get away with a bit more fabric shopping than the average sewist, and I have a very large fabric stash as a result. And I love going through my fabric stash and selecting things, especially when we’re doing new patterns. And I get to shop my stash for the patterns that we’re gonna use in the upcoming photoshoot. That is always so much fun.
Caroline: Yeah, I find when I sew on a whim, I always pretty much shop my stash, and there’s something really satisfying about finding a fabric that maybe wasn’t originally intended for the project, but then, it works perfectly. And then, you make it and you’re like, thank goodness I have a stash that I can dip into.
Helen: I know it’s so, so exciting when that happens.
Caroline: Next up we’re gonna talk about PDF versus paper patterns.
Helen: Ooh, hot button topic. I’m not gonna lie. PDF patterns are pretty amazing. They’re the reason why many indie pattern companies can be successful and have businesses like myself. We can reach sewists all over the world, and a sewists halfway across the world can print out our patterns and use them just as easily as someone who lives in the same city as we do. That’s pretty cool.
Caroline: That is so true, but paper patterns are really convenient. You can take all the time you spend taping sheets together and put it towards actually sewing instead.
Helen: Yeah, but you don’t necessarily need to tape patterns together. You can get them printed at a local print shop or order them from a printing service online. Caroline, you even offer this service.
Caroline: Okay. I admit it’s convenient, and that is why we offer that service. But it does come at a price if you’re paying for the pattern, and then, the printing of the pattern. And it could take even more time than taping the sheets together because you’re having to order the pattern and then, order the print and then, wait for that to come. So it’s not, like, an instant gratification, kind of, thing.
Helen: That’s true. Taping it out is much more instantly gratifying. If you have to wait for that printer, it, kind of, takes away that bonus. But getting your hands on paper patterns isn’t necessarily any quicker. You have to buy them in person or have them shipped to you anyways.
Caroline: Yeah, but, it is nice that Big 4 patterns go on sale pretty often. It’s hard to find a better deal than those, like, 2.99 sales, right?
Helen: True.
Caroline: And you can tissue fit with paper patterns. It’s impossible to tissue fit with print at home patterns unless you trace them onto tissue paper or Swedish tracing paper or something like that.
Helen: The thing is paper patterns are hardly even an option for some plus size sewists. The Big 4 hardly have any patterns in plus sizes, and the ones they do aren’t exactly on trend. So that can be a sticking point for a lot of people.
Caroline: That’s true. I was shopping the Big 4 website recently, and I was really bummed that they didn’t have my size in a lot of the patterns I liked.
Helen: Right? You’re like, come on, get with the program.
Caroline: Yeah, if you do go with tissue patterns though, they’re much easier to store in a small space. Much less bulky, Helen.
Helen: I mean, there’s nothing less bulky than digital. Just saying.
Caroline: Okay.
Helen: No, it’s true. Once you print them out, they can be a bit unruly on that printer paper. They get really thick and bulky. Okay. We asked our listeners on Instagram which side they were on, and these were the results: 67% said they prefer PDF patterns, and 33% said they preferred paper patterns. So it’s about two thirds versus one third, and we had a ton of people answer. 2,776, to be exact. I do wanna say that I think our audience probably skews a little bit younger, especially on Instagram, so that might be why we’re getting those results. But hey, this is just for fun.
Caroline: I was gonna say, I know that you and I, full disclosure, I think we both agree that PDF patterns are better for us, personally.
Helen: Yeah.
Caroline: So I was just gonna say these, our listeners are our people. They just understand us.
Helen: I love that you get every size, and you can reprint it whenever you want to, if you wanna make it for somebody else. I think that’s a big benefit for PDF patterns. And of course, I’ve built my whole business on PDF patterns, so no surprises there.
Caroline: Yeah. Absolutely. Okay. Speaking of reprinting and getting every size and all that jazz, we’re gonna talk about cutting versus tracing next.
Helen: Yeah, so on the cut side, being able to just get into your project without adding extra steps feels amazing. If it’s not a super fitted garment, I mean, why not just cut right into your pattern?
Caroline: Yes. And as we mentioned above, printing patterns is expensive though. So if you wanna ensure you’re getting the most out of your pattern, tracing is the way to go because it allows you to preserve the pattern and just trace off the size you need.
Helen: That’s true. You can more freely make changes and adjustments on a traced version of the pattern because you’re not gonna be as concerned about preserving that original.
Caroline: And you can obviously still cut out a pattern outright and make adjustments, but you won’t have the original to refer back to or revert back to if needed.
Helen: And if you plan to use that pattern for multiple people in your life, tracing is a great way to do that because you just trace off the size you need, and then, you have that original there.
Caroline: For me, sometimes I just want to get right to it. And if you’re the kind of sewist is who sews for themselves primarily and feels confident choosing a size, you can totally go for it and just cut. I also think that when you’re dealing with a PDF pattern, you can always reprint it. So for me, I would rather reprint probably than trace.
