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Transcript:

Caroline: We are recording today on the traditional, ancestral, and unceded territories of the Coast Salish and Kwakwaka’wakw peoples, including Tsleil-Waututh, Squamish, Musqueam, and K’ómoks first nations.

Hello, and welcome to Love to Sew. I’m Caroline, the owner of Blackbird Fabrics.

Helen: And I’m Helen, the designer behind Helen’s Closet Patterns.

Caroline: We’re two sewing buds who love to sew our own clothes and want to encourage you on your sewing journey, too.

Helen: Join us for today’s topic: Bralettes.

Caroline: Hi, Helen.

Helen: Hi, Caroline.

Caroline: How are you?

Helen: I’m excellent. How are you?

Caroline: I’m good. Wearing a bralette.

Helen: I’m always wearing a bralette.

Caroline: Me, too.

Helen: Or a tank top.

Caroline: We’ll talk about that.

Helen: Or no bra.

Caroline: Yeah. We’ll talk about our feelings about bras in a minute, I’m sure.

Helen: Yes, we will. But we have some feedback to kick off today’s episode, and this is about our Hems episode. We mentioned the Dritz Deluxe Chalk Hem Marker, which is that little do-hickey that shoots chalk dust onto your hem when you stand next to it. We asked if any of our listeners have tried it and whether they liked it or not, and we did get a couple of responses.

Malin wrote, “I am working with it almost on a daily basis and it is gold. Sometimes you have to give it a good shake, so it works again (the chalks gets clumpy sometimes) but it’s just the best. Of course, some fabrics just lose it quite quickly and you have to mark it with other things like thread, for example, but it is still great. You didn’t mention it, but there is a similar tool, much more expensive though, that shoots threads into your garment!!! I love it but I don’t have that on hand right now.”

Caroline: I, I wonder what Malin does that they are using a hem marker on a daily basis.

Helen: I don’t know, maybe…

Caroline: A ton of sewing?

Helen: Yeah. Or, like, wedding dresses? I’m imagining all the times people are standing up on those plinths.

Caroline: Yeah, it’s true. Professional Hemmer Malin.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: Oh, no. But it, it is great to hear that this tool works well for you, and that thread shooting tool sounds really interesting. We Googled it, but we actually couldn’t find it. So if anyone has more info, please send it our way. In our search, we did find a hem marker by WAWAK that inserts straight pins into your garment at the hem height you want, which sounds handy, but maybe dangerous. I mean, I’m sure it’s fine unless…

Helen: Don’t stand too close to the fabric.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Like, shoots at, like, what speed?

Caroline: Exactly. Yeah, I know. Like, is it shooting or are they just, is it just, like, gently inserting?

Helen: Like, a little hand comes…

Caroline: In a very controlled way.I know it needs to be a very gentle touch.

Helen: Okay. Denise also wrote in, um, that they use the hem marker when she teaches classes and she said, “You can buy refills of the chalk powder. My one tip is to ensure that whomever the ‘hem-ee’ is, that they don’t look down at their project whilst it’s being marked, otherwise, it distorts how the garment hangs.”

Such a good tip.

Caroline: Oh, yeah. This makes me think of when I was hemming my bias cut dress, and, like, it would just move so easily, and I had to be so still and so careful about how I placed the dress on my body when Shea was marking the hem because any little twist or bend, it would just totally get out of whack, so…

Helen: Yeah, you can’t look down and make sure he is doing it right cause you have to stand perfectly still.

Caroline: You need the mirror. You need a mirror so you can, like, observe but not move.

Helen: Oh, fair. That’s smart.

Caroline: But we only heard good things about the chalk powder hem marker. So now we all know this is one that’s worth it.

Um, and we also have an update about using Crayola washable markers on fabric. When our creative assistant Lisa made a reel where she tested them out on a bunch of fabrics, the comments poured in. A lot of commenters, including former guest Saremy of Sew Sew Live, who we would trust with our lives, recommended Crayola Ultra Clean Washable markers as the best ones to use on fabric. And we had commenters saying that even through ironing and long periods of time, the marks have come out in the wash. As always, test on the fabric you’re going to use – one commenter said she was going to mark on a corner of her fabric before putting them in to pre-wash. This is such a great idea. Get two things done at once.

Helen: Yeah. That’s true.

Caroline: Love it.

Helen: Just have to remember.

Caroline: Yeah. Okay. I think it’s time to get to the show.

Helen: Yes, get comfy y’all ‘cause we’re gonna talk about bralettes this episode. And to kick things off, let’s try and define a bralette.

Caroline: First, we have to decide how we’re gonna say it ‘cause I say bralette.

Helen: Bra-… That’s what I’m saying – bralette.

Caroline: You said bralette.

Helen: Bralette.

Caroline: Bralette.

Helen: Well, we’ll have to ask our listeners. We’ll have to do a poll. I don’t say bralette, I say bralette.

Caroline: Okay. We’ll just go our own way. We’ll just each say it our own way. It’ll be perfect.

Helen: I’m fine with that.