Helen: Cost more money though. Cost more money. Cha ching. Cha ching.
Caroline: Okay. This is another topic we asked our Instagram followers. About 58% were Team Cut. Woo, sorry. And 42% were Team Trace. Those numbers are pretty dang close, and almost 3000 people responded, Helen.
Helen: I was surprised that this was, like, almost 50/50. I mean, I shouldn’t be, but as someone who prefers to cut their patterns, I was, kind of, surprised that so many people were Team Trace. But there are so many benefits to tracing, and I think it is more of a old school method, as well. So if you learned how to sew, tracing off patterns, that just feels natural, maybe.
Caroline: Yeah, I am in the same boat as you. I prefer to just cut right into my pattern.
Helen: Yeah, and I still make adjustments, but I just don’t have that original to refer to unless I print off another copy. But again, being a pattern designer, I’m printing things all the time, so I don’t really think too hard about hitting that print button.
Caroline: Yeah, totally. Okay. This next one’s pretty juicy, too. Making a muslin versus just going for it.
Helen: Ooh. Okay. Sometimes making a muslin feels like one more thing my sewjo just cannot handle, so I just go for it and see what happens.
Caroline: That works fine up until the moment you try it on and it’s all wonky, then it might be too late to get the right fit.
Helen: Yeah, that’s true. But if you are using a pattern company that usually fits you, or if the garment is, like, more loose fitting, then I think it’s a little bit less risky.
Caroline: Okay, that’s totally true, but a muslin doesn’t have to take forever and look perfect. I’m all for quick and dirty muslins, especially if it’s a high stakes project. And you can use long basing stitches to put it together and only make a muslin of the parts that need to fit a specific way.
Helen: You know what takes less time than making a quick and dirty muslin, though? Not making one at all.
Caroline: Yes, and there is sometimes joy in seeing what happens. It’s, like, a little rush from taking the risk.
Helen: Yeah, it can really motivate you with your sewjo. Caroline, I feel like you often make wearable muslins versus I am more in the quick and dirty, use the actual, like, cotton muslin fabric, kind of, muslin-er.
Caroline: I do more often than not make a wearable muslin ‘cause I just can’t bring myself to make something that I can’t wear.
Helen: I know it is, kind of, funny when you’re cutting out, like, that muslin fabric, you’re like, this feels like a waste. But I love how fast it is because I’m not trying to make it perfect. Like, I’m not trying to actually make something wearable, so I can just go so fast. I’m just throwing it together.
Caroline: Just throwing it on.
Helen: Yeah.
Caroline: Okay. Our Instagram followers responded to this. 35% said muslin, and 65% said no muslin. That’s about two-thirds of people just going for it. No muslin needed. I don’t know.
Helen: This doesn’t surprise me. I think it is like, you know, people have limited sewing time, and they just wanna get right to the fun part with the good stuff.
Caroline: Okay. Our next set of topics is all about fabric.
Helen: Yes, we’re going to be debating first whether in-store shopping is better than online shopping. And I would say the best thing about shopping in-store is that you can see and feel the fabric. I mean, that’s huge. You can tell how it’s gonna feel on your skin. You can see how much drape it has. You can even hold it up to yourself in front of a mirror and see how the colour’s gonna look on you.
Caroline: I agree with that. It is nice to feel before you buy, but the variety of fabrics you can find online is unbeatable unless you live in a city with a big fabric district. You can find almost any fabric online or even order custom fabric.
Helen: Oh, that’s true. But then you do still have to wait for it to be delivered to you, and you have to pay that extra for shipping unless you’re up in like a high, cost amount for your shopping cart. And if you want to start a project ASAP, shopping in person is a really fun way to get started.
Caroline: Yeah, that’s true. I mean, I love looking at fabrics online on my phone. I have been known to shop Blackbird Fabrics, my very own store, while I’m lounging on the couch. And then, I don’t have to drive anywhere. I don’t have to put on pants. It’s the best, I mean, I know I’m biased, but you know.
Helen: I’m with you here. I’m, what do they say on Sound Like Occult? Devil’s Avocado.
Caroline: The Devil’s Avocado. Yes.
Helen: I’m playing Devil’s Avocado here because I do mostly shop online, as well, but shopping in person is a really great way to find good deals. Like, big stores usually have great coupons, plus there’s like thrift stores, discount fabric stores, and creative reuse stores that have really the best prices on fabric if you’re on a budget.
Caroline: But if you have a really specific idea of what you’d like to make, it’s probably best to buy one piece of fabric you really want, instead of three pieces you don’t. And like indie pattern companies, there are some fabulous online only fabric stores out there that are successful because they’re able to reach so many customers online. And by supporting them, you’re supporting a small business.