Caroline: Okay. So a bralette is a wireless bra that’s designed for comfort. They’re usually stretchy, but sometimes they have non-stretch elements. And most bralettes do not offer as much support as traditional wired bras. This can be a plus for people who prefer a less structured garment or a more natural look. It can be a minus for people who need extra support or who like a more lifted, rounded look.

Helen: And many bralettes are designed for those with small busts relative to their size. It can be hard for big busted people to find a bralette that fits well and gives good support. But there are some patterns being made for sewists with larger busts, and we’re here for it. We’ll talk more about specific patterns later in the episode, and we also have an episode all about bra making with past guest Emerald Erin in our archives. It would be a great pair with this episode today. It’s Episode 53, and we’ll link that in the show notes.

Caroline: Bralettes come in several styles. One of the simplest styles is a tank or camisole style. They don’t have seams or darts for bust shaping. Instead, they support the bust with the stretch of the fabric. Most have a band under the bust, though some don’t.

Helen: Triangle styles are another simple style. They have triangle cups, typically with a dart or a seam for shaping that comes up from the under bust band.

Caroline: And there are some bralettes that look more like a traditional bra with a two or three piece cup, bra straps, and a shaped band.

Helen: Some bralettes pull on over your head while others close in the back or the front with hooks and eyes.

Caroline: And some are made of soft and stretchy jersey. Some are super lacy. Some have foam cups or a thin layer of bra foam while others are made of sheer bra tulle.

Helen: So this gives you an idea of some of the design choices that you’ll make when you’re choosing a pattern and fabric and sewing up your bralettes. What style you choose will depend on what you plan to wear it underneath and what situations you’ll wear it in and what kind of support you want.

Caroline: So how do bralettes give support? ‘Cause I don’t necessarily think of a bralette as really that supportive at all.

Helen: No. It doesn’t give you the kind of support that you think of when you think of an underwire bra.

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: But stretchy bralettes often rely on negative ease to give support. So, in other words, the stretchy fabric wraps tightly or a little bit snugly around the chest, and it holds the bust a little bit that way. Holds, compresses, makes it feel less like it’s gonna bounce all over the place, I guess.

Caroline: And the band is also a major player in the support game. It distributes the weight of the bust. A firm, well-fitted band that’s tight but not uncomfortable is great for support. And together the band and the straps are two anchor points for the fabric to stretch vertically over the bust.

Helen: Yes, and the Banksia Bralette by Muna and Broad uses slings for light support. So the inside of the bralette has two wide strips of knit fabric that start at the shoulders, cross in the centre front, and pass under each half of the bust to give that added support.

Caroline: I always thought this was such a genius design – the slings.

Helen: It’s very cool.

Caroline: Yeah, and cup shaping doesn’t give a lot of support, but it does make a difference in shape. A seam or dart is gonna allow extra volume in the cup so that the bust isn’t compressed quite so much.

Helen: True. This is a good option if you do have a larger bust, but you still wanna wear the bralette style. Looking for something with a bit of cup shaping is probably where you wanna go.

Caroline: Yeah, totally. Okay. We should talk about fabric options cause I feel like fabric is a big factor.

Helen: Yes, and there’s so much to choose from. I mean, most bralettes are designed for knits, so always look at the stretch percentage that your pattern recommends before you shop for fabric. Any good pattern will recommend a range of stretch percentages, and you can check to see if the stretch percentage is listed on the bolt or in the product description of a fabric. And you can also check it yourself really easily if you’re shopping in person. Megan Nielsen has a great tutorial on how to calculate this along with a free printable so you can hold the fabric up and see how much it stretches. We’ll link that up in the show notes.

Caroline: Yeah, and this is so important ‘cause if you pick a knit fabric that has not enough stretch recovery for the pattern or for the style or for your bust shape, then you’re gonna end up with a fabric that, sort of, like, stretches out and doesn’t bounce back. Or you’re gonna end up with something that’s maybe too tight because it doesn’t have the stretch that you need and it just won’t, like, kind of, hug your body the way that you want it to.

Helen: Yeah, exactly. So fabric’s woven with lycra are, also known as elastane, have especially good recovery, so that’s something you can look.

Caroline: Oh, for sure. If you’re not worried too much about support, feel free to go with the softest fabric that matches your stretch percentage. Comfort is one of the main reasons people go for bralette, so don’t compromise it away if that’s what you want. Fabrics made of cellulose, like Tencel and lyocell, rayon, and modal are super soft and comfy. So those are all great choices.

Helen: Yes, and if you wanna level up your bralette and do a little touch of glamour, you can also look for things like stretch velvet.

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: That looks very chic and very cool and can be very comfortable as well because it’s stretchy.

Caroline: Yeah. I think stretch velvet is an interesting choice ‘cause I feel like it’s, it’s, kind of, for show, like I wouldn’t necessarily have a stretch velvet bralette that I wear underneath clothing ‘cause I feel like the nap of the velvet might catch on, on my clothes or make…

Helen: That’s true.