Helen: Well, I obviously love shopping online, but when I get the chance, I also really enjoy shopping in person. I mean, it’s so fun to go to a fabric store while you’re traveling. We’re talking about that this month on the podcast, as well. It’s fun to pick up a souvenir or fun to support your local, small business, as well, if there’s a local sewing shop in your area. So do a little bit of both. Who says you can’t have it all?
Caroline: Okay, Helen, but let’s be real. Where do you fall? Are you more of an in-store shopper or an online shopper?
Helen: I’m more of an online shopper.
Caroline: Yeah. I feel like I have to say, me, too, because, like, I own an online fabric store.
Helen: Blackbird Fabrics for life.
Caroline: Alright. Next up is knits versus wovens. Okay, Helen. Stretchy clothes are the most comfortable clothes. I will die on this hill. Definitely a point in favour of knits. Come on.
Helen: I am not so sure about that. I mean, a roomy cotton house dress or an elastic waist linen pants, those rank near the top of my most comfy ever list.
Caroline: Oh, it’s true. But knit patterns are so easy to sew – no darts, no extra seams. I have been known to sew up a t-shirt in an hour or less.
Helen: Ooh, that’s true. But as we discussed at the top of the show, getting the hang of sewing with knits isn’t always easy. And there are special machines that help, but you might not have them. Woven fabrics are great on a regular machine, and fabrics like cotton lawn are so stable and nice to sew. I mean, that is a beginner fabric.
Caroline: Okay. True. But once you get a handle on it, you can make some of the most wearable stuff with knits. At least half of what people wear today is made of knit fabric. And if you wanna sew a full wardrobe, you’re gonna need to learn how to sew knits. Most people want knit tops, leggings, sweatpants, sweaters, undies, and swimsuits. I can’t imagine a wardrobe without those things.
Helen: Oh, that’s true, but woven fabrics last longer though. Knits usually get stretched out after a certain amount of washing and wearing, and I find my woven garments tend to last a little bit longer.
Caroline: Oh, Helen. I don’t even know where I land on this one.
Helen: If you had to choose one for the rest of your sewing life, which one are you choosing? It’s not knits. I know it’s not knits.
Caroline: For the rest of my sewing life? Or for the rest of my practical life?
Helen: The rest of your sewing life For all the, all the fabrics you’re gonna sew for the rest of time. It’s not knits. I’m sorry.
Caroline: I know. I just have one cubby of knits, and I have, like, seven cubbies of wovens, so that probably speaks for itself.
Helen: Oh, my gosh. But honestly, of course you want both. I love knits. Don’t get me wrong. Knits are great.
Caroline: We can have it all.
Helen: We can have it all. Okay, this next one’s a doozy: tumble dry versus hang to dry.
Caroline: Ooh. Okay. I feel like we’re gonna land on different sides of this one.
Helen: Okay. Hanging to dry makes your clothes last longer, and it uses less energy. Boom. Mic drop.
Caroline: Okay. Correction. Hanging to dry uses less electricity, but it takes more of my energy and time to hang everything up, and I don’t always have that. Using a tumble dryer makes my clothes feel softer, and they’re ready to wear a lot sooner than when I hang them up, which I never do, especially in winter.
Helen: Okay, but what about when you don’t take your clothes out of the dryer right away and then, they end up all wrinkled? Or God forbid they get damaged in the washer or dryer. When you hang dry, you can smooth them out, and they will dry without needing any ironing.
Caroline: Okay, but then, they’re crunchy. Can we talk about the crunch?
Helen: Not all fabrics get crunchy, but some fabrics get real crunchy.
Caroline: I don’t know. I don’t think it’s a huge deal to take your wrinkle-prone clothes out of the dryer right away and hang them up. Plus, I don’t love hanging clothes drying all over my living space. You know, I love an aesthetic space, Helen. C’mon.
Helen: I know. Oh, when I lived in my apartment in Vancouver, I had a balcony, and it was a covered balcony. There was, like, another balcony above us, and I screwed a pole into the balcony above me, probably wasn’t supposed to do that, but I screwed a pole up there so that I could hang all my clothes to dry out on my balcony. So there was always, like, my entire wardrobe was always out on the balcony drying.
Caroline: Oh, I remember.
Helen: Air dried. You know, it’s just, it smells nice, too. I mean, taking things off the line. Mm. Love it.
Caroline: I do think that if I ever have, like, a clothesline in my backyard, I might use it ‘cause there’s something really sweet and idyllic about having clothes hanging on a line.
Helen: Right. You should get one of those umbrella ones that spins.
Caroline: Oh, yes!
Helen: That would be cool. You have a big enough yard for it.
Caroline: I know I just wanna go outside in the summertime and in my, like, cotton cottage core dress and, like, pull sheets off of the line.