Caroline: …other fabrics, sort of, like, not sit properly. I think it could work in some cases, but I feel like a stretch velvet bra is, like, it’s for fancy time.

Helen: It’s pretty fancy. It definitely can be a little bit sexy.

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: Or if you were planning to wear it as a piece of your look, your outfit, like you’re wearing it under a blazer or under something sheer, for example.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: You can play around with velvet and lace with that, too.

Caroline: Like layered. That would be so cool. Okay. Stretch lace, speaking of, looks amazing on bralettes. If it has a scalloped or decorative edge, you can actually feature that. You can remove the seam allowance on the upper edge of the cup or the centre edge of the triangle on your pattern before you cut the lace out. And if you want more support, you can layer stretch lace over mesh or power mesh. So that mesh or power mesh is gonna give the lace a little bit of extra stability and, um, support.

Helen: Exactly, and mesh is a great way to make your bralette sexy and supportive. You can use regular mesh as long as it has the required stretch percentage. If you want extra support, you can use power mesh on some or all parts of your bralette. Closet Core recommends using power mesh on the back band of their Celine bralette if you want that extra support. This makes sense since a firm band is really key for that support. Um, and then you could go for something stretchier for the cups.

Caroline: Mhm. And not all bralettes are stretchy. For example, the Sweet Sixteen Bralette by Pin-Up Girls uses stretch fabrics for the band, but lines the cups with stable fabric like sheer cup lining. Sheer cup lining is a very strong and stable mesh.

Bra tulle is another option for a non-stretch fabric. It looks similar to mesh, but it has no stretch on the straight grain and very little on the cross grain. It comes in a lot of beautiful colours. It’s not as strong as sheer cup lining, but it can hold its own the vast majority of the time.

And another non-stretch fabric option is Duoplex, which is a smooth, opaque, non-stretch knit made specifically for bras. Have you ever worked with Duoplex, Helen?

Helen: Yeah. It’s such a cool fabric, and I’ve only used it while making a bra, but it, kind of, has an other worldly feel to it. Like, I can’t quite describe it.

Caroline: Yeah, it’s, like, shiny and, kind of, like, synthetic-y, almost nylon-y feeling, but it has the look of a knit, although it’s not very stretchy at all, and it often, I don’t know, it feels a little old fashioned to me as a bra fabric, I guess.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: I think it works in a lot of cases and I, I mean, I’m, I’m definitely not yucking at anyone’s yum. If you love Duoplex, I say go for it ‘cause you wanna be wearing the undergarments that you wanna wear.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: But I feel like it, it evokes a little bit more of, like, um, like, an old school, almost vintage bra vibe to me, something that I might find secondhand in a thrift store, or I don’t know.

Helen: Yeah. Um, the bras that I’ve made, the underwire bras that I’ve made, often use duplex for…

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: …like, the cradle and the front part of the band. And then you have power mesh in the back part of the band.

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: And then you get some sexy lace or something on the cups, so it’s, kind of, hiding down there, but it does offer that super awesome support that you need. So that’s why I think it’s such a popular fabric for bra making ‘cause it just gets the job done.

Caroline: Yeah, I remember we used it in the class that I took when I learned how to make bras, and I learned that you can, sort of, layer lace over top to almost camouflage the Duoplex so the Duoplex acts as that stability and support that you need in a lot of those, um, more structured underwire bra styles. It’s also interesting ‘cause it’s one of the few fabrics out there that really is available in a lot of colours for bra making and seems to be designed, like, specifically for bra making.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: So a lot of the other fabrics that you might use outside of, like, a bra tulle or a sheer cup lining, are fabrics that are sort of multipurpose. You’ll find them and be like, oh, I could use this for a bra, but you could also use it for other things. Whereas, like, a, a Duoplex is just, you know, that’s what it’s for.

Helen: You’re not making an entire shirt out of Duoplex.

Caroline: No.

Helen: I haven’t seen it done. If you’ve done it, please send us pictures.

Caroline: Yes! We want to know about it.

Helen: Yes!

Caroline: And some bralettes have the option to line the cups with bra foam. So this is different from, sew-in bra cups. You buy bra foam by the yard and sew it into the shape you want, according to the pattern. It comes in different thicknesses. For the Jordy Bralette, Emerald Erin recommends 1.6 millimetres, or about one 16th of an inch.

It doesn’t unravel. So when you’re sewing a cup together along a seam, you just butt the ends of the pieces together and zigzag over them. Um, and if you don’t have specific pattern pieces for the foam, you’re gonna wanna remember to trim off that seam allowance because you’re just butting it together and not actually, uh, sewing a seam.

Helen: Yeah, exactly. You don’t wanna add any unnecessary bulk. And don’t be intimidated by the foam component of bralettes because this stuff is actually really easy to sew…

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: …and easy to cut, so you can totally do it. It’s not a big deal.

Caroline: I always found that one of the most satisfying parts of bra making is when you butt the, like, foam cups together, and you sew them, and then, they, all of a sudden, the foam holds its shape so well, so all of a sudden you have a bra cup in front of you.