Helen: I love how we’re romanticising laundry right now. I feel like all the parents out there are gonna be like, oh, my goodness.
Caroline: Okay, but where do you stand on this, Helen? Do you have a preference?
Helen: I mostly tumble dry my clothes, but there are things that I pull out and hang to dry because they’re precious or I don’t want them to get damaged. Or if there’s really long, like, straps or ties on things, I get worried that they’re gonna get all tangled up. So I like to pull those out. I’m not as hardcore about hanging my laundry to dry as when I was in my apartment, but that’s mostly because I don’t have that cool bar anymore. I need to set that up again.
Caroline: You also have laundry in your home now. Whereas before you used to have to wash your stuff in a laundry room, right?
Helen: Yeah, and I had to pay for it.
Caroline: Yeah. Totally.
Helen: So you know, you can save a few bucks. Hang it up.
Caroline: Absolutely. Well, I am tumble dry for life. How about rotary cutter versus scissors? Another hot button topic.
Helen: People have very strong preferences about this one, and it’s often because one is easier to use than the other, easier on the hands, or easier to control. And it’s worth trying both out to find out what works best for you ‘cause one might be easier than another. I don’t think one of them is inherently easier. I think it really depends on you.
Caroline: And your preferences and all of that.
Helen: Yeah.
Caroline: Okay. Rotary cutters are so, fast though. can we just talk about that for a second? I probably cut my pieces out in half the time it would take to pin and cut them with scissors,
Helen: Oh, maybe, even in, like…
Caroline: That’s a point for rotary
Helen: …a 10th of the time.
Caroline: Yeah.
Helen: I haven’t cut something out with scissors for a while, but it takes a, it takes a long time. Rotary cutting does take more equipment and space than cutting with scissors, though. You might need a cutting mat, a rotary cutter, extra blades, pattern weights, a big table. That gets expensive and you still have to have scissors. So whereas if you only cut with scissors, then you only need those and some pins.
Caroline: Yeah. Rotary cutting definitely has a startup cost for sure, but I think it’s worth it. I find it’s easier on my back than using scissors because you spend less time bent over your surface, and it can be easier on your hands because you’re not opening and closing scissors over and over and over and over.
Helen: Ooh, that’s true. People have been making really beautiful things for ages without using fancy rotary cutters, you definitely don’t have to use a rotary cutter to be a good sewist. That’s for sure.
Caroline: That is so true. Okay. Our Insta poll was really close for this one: 55% of respondents voted rotary cutter, and 45% of respondents voted scissors.
Helen: Ooh, that’s interesting. I like that. 50/50
Caroline: I will also say one point for scissors is that you don’t really have to, like, sharpen them as much as you would have to change the blade on your rotary cutter. And is there anything worse than, like, putting in a new blade and realising it has a little kink in it and you have to change it again because it’s, like, skipping one singular thread and pulling your fabric? It’s just not fun.
Helen: No, that’s true. Rotary cutters can be, kind of, annoying in that way.
Caroline: Okay, Let’s get into some clothing construction topics, and the first thing we’re gonna talk about is following the pattern versus winging it. Ooh, I can’t wait to hear what you think of this one, Helen.
Helen: Okay. Following pattern instructions has saved me from a ton of mistakes, and I feel like you’re bound to forget a step or mess something up if you’re just going through winging it.
Caroline: Okay. It probably depends on how experienced you are and how complicated the garment is. I know the techniques I like to use, so most of the time I’d rather do my own technique regardless of what they recommend in the pattern booklet. And for something like a t-shirt, following pattern instructions would just slow me down. Like, I know what I’m doing here.
Helen: Yeah, but sometimes Caroline, a pattern booklet includes a new technique that you might absolutely love, or you might accidentally skip a step that would make things really tough down the line. I feel like you should at least look through the steps before you wing it, like, at least once.
Caroline: You’re right. I usually do, but then I make my own decisions because I’m an independent woman, and I can sew a fly however I wanna sew a fly.
Helen: Oh, my gosh. You can so a fly from memory. That’s crazy.
Caroline: In sewing there are usually a bunch of ways to do things right, and as long as it looks good and is functional, who cares If you follow the steps? Come on.
Helen: I care. I care. I put literally hours of my life and blood, sweat, and tears into every instruction booklet, and I think about it really hard, and I’m upset that you don’t read it.
Caroline: I do. I do.
Helen: I’m just teasing. No, I totally get it, especially with simple garments. And oftentimes, the instructions, I mean, they’re there for people who need them, right? So if you know how to do a step and you breeze on by, you know, my instructions for how to do gathering or whatever, I’m not offended. It’s totally okay.
Caroline: Thank you, Helen.
Helen: But I love reading instruction booklets, so I usually follow them to the T because I’m curious how the designer has thought out the various steps and the approach that they’re gonna take. So I think that’s just the, designer in me wanting to, like, have a little sneak peek into somebody else’s process.