Helen: Yeah, exactly.

Caroline: And you can, like, put it over your bust and see if it, kind of, fits yet, and it’s, like, it’s, you start seeing things really come together when you work with foam. It’s cool.

Helen: Yeah. There’s so many exciting parts of bra making. I mean, the materials are so fun. You’re working with small pieces so you can, kind of, sit at your machine and just get it done. You don’t have to get up and down a lot. And you get to work with all these fun things. Not a lot of pressing. And just beautiful details. Even if it doesn’t fit, which happens, happens to all of us.

Caroline: Yeah. Yeah.

Helen: That’s part of the bra making journey. You’ve made a beautiful thing and I’ve kept all the bras I’ve made, even the ones that don’t fit.

Caroline: Really? Yeah. They are so special.

Helen: Yeah. They’re just beautiful. They’re nice examples of what is possible in the world of sewing.

Caroline: It’s so true. Yeah.

Helen: Okay. If you’re making a bralette, you’re probably also going to need elastic. If the bra you’re making has an encased elastic band, you’re gonna want non-roll elastic. It’s firm, so it’s gonna give you support, and it won’t roll up into a weird sausage when it’s stretched around your torso. So check that elastic. If when you stretch it, it gets skinnier…

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: …that’s not the elastic for you.

Caroline: Yeah. And another option is wide plush band elastic. This elastic is made to use without a casing. It has a smooth side that faces out and a softer plush side that goes against your skin. You can replace an encased elastic band with wide plush band elastic, that’s a tongue twister, if you’d like. You would just skip the casing, join the elastic into a circle, pin it to your bralette at the quarter points, and then sew it down, and then you’re lapping the wrong side of the elastic over the right side of the bra for a smooth finish there.

Helen: Yeah, this is a really nice alternative, especially if you happen to have this on hand ‘causeI think it’s a little bit faster and it can look quite modern and cool, too.

Caroline: Yeah. I’m thinking also of those, like, sporty bras that have the, like, exposed elastic as the band underneath.

Helen: They usually say the like brand name on them.

Caroline: Yeah. Like branded ones.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: Um, and I think that would also be considered a plush band elastic. It just has, like, a jacquard where you can actually, like, knit a design into it, which I thought was really cool.

Helen: Oh, Caroline, I have a task for you. You can make this happen for us. You need to produce elastic for bras that says like “sewists” or like “badass” or…

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: …I don’t know.

Caroline: I think that’s a great idea. I mean, I’ll talk to Laura, the person who does the sourcing for Blackboard, and she’s probably gonna be like, the minimums are too high.

Helen: What you can’t sell, like, 5,000 yards of bra elastic?

Caroline: That says sewist on it.

Helen: That says sewist on it.

Caroline: Very niche, Helen. It’s very niche

Helen: And you know what? Knowing that, it will, there’ll be a typo, and they’ll think, it’s supposed to say “sexist” ‘cause it’s what happens when you type sewist. It’s a disaster.

Caroline: Sexist. No! The bane of a sewist’s existence is the autocorrect to sexist.

Helen: Right?

Caroline: Just always happens.

Helen: The world is against us.

Caroline: Oh, my gosh. Perfect business idea, Helen. I love it.

Helen: I love it, too. I’m really hopeful. Okay. The other kind of elastic you might encounter is plush back picot elastic. This is a common way to finish the edges of lingerie. We’ve already explained what plush back means, but what about picot? A picot, or picot as it looks like it’s spelled, is the little decorative loop on the edge of the elastic or little bumps along the edge of the elastic. It’s typically only on one side.

When you sew picot elastic on, the plush side is gonna go against your skin, and all that’s visible from the outside of the lingerie is those little bumps along the edge. Now, it can be a little challenging to sew picot elastic so that outer edge isn’t visible. If that’s important to you, we recommend practising on scraps before you sew it to your final piece.

And my best advice is to sew a little closer to the edge of the than you think. You almost want your needle to go, like, in between the little picots.

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: And then that gives you that really beautiful result. I mean, I love picot elastic. It’s so whimsical and fun.

Caroline: Yeah. Me, too. And it’s another one that I feel like once you sew it and do that little flip and top stitch, you feel like a superhero.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: ‘Cause it’s like, how did I make this look so professional and so much like ready to wear lingerie. It’s so cool.

Helen: It’s so beautiful.

Caroline: Yeah. Another common finishing method uses narrow elastic. So, in this case, you sew narrow elastic to the edge on the wrong side, fold it over, and then top stitch. It’s very similar to swimsuit sewing. We recommend braided elastic for these kinds of finishes. It doesn’t narrow when it stretches like knit elastic does.

Helen: Yes, and fold-over elastic is a great way to get a nice clean finish. This elastic is designed to encase the raw edges of the fabric completely. If you want to switch to a fold-over elastic finish, you wanna make sure to remove any seam allowance first. So you’re just, kind of, sandwiching it on the edge and going for it.