Caroline: I know you’ve been known to read these before bed.
Helen: It’s good reading. Okay. Our next subject is bias tape finish versus facing finish. Ooh, I really like this one. Okay. Making bias tape takes forever, and I know a lot of sewists hate making it because they’ve told us how much they hate making it and how annoying they find it. So that’s definitely a point against bias tape.
Caroline: Okay, but bias tape gives such a clean, lovely finish on a garment, and it doesn’t flap around or get wrinkled up like a facing can.
Helen: But you can tack facings down at nearby seams so they don’t move around. Another good thing about facings is that they’re less bulky than a bias tape finish, and it can be tricky to get a bias tape finish to lay flat, especially for beginners.
Caroline: Okay. But there are techniques you can use to make sure bias tape lays flat. We’ve shared them on the show before.
Helen: This is true. And you know what? Facings don’t always lay flat either. Let’s be real.
Caroline: Yeah. You might need to top stitch them down.
Helen: Yeah, exactly. I love a top stitched facing, like…
Caroline: I do, too.
Helen: If it’s just bias tape versus facing, I think I fall on the bias tape side because I really love that finish. But if it’s bias tape versus top stitched facings, then you might have me. I don’t know.
Caroline: I don’t even know where I fall on this. I feel like I’m right down the middle because I love a facing, and I also love a bias tape finish, especially since I got my Simplicity bias tape maker from one of our lovely listeners who sold theirs to me. I mean, it’s really life changing,
Helen: Yeah, that is, makes it so much faster to make those bias tape, and, like, it is a, a technique that you wanna practise and get quick at. So I think it’s always nice when you get a, an opportunity to do some bias finishing. But facings can be so satisfying, and they can be lengthened into linings, as well, a lot of the time, if you want to go to a full lining instead of a facing. This is why we included both finishes in the Ashton Top because I wanted people to have both those options ‘cause it, it does change the look of the top. Like, with the bias binding, it’s a bit more casual. With the facing, it’s a little bit more elegant, so sometimes you just need one over the other.
Caroline: It’s true. Okay. The results of this polo are, kind of, hilarious because even though almost 3000 people responded, the results were 50/50.
Helen: Now that is a divisive topic.
Caroline: Okay, next up serged seams versus french seams. Okay. The best thing about using a serger, Helen, is that it sews trims and finishes a seam all at once. It’s at least twice as fast as any other seam finish and probably three times as fast as french seams.
Helen: Okay, that’s true. But french seams are stronger than regular seams. They make the inside of the garment look beautiful, too. So I would say they’re worth the extra time.
Caroline: I think that most seams do just fine with serging and since I’m the only one looking at the inside of my clothes, I’m not sure it’s worth it to spend all the extra time making it look perfect.
Helen: Wow, Caroline. What about self-care? Don’t you wanna look inside your clothes and think, wow, what a beautiful french seam.
Caroline: No.
Helen: Okay, and not everyone can afford a serger, though. French seams can be done on a regular machine, and they can’t be beat for delicate and sheer fabrics. So, point in favour of the french seam.
Caroline: That’s true. And uh, to be completely honest, I have been known to do french seams when I’m feeling too lazy to change the colour of thread on my serger. If it’s a really simple make, I’ll just do the french seams.
Helen: Yeah, that’s true. I’m swayed by that, as well. And if it’s really a short seam, sometimes I’ll opt for a french seam. Like, several of our patterns, there’s only one or two exposed seams, like say a shoulder seam and a side seam. And in that case I’m like, yeah, I’ll go for the French because it’s gonna be pretty quick, and it will give that nice finish, you know?
Caroline: Oui, oui.
Helen: Oui, oui. But you know, I love my serger – Juki MO654D.
Caroline: Yeah.
Helen: I have it memorised ‘cause I got asked about it a lot. It’s a great serger. If you’re looking for one, that’s the one.
Caroline: Oh, I love it. I have it, too, and we have it at the office. It’s, it’s great. It’s great, great, great. Okay, so what are you, Team Serger or Team French Seams.
Helen: I mean, most of the time I’m using my serger, so I guess I have to put myself in the serger camp.
Caroline: Me, too. Button fly versus zip fly.
Helen: Ooh, okay. The zip fly is the standard for a reason. It’s functional, and it’s low profile.
Caroline: Okay. But button flies are so cute and retro though, and it’s great to be able to do something special on your me-made garment like that. Plus, you can use flatter buttons if you want a lower profile.
Helen: Okay, but the fabric on button flies sometimes shows wear on the front. Also, I feel like a zipper is more reliable than a button. I don’t know why. I just feel like it’s more secure.