Caroline: And the final type of elastic to consider is bra strap elastic. So some bralettes call for this; some don’t. It usually has a shiny side and a plush side. If you’d like to, you can make your own straps from non-stretch fabrics or you could use twill tape to stabilise fold-over elastic for straps that match your other finishes. You have a lot of options for straps. I feel like some patterns might call for, like, a strap out of a stretch fabric even if the strap needs to be a little bit stretchy.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: ‘Cause definitely bra strap elastic has stretch to it and really, really good recovery.

Helen: Yeah, it does. It definitely feels like it’s gonna last forever.

Caroline: Mhm. And it comes in different widths depending on what you need. So, yeah, that’s a definitely pretty essential for bralette sewing.

Helen: And you may need other notions for your bralette, too. If you’re using that bra strap elastic, you’re probably gonna need rings and sliders. Rings are what’s gonna connect your straps to your bra and the sliders, make your bra strap length adjustable. That adjustability factor is really nice because if the elastic stretches out during the day or with wear over time, you can tighten your straps to make it fit again. You wanna make sure that the width of your rings and sliders matches the width of your strap elastic. I definitely wouldn’t sleep on adjustability because…

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: …like I said, it’s unlikely your first bra’s gonna fit you in the first place…

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: …but having any ability to adjust it, like some rings in the back, some hooks and eyes in the back, or some rings to adjust those straps is gonna make it more possible.

Caroline: Yeah. Yeah. I totally agree. And speaking of hooks and eyes, some bralettes have closures and some don’t. If they close in the back, they’re probably gonna have a hook and eye closure. So the eye side has several rows of eyes for adjustability, both throughout the day and throughout the life of the bralette. You can buy these, but you can also make your own. You just need fabric interfacing, a bunch of eyes, a few hooks, and patience. There’s a wonderful unclear tutorial by Mercedes from Series 5 of the Great British Sewing Bee and the Sewcialists, so we’re gonna link it for you in the show notes.

Helen: Yes. And we also found a great tip from Orange Lingerie. They use a hole punch to punch through the markings on the pattern for the hooks and eyes. And then they lay it over their fabric and mark through the pattern so that everything is in exactly the right place. And this is especially important for a closure that you’re doing behind your back ‘cause you’re gonna want them to be in a predictable and aligned position so that it’s easier to, to actually do it up and take it off.

Caroline: Yeah. You don’t want an asymmetrical hook and eye closure.

Helen: I mean, it’s still hard, let’s be honest. I do the, like, do it in front and spin it around my body.

Caroline: Oh, me, too. I could never master the, like, actually hooking it behind my back without seeing what’s happening.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: It doesn’t. I can’t do it. So, yeah. Okay. Speaking of tips we have a bunch of bralette sewing tips for you. So the first one is the seam allowances for lingerie patterns are small, sometimes a quarter of an inch. So, for this reason, do not clip into your fabric at the notches. You wanna be marking them instead. You can use little tailor’s chalk, or you can even do that little method of cutting a little hat instead of cutting into your fabric, you’re cutting like a little triangle outside of where the notch is so that you can still see that marking, um, without using chalk that might rub off.

Helen: And you can switch out the finishes if you want. We’ve talked about a couple of ways to do this already in this episode, but we want to mention one more. You can finish your bralette with fabric bands instead of elastic. This is the ultimate in softness and comfort. It’s how that popular bra and undie company Arq finishes their products. Seamwork has a tutorial for finishing underwear with bands, uh, but it would work for a bralette that has, like, armscyes and necklines as well. And it is, kind of, one of those funny things that when you make your own underwear, there’s a lot of elastic involved.

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: But when you buy underwear, there doesn’t seem to be any elastic in the underwear. And I totally get that the elastic is not comfortable for some folks, so…

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: …doing bands instead is definitely an option. You can totally do that.

Caroline: Yeah. And they have a lot of, like, industrial operations, have special machines just for lingerie, and it’ll be, like, attaching a knit binding or something that attaches the elastic, and it’s not the same as what we have in, like, our home sewing setups. So, I think that’s why a lot of the materials that we use might be different from what you find in ready to wear stores.

Helen: Totally. So if you wanna do the knit band method for the edges, the key is to cut that band about 10% smaller than the edge you’re attaching it to. This is easy enough to do with your phone calculator. Also, when you switch out finishes, you wanna remember to check your seam allowance since you may add or reduce them before you cut things out, um, and start adding bands.

Caroline: Mhm. If your bralette has a very wide elastic band or a long line shape, you may want to grade it down or up towards the waist depending on how your body’s shaped.

Helen: Great tip. I often end up with a little pool of extra fabric at my lower back, and I’ve learned I need to like scoop things out back there.

Caroline: Mm.

Helen: Okay. And sewing curved edges together, which you often have to do on bralette cups, can be a little annoying. Here’s our best tip. You wanna pin along the seam line, instead of along the edge. Because of those curves, the edges will be different lengths, but the seam line is what we’re matching up here. So just take a small bite of the fabric out with your pins. You wanna sew slowly so you can readjust when you need to. In fact, go slowly on all of your bralette and bra sewing. If you could turn down the stitching speed on your machine, now is the time ‘cause these pieces are small, so there’s no rush.