Caroline: I don’t know though, you can use strong buttons that you hammer on, and those are not gonna fall off. And zippers do break. Is there anything worse than having to replace a zipper? I feel like I’ve said that a few times in this episode. So there’s, there probably are worse things than having to replace a zipper.
Helen: Is there anything worse?
Caroline: Is there anything worse? Yes. Yes, Caroline.
Helen: And you might find zippers are easier to use though than a bunch of fiddly button, especially if you have arthritis in your hands.
Caroline: That’s true.
Helen: And, like, let’s be real, if you go to the bathroom and then you stand up and you have to do up your pants, what do you wanna have there? A zipper or a bunch of stupid buttons.
Caroline: I do have to pee a lot. So a zipper.
Helen: Yeah. Yeah, I’m very much Team Zipper on this one. Although, I do really like the look of a button fly. I’m looking at you Lander Pants.
Caroline: Yeah.
Helen: I mean, so cute.
Caroline: And I don’t mind how it wears sometimes and shows, like, if there’s, like, a shield in front of the buttons and the fabric, kind of, like, fades a little bit in the shape of the buttons.
Helen: That’s true. And you get that with zippers, too. You’ll often get, like, a line of fabric on the shield that’s, like, wearing in the spot where the zipper is. So I mean, either way you’re getting wear, and that’s just part of denim.
Caroline: Yeah. Alright, so when you’re sewing buttons, Helen, what do you think about sewing buttons on by hand versus sewing buttons on by machine?
Helen: Ooh.
Caroline: I have a feeling I know where you stand on this one.
Helen: I’ve mentioned it a few times on the show. I’m definitely a sewing buttons on by hand gal. I think it’s quick and easy once you get the hang of the hand sewing. Setting up the machine to sew the buttons on probably takes almost as much time as sitting down and just sewing them on by hand, in my opinion.
Caroline: Okay. But for people who don’t like hand sewing, doing them by machine would probably be easier. Plus, once you have the machine set up, you can do button after button i you have a bunch of the same size to sew on.
Helen: That’s true, but you don’t need any special machine feet to sew buttons on by hand. All you need is a needle and thread.
Caroline: Okay, but once again, some of us don’t like hand sewing.
Helen: Okay, well, some of us are wrong, so…
Caroline: I actually love using my button foot, and I love when I can sew a button on my machine. I will absolutely do it.
Helen: I think I have just had bad luck with my button foot. Like, I always break needles, or I break the button. Like, something always goes wrong when I try to use my button foot to sew on buttons. So that’s probably why I’m in the hand sewing camp.
Caroline: Okay. Okay.
Helen: Okay. Our next one is fusible versus sew-in interfacing, I mean, fusible interfacing is obviously great because it becomes part of the fabric that you’re working with. Sew-in interfacing can shift around depending on how big of a piece it is.
Caroline: But some fabrics can’t be fused. I’m thinking delicate synthetics and silk fabrics. Sew-in interfacing was the standard from the beginning of time until the mid-20th century. So you can definitely make gorgeous stuff with just sew-in interfacing.
Helen: For some reason, I just had a vision of, like, dinosaurs, sewing with sew-in interfacing.
Caroline: The beginning of time.
Helen: Making little dinosaur suits. Okay, that is all true, but it’s a little bit harder to use since you have to baste it to the fabric instead of just ironing it on. Fusible interfacing is more foolproof as long as you follow the instructions.
Caroline: I don’t know. I hate it when fusible interfacing peels away from the fabric even when I fused it correctly. It’s easier to gauge the quality of sew-in interfacing because you can just use good quality fabric.
Helen: That’s very true. I feel like I underutilise sew-in interfacing. I’ll almost always opt for fusible just ‘cause it’s what I’m used to, and I have a lot of it in my studio, and I find it pretty fast and easy, but it’s, kind of, messy. Like, it messes up your ironing board. Things get all sticky. Things can get shifted out of place. I don’t know. I do think sew-in interfacing probably has more benefits than I’m giving it credit for.
Caroline: Fusible interfacing is a pain in the buns to cut out, too.
Helen: Yeah. Oh, I mean, that might be my least favorite step in sewing, just in all the sewing steps is cutting fusible.
Caroline: Is there anything worse?
Helen: Is there literally anything worse than cutting out fusible interfacing? No.
Caroline: Oh, my gosh. Okay. Our next one is snip threads as you go versus sniping them at the end.
Helen: Ooh, I really like this one. I feel like this is a super divisive one. Like, people either do one or the other. So if you snip threads at the end, you most likely are saving a bit of time. Overall, they say that you should batch tasks in sewing because switching between tasks can slow you down. So if you’re trying to go fast, you can just leave all your little thread tails and get ’em all at the end.
Caroline: Okay. But some of those threads are definitely gonna get forgotten, and you’re gonna have to snip some threads in between any way, like the ones at the ends of the seams that get enclosed.