Caroline: Mhm. And bralette fabrics tend to be slinky and stretchy. Those are the kinds of fabrics that tend to get pulled down into the machine, especially when you start sewing. So there are several ways to deal with this. You can put a piece of tissue paper under the start of the seam to stabilise it. The only problem is that if you’re zigzagging, you might have to go back in with tweezers to pull the tissue paper out. Another method is to hold onto both of the thread tails and gently pull them when you start sewing. You can also reinforce the fabric with wash-away interfacing or wonder tape in the first inch or so. So that should help the fabric not get eaten by your machine.

Helen: Yeah. This is when you wanna pull out all the stops and make sure…

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: …that’s not gonna happen. And if you’re sewing jersey knits, of course, you wanna use the appropriate needle, use a ballpoint needle. For delicate fabrics, like bra tulle and netting, you can use a microtex needle. And for things like elastics, you might wanna switch to a stretch needle.

Caroline: Mhm. And the zigzag stitch is super important for sewing lingerie. You can use it to apply elastic, sew stretchy seams, and even do a bar tack to attach straps. The three step zigzag, also called a lingerie stitch, is just a little bit different. It’s three small stitches in one direction, then three stitches in the other direction, in a zigzag pattern. This is a very strong stitch that keeps delicate fabrics from bunching up. The only thing is it’s pretty hard to take out if you make a mistake, so keep that in mind.

Helen: This is true. Bra pattern designer Madalynne uses spray baste on her hook and eye closures. She actually opens them up, sprays the spray baste inside, and then wraps them around the raw edge of the band she’s attaching them to.

Then, she stitches the closures very close to the edge, about an eighth of an inch. The spray baste is really brilliant here because this is a very fiddly part of bra sewing, and it’s hard to pin through such a sturdy piece of, like, such a sturdy notion and have it lie flat. So love the spray basting, or wonder tape, anything to make this easier.

Caroline: Mhm. Yeah. It’s so smart. When you’re sewing the hook part of a hook and eye closure, you wanna make sure the hooks are facing up while you sew, because getting those things caught in your machine would not be fun.

Helen: Very true. And as I’ve mentioned a couple times in this episode already, you’re probably gonna wanna make a muslin. Bralettes are a close fitting garments. The only way to really know if it fits is to make one. You, kind of, have to just use the same fashion fabric to get a true sense of the fit, since stretch can vary so much across different fabrics. So you’re obviously not making your bralette muslin out of cotton muslin. You’re going to have to sacrifice some of those lovely materials, but you can absolutely harvest your straps, sliders, rings, even your elastic from your muslin to use in your final bralette. Or you can even harvest some of those things from old brass you have in your wardrobe to save a little bit.

Um, you wanna make your mulin, try it on, evaluate the fit. It should be comfortable with no spilling or gaping. You know, jump around a little bit. Make sure that you feel comfy. The band should be firm and tight fitting. It shouldn’t squeeze you super hard. You wanna pinch out any roomy parts or let out the seams if it’s too tight, and transfer those changes onto your pattern pieces. Typical full bust adjustments aren’t typical for most bralettes because you’re working with small pieces and negative ease. So Seamwork recommends thinking instead about how your flesh is distributed.

If you have a bottom heavy chest, for example, you may want to shorten the cup. If you have more flesh at the top of your chest, you may want to lengthen the cup for more coverage. Your first attempt at a bra may not work out, and that’s totally okay. Think of it as a marathon.

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: And you are gonna have to make a couple just to, kind of, get going, but that’s okay because you can take what you’ve learned, and you can apply it to your next attempt. And imagine a world in which you have a pattern for a brilliantly fitting bra or bralette that you can just make whenever you need one. Amazing.

Caroline: It is such a fun learning process. And because it’s all small pieces and small amounts of things, things come together quite quickly. And you could sew like a couple bras in a day if you’re really determined. So don’t feel like this is a huge endeavour. I, I think that you can totally, you know, knock out a muslin and then get going on your, on your real thing pretty quickly.

Helen: It’s true, and I think you have a better chance, honestly, of a good fit with a bralette. You might not end up with maybe the support you desire, depending on the style, but stretchy fabrics and things like that are gonna be easier to fit than all of those cut pieces that are involved in making an underwire bra, at least in my experience.

Caroline: Yeah. Totally. Okay, so let’s talk about patterns because there are some great bralette patterns out there and we wanted to go over a selection on today’s show. The first one is one that we’ve already mentioned, the Banksia Bralette by Muna and Broad. It’s a cool tank style option, and this is the one with the hidden slings for support and separation, which I think is just so cool. It’s high coverage, and it looks super comfy.