Helen: But if you’re gonna trim seam allowances anyway, the threads will get cut as you trim. So if you snip the threads and then you’re going back to trim, then you’re basically sniping the threads twice. It’s not efficient.
Caroline: Okay. But I don’t think snipping threads along the way takes all that much extra time. It, sort of, becomes a mindless habit. So we’re not talking a lot of extra energy here. You know, I don’t like to expel extra energy, Helen.
Helen: Well, then why are you sniping your threads and then trimming them, Caroline? Okay, in our poll, our Insta followers were 77% snip as I go, and only 23% snip at the end. So sniping along the way definitely has the numbers on this one.
Caroline: I will say, ha-, like, have you ever seen a finished garment with no threads that have been snipped?
Helen: No.
Caroline: It’s pretty hilarious. It’s pretty funny.
Helen: It’s like it’s got little hairs.
Caroline: It’s so hairy, and it’s, like, kind of, funny to look at. So, yeah, there’s one point in its favour.
Helen: Yeah, I was gonna say total point in favour. It’s, like, gives it another level of personality. Okay. I was playing Devil’s Avocado, but I definitely snip as I go when I’m sewing. I love, like, taking it off the machine and snipping the threads real close.
Caroline: Sometimes I even snip before I’m finished sewing a seam. Like, I’ll start sewing, and then, I’ll go snip the thread at the back, and then, I’ll continue sewing.
Helen: That’s, like, a true procrastination technique.
Caroline: It’s so true. Oh, my gosh.
Helen: Okay, the next one is, kind of, similar. This is press after every seam versus pressing when absolutely necessary.
Caroline: So going between your machine and your ironing board to press after every seam has the benefit of getting your blood flowing and adding movement to your day, which is a positive thing for most people. Rose Parr told us in the Sewing Ergonomics episode.
Helen: Yes, and if moving around a lot when sewing doesn’t work for you, you can even set up an ironing pad next to your machine, so you can still press after every seam if you want.
Caroline: But pressing only when absolutely necessary saves a lot of time. And there are very few people who can raise their hand and say they have way too much time to sew.
Helen: This is true. Pressing after every seam is how a sewing instructor would probably teach you how to do it, and there’s a reason for that. Keeping everything neat and flat keeps you from accidentally sewing tucks into your seams. It makes for a neater garment in the end.
Caroline: Let’s be real though. You don’t have to press absolutely everything. Like, does every single shoulder seam need to be pressed to the back? Or can you just fold it that way right before you sew the sleeves on? As long as you’re holding everything flat when it goes through the machine, there won’t be any tucks.
Helen: This is true, but I feel like pressing as you go is a little bit easier. Like, if you take your garment to the sewing machine to press those shoulder seams, it’s nice and easy because there’s no sleeve getting in the way, and then, you sew your sleeve on, and then, you go back to press your sleeve. I mean, it’s a lot harder to get into some of those areas once the garment’s constructed. So I think pressing as you go is actually easier.
Caroline: Okay. I think you’re right. I actually, kind of, like an in-between method, and you taught me this: sort of, like, sewing all the seams that I can sew before I need to press before the seam intersects with something else, and then, I go and, like, batch press. So it’s, kind of, the best of both worlds.
Helen: That’s true. Yeah. You, kind of, break it up a little bit and just use your judgement about when is a good time to go to the ironing board.
Caroline: Yeah.
Helen: I like sewing all the little things for my project at once, too. Like, I’ll sew all the little ties, or I’ll sew the collar, things like that that are separate pieces, just so I can sit at my machine and do a bunch of things, and then, I’ll start constructing the garment. So sometimes I guess I do go off script from the pattern. Oh no, I’m, I’m contradicting myself now.
Caroline: You’re just playing Devil’s Avocado.
Helen: Yeah.
Caroline: Our final few topics are all about sewing habits. This next one is a good one: late night sewing versus daytime sewing.
Helen: Ooh, I know we’re in separate camps for this one, so I’ll take this first one here, daytime sewing has a big advantage of better lighting. Plus, if you need to run to the store to pick up more thread, the store will be open.
Caroline: You can put good lighting in your sewing space. Late night is great because it’s quiet. There are fewer people asking you to go on errands. There’s no meals to cook. Just you, your machine, and a fridge full of snacks.
Helen: Okay. In terms of sleep hygiene, there’s a good argument to be made for sleeping when it’s dark outside, just saying, and not staying up too late to fight with your machine over a thread bunching incident.
Caroline: Hygiene, smygiene, Helen. I will stay up all night sewing if I want to. Okay. Not everyone has the same sleep schedule. Actually, I think there’s an argument to be made that sleep rhythms are biological, and we should just let night owls be night owls.