Helen: Yeah. This is one that you could probably get away with wearing. Well, I mean, any of these you could get away with wearing as tops, but…

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: This would make a cute top for summertime wearing with, like, a high-waisted skirt or something like that.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: The Axis Tank by Sophie Hines is another popular one in the sewing community. I’ve seen so many beautiful versions of this. This is also a tank style, but it has a racerback and options for cool colour blocking. Technically, it is a tank, but it’s very fitted so many people wear it as a bralette. And it’s currently being updated for sizes up to 6X and D and E cups, so watch out for that soon. That’s awesome.

Caroline: Another tank that could work as a bralette is the Dune Tank by Christine Haynes. It’s a close fitting tank finished with knit binding. The spaghetti straps are adjustable, and this could be a really great dupe for the Arq bras that I know you and I love, Helen, just make sure to use a cotton spandex with good recovery.

We actually have a cotton jersey knit at Blackbird that I think would be so perfect for the Dune Tank. And I know that some of the samples, I believe, were made from our cotton modal jersey knit.

Helen: Ooh, nice.

Caroline: So if you click on the link in the show notes and take a look at, uh, the photos, that’s, uh, our Blackbird fabrics in those photos. And I just love these photos, too.

Helen: Love the photo shoot for the Dune Tank and Briefs ‘cause it’s just exactly how I wanna feel…

Caroline: Oh, yeah.

Helen: …on a Sunday.

Caroline: This is what I wanna wear every day.

Helen: Yeah. Seamwork also has several bralette offerings. The Robin Bralette is a fitted soft bra with princess seams, adjustable straps, and a hook and eye closure at the back. The Kaye Bralette is a long line tank style, similar again to those Arq bralettes. Uh, and the Florence bra is a lacy bra that almost looks like an underwire bra.

Caroline: The Celine Bralette by Closet Core is a soft cup triangle bralette with a back closure and adjustable straps. The mesh versions of these are super cute.

Helen: Totally. The Superstar Bra by Waves and Wild has a crossover front and wide straps that cross in the back. This would also be a great lounge bra.

Caroline: And Jalie has a couple of bralettes that we’ve heard about. Jalie 3131 is a bralette that includes a narrow line of reinforcement under the cups for extra support. Plus, it has a nursing option. Jalie 3886 is a simple bralette with darts under the bust and a supportive band. It’s finished with fold over elastic that goes up to become the straps. I also feel like it’s actually “jalie” because I believe they’re a French company.

Helen: Yeah, I pronounce it “jalie,” but I was questioning myself there.

Caroline: Sorry, everyone.

Helen: They have so many options. I mean, this one is really cute, the Julia. I feel like it could be a swimsuit if you sew it in swimwear fabrics.

Caroline: Which one is that? The 3886?

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: Ooh. Yeah. I’m looking at it now. Very cute.

Helen: Yeah, it’s adorable.

Caroline: Yeah. I love when they also come with uh, like, an underwear pattern.

Helen: Yeah.

Caroline: ‘Cause you get two for one.

Helen: Two for one.

Caroline: Also. It’s so fun to, when you’re making a bra or a bralette, just throw in a pair of undies that match.

Helen: Yeah, exactly.

Caroline: Sew them together.

Helen: Chances are you have some fabric left.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: Made for Mermaids has the Lana Bra, which has a two piece cup, a shaped band, and a back closure. They always have so many pictures of customers in such a wide array of body shapes that you can look at. Everyone looks amazing in this bra, and they also have the Bryn Brami. Apparently, a “brami” is a cross between a bra and a camisole, a brami. Bramisole?

Caroline: I’m into it.

Helen: This one has the bra, a cropped cami, and a full-length cami with optional shelf bra. It also has a nursing option, so that’s a lot of bang for your buck there.

Caroline: Oh, my gosh. I love all the photos in this product listing for Made for Mermaids ‘cause you can see it on all different body shapes, which is really cool.

Helen: Yeah, it’s awesome.

Caroline: Okay. The Jordy Bralette by Emerald Erin is so simple and cute. It’s a triangle cup bra with a plush elastic band and adjustable straps. There are options for an all fabric bralette, lace and bra tulle overlay, and foam cups.

Helen: The Lexington Bra by Orange Lingerie offers support with cut and sew foam cups and side boning. The finishing elastic makes a cute crossover at the centre front. Orange Lingerie are known for their bra patterns, so definitely check this one out.

Caroline: And there are a few bralette patterns that were specifically recommended by Sew Busty for sewists with large busts. The Sweet Sixteen Bralette by Pin-Up Girls is a mix of stretch and non-stretch fabrics. It has a two-piece cup and comes in 12 cup sizes.

Helen: The Lotus Bra by Lily Pad Designs is a non-stretch wireless bra with princess seam cups and a sturdy band. It goes up to a size double G.

Caroline: And the Iris Bralette by Primrose Dawn is a stretchy knit bra with a pretty, demi cup shape and lots of style options.

Helen: So, in addition to all these patterns, we’ve named a lot of specialty fabrics and notions in this episode, but we haven’t told you yet where to buy them. So here are some online shops where you can get what you need. Bra Makers Supply, very popular. This one is based in Burlington, Ontario, but they sell online. You can buy so much great stuff. It’s a trusted retailer in the sewing community with a wide array of fabrics and notions.