Helen: Okay. If you’re truly a night owl, I get that, but what if you just really, really want to finish your dress and you stay up late giving it a wonky hem because you’re rushing? It probably would’ve been better to stop sewing and finish it when you’re more well-rested. Tell me I’m wrong. No. What if your flight is at, like, 7:00 AM the next morning though? You don’t really have a choice. You have to finish it.
Caroline: True, but you know, I have pulled an all-nighter sewing something before having to get on a flight, and I just finished the hem once I landed.
Helen: Amazing. Okay. Here’s how our Instagram followers responded. We had 61% on the daytime sewist camp, and 39% were the late night sewists.
Caroline: Yeah, those are my people. I think it’s obvious where we stand on this one.
Helen: Indeed.
Caroline: Okay. How about slow and steady versus frantic chaos?
Helen: Okay. There’s something very satisfying about taking your time and making something really beautiful. Let’s call it mindful making, or you could call it slow sewing, whatever you call it, it’s therapeutic to just take your time.
Caroline: Okay. But sometimes what I want to call it is done. If I get the same garment out of the process, when I take days to make it as when I take weeks to make it, I don’t really wanna take the weeks option.
Helen: But it’s not always the same garment. I mean, couture level hand sewn finishes take time.
Caroline: Beautiful finishes are nice to look at but have someone stand four feet away and try to tell the difference between a hand finish and a machine finish. I don’t think most people would be able to, and it feels amazing to finish a project at high speed. I’m a speed demon.
Helen: I mean, yes, or it could just be stressful.
Caroline: Yeah, that’s true.
Helen: I do both. I am often in my sewing room frantic sewing, trying to get something down as fast as possible, and sometimes, I like to take my time, so I’m not quite sure where I stand on this one. I feel like I’m, kind of, sure where you stand though.
Caroline: Yeah. I like a speedy sew.
Helen: Yeah. This last one is tidy as you go versus tidy at the end. Versus never tidy, I guess.
Caroline: Okay. If you tidy as you go, then when you’re finished with your garment, you can just enjoy it fully instead of starting on a big cleaning session right when you’re finished.
Helen: Tidying as you go can really slow you down though. Like, I’d rather do a big tidy at the end and not have it as part of my sewing time instead of doing a lot of tidying throughout.
Caroline: It doesn’t really feel like tidying if you’re doing it tiny bit by tiny bit though, and if you don’t have a sewing room, it could get annoying to have a big mess in your living space.
Helen: Or you could just choose not to be annoyed and just sew and sew and sew until you absolutely have to tidy at the very end. That’s always an option.
Caroline: I guess. I actually like to tidy at the end. I definitely like to tidy, but I usually save it ‘til the end.
Helen: Yeah, I like to just focus on the sewing and make a big mess. And then, I go around, and I don’t even often tidy at the end. I’m more of, like, a once a week tidy upper.
Caroline: We’re tidy at the beginning of the next one.
Helen: Yeah, exactly. Sometimes it’s the first thing I do before I start my next project, which can be, kind of, nice. I will say when I cook, I like to do the dishes as I go. So I don’t know, maybe I should start implementing that in my sewing practice.
Caroline: Yeah, I do that, too. It’s so much better than letting all the dishes pile up and having to do them all at the end.
Helen: Agreed.
Caroline: Let’s do a cooking-themed this way or that way.
Helen: Let’s have a cooking podcast.
Caroline: Oh, my gosh. Yes! Alright. That’s all we have for our episode today. The truth is everyone probably comes down somewhere on a spectrum for each of these topics, but it was really fun to talk about the benefits and drawbacks and hear what you all do in your sewing practices.
Helen: And as always, we are a hundred percent in favour of whatever makes your sewing a good time.
Helen: That’s it for today’s episode of Love to Sew. You can find me Helen at HelensClosetPatterns.com and CedarQuiltCo.com. You can find Caroline at BlackbirdFabrics.com. We’re recording in beautiful British Columbia, Canada.
Caroline: Go to LoveToSewPodcast.com to find our show notes. They’re filled with links and pictures from this episode. And if you’d like to get in touch with us, you can leave us a voicemail message at 1-844-SEW-WHAT. That’s 1-844-739-9428. Or send us an email at hello@LoveToSewPodcast.com.
Helen: And if you love Love To Sew and want more, you can sign up for our Patreon. For $5 a month, you get a full length bonus episode and weekly behind the scenes pictures. For $10 a month you get all that plus a mini episode focused on sewing techniques and 15% off codes for Helen’s Closet and Blackbird Fabrics. Patreon is the best way to support us so that we can keep making quality sewing content for you. Go to patreon.com/LoveToSew for more info.
Caroline: Thanks to our amazing podcast team. Lisa Ruiz is our creative assistant. Jordan Moore of the Pod Cabin is our editor. And Margaret Wakelee is our transcriber. And thank you all for listening. We’ll talk to you next week.
Helen: Buh-bye.
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