Caroline: Emerald Erin, past guest, sells beautiful, high quality fabrics, elastics, and notions. Her shop is super well-curated and worth looking at. She’s also based in Canada but ships all over.

Helen: Stonemountain and Daughter usually has good bra making supplies available in their shop.

Caroline: And Tailor Made Shop has gorgeous lingerie fabrics and kits as well as knits and notions, so check that one out as well.

Helen: I love buying a bra kit, honestly, because everything is there, especially if you’re doing a project that involves…

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: …lots of extra notions or a little bit of lace here and there. Just having that all curated is so nice.

Caroline: Yeah, it totally takes the guesswork out, and it’s really fun ‘cause then you get all of the, like, colour pairings done for you, and you just get to be like, I want that one. And…

Helen: Exactly.

Caroline: Then, you have to make it, but…

Helen: Okay. We have one more thing to discuss before we go, and that is the question of whether or not you can take a wired bra pattern and make it into a bralette by basically removing the wires. So Beverly Johnson writes on the Bra Maker Supply blog that you just need to keep a few things in mind when you’re doing this.

Caroline: Yeah, so first, the bra pattern must have a full band. This means that the band goes all the way around, including under the cups. There are some patterns that are partial bra bands. They’re not gonna work without wires.

Helen: And secondly, you’re gonna wanna put the wire channelling on, even though you’re not going to insert the wires. This is because the channelling is sturdy, and it does not stretch, so it gives you a bit of support under the bust and keeps it from spreading at the sides.

You could also use twill tape here in a pinch, but adding that channelling in is, kind of, nice because maybe you wanna add the wires, maybe you try them, maybe you don’t like ’em, maybe you leave them out. I mean, you have options.

Caroline: Yeah, totally. Third, you may want to raise the neckline on the pattern, so the upper part sits on top of your bust instead of part way down.

Helen: Fourth, you wanna stabilise the neckline and underarm for a bit more support.

Caroline: And fifth, consider moving the straps in towards the centre for more support.

Helen: It’s all about that support.

Caroline: Yeah.

Helen: We’ll definitely link Beverly’s article in the show notes. She’s so knowledgeable about how bras give support and about bras in general. So you can check out the Bra Makers Supply blog for more resources as well.

Caroline: Yeah, and finally we wanted to throw it out there that there are so many bikini top patterns that are waiting to be adapted into bralettes. I know I want a Sandpiper bralette.

Helen: Yes! I have made some Sandpiper tank tops, and I wear them a lot ‘cause it’s just such a nice cut on the shoulder.

Caroline: Yes! And if you’re gonna take a bikini top pattern and adapt it into a bralette, you wanna keep in mind that you can change the tie closure, if there’s a tie closure, to hook, to a hook and eye closure, or you can just close that up and make a bralette that you pull over your head. And you can change any finishes according to your preference, but most of the techniques used on bikini tops will work really well for bralettes, too, so it’s a pretty easy switch.

Helen: Yeah, and it’s all a big experiment. You’re working with such small amounts of fabric. I mean, just go for it and see what happens. What have you got to lose?

Caroline: So bralette sewing is actually so quick and satisfying. We’ve already said this today, but I’m gonna say it again. We hope that you’ll give it a try because we love bra making. We love bralettes. We love wearing bralettes and bras, and…

Helen: Yes, I’m feeling inspired ‘cause I absolutely love wearing bralettes, especially the, kind of, knit tank options, and they’re expensive if you buy them…

Caroline: Mhm.

Helen: …um, from, like, a nice place. So I think this is one instance where you can make it for cheaper.

Caroline: And there are so many more patterns available now than there were even five or 10 years ago when I started bra making, so…

Helen: Definitely.

Caroline: …the future of bralettes is bright, Helen.

Helen: That’s it for today’s episode of Love To Sew. You can find me Helen at HelensClosetPatterns.com and Caroline at BlackbirdFabrics.com. And we’re recording in beautiful British Columbia, Canada.

Caroline: Go to LoveToSewPodcast.com to find our show notes. They’re filled with links and pictures from this episode. And if you’d like to get in touch with us, send us an email at hello@LoveToSewPodcast.com.

Helen: If you love Love To Sew and you want more, you can sign up for our Patreon. For just $5 a month, you get a full-length bonus episode and weekly behind-the-scenes pictures. For $10 a month, you get all that plus a mini-episode focused on sewing techniques and 15% off discount codes for Helen’s Closet and Blackbird Fabrics. That, by the way, you can use again and again. Patreon is the best way to support us so we can keep making quality sewing content. Go to patreon.com/LoveToSew for more info.

Caroline: Thank you to our amazing podcast team. Lisa Ruiz is our creative assistant. Jordan Moore is our editor. And Margaret Wakelee is our transcriber. And thank you for listening. We’ll see you next week.

Helen: Buh-bye.

Caroline: Bye.

Ba-ba-bralette.

Helen: Ba-ba-bralette.

Caroline: Bralette.

Helen: Bralette.

 

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