We discuss the history of the zipper, how to choose a zipper for your project, and our best tips for zipper success when sewing!
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- Love to Sew episode mentions:
- Love to Sew Patreon Support Page
- Blackbird Fabrics Workshop Space
- Blackbird Fabrics – Upcoming Workshops
- Blackbird Fabrics – New denim and deadstock!
- Helen’s Closet Patterns Suki Robe – expansion is almost done!
- Caroline’s Suki Robe
Photo credit: onlinefabricstore.net
- There are three main types of zippers:
- Coiled
- Molded
- Metal
Photo credit: DIBY Club
- There are different zipper weights for different projects! Chart source from doitbetteryourself.club
| ZIPPER NUMBER | GENERAL SIZE | GOOD FOR |
|---|---|---|
| 1-4 | small | formal clothing. cushions. handbags. skirts. dresses. pants. |
| 5-7 | medium | jackets. duffel bags. tents. purses. backpacks. luggage. boots. |
| 8-10 | large | industrial clothing. vehicle covers. upholstery. canvas tents. |
- We discussed 5 zipper insertion methods in this episode:
- Centered zipper: sewn an even amount on both sides of the zipper with exposed stitches on the outside of the garment.
Photo Credit: Centered Zipper – Front by Doina Alexei
Photo Credit: Centered Zipper – Back by Doina Alexei
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- Lapped Zippers: sewn with an overlap of fabric covering the zipper on one side. The lapped zipper has one side of exposed stitching on the lapped side.
Photo Credit: Lapped Zipper by Doina Alexei
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- Exposed zipper: sewing a box around a zipper to leave the teeth exposed or sewing the zipper on the right side of the garment so the whole zip is exposed.
Helen’s exposed zipper on her Brumby Skirt!
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- Invisible Zippers: uses a special kind of zipper and they are installed in the seam so no stitching or zipper teeth are visible on the right side of the garment.
Invisible zipper in a skirt by Doina Alexei
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- Fly-front zipper: includes a zipper guard (or shield) that covers the zipper when worn.
Photo credit: Fly front zipper – front by Doina Alexei
Photo credit: Fly front zipper – back by Doina Alexei
- Zipper tools mentioned in this episode:
- Zipper foot
- Invisible zipper foot
- Pliers for shortening the zipper by removing the teeth
- Marking tool
- Pins or clips
- Hand-sewing tools
- Wonder Tape or iron on double-sided stabilizer
- Fabric glue stick
- Zipper shortening tutorials:
- Where to buy zippers:
- Dressew if you are in Vancouver! Or your local fabric shop!
- Online resources:
- Dressew if you are in Vancouver! Or your local fabric shop!
- Sewing patterns mentioned in this episode:
- For further research on zippers, go to:
Podcast: Play in new window | Download | Embed
If you don’t know about https://www.wawak.com then hold on to your hats! They have a great price on YKK and other zippers and just about anything you will need for sewing.
Thanks, Libby! We have heard great things about wawak.com!
Girls, I have to respond after listening to this episode. I’m team Helen on how to shorten zippers. It was hard to even listen to Caroline’s description …. sorry but it’s just wrong to shorten from the top. I just finished listening to The Great British Sewing Bee Season 2, I feel like you let Patrick down… think about it, do it right (that’s from the bottom).
Thanks for your input, Tracy! #teamhelen
Oh my goodness. I didn’t realize how many feelings I have about zippers until I listened to this episode!! But the passion is REAL. First of all – I LOVE zippers. They are my absolute favorite closure. I never baste them, I rarely even pin them, but I never have issues! Give me zippers over a button placket any day!
I agree that shortening zippers from the bottom is the way to go. Sorry Caroline! I am also a somewhat lazy sewist – rather, I prefer the word “efficient” – so I don’t always sew myself a stop at the bottom, I usually just wait until the garment is finished to chop the zipper, and by then the end of the zipper is usually captured in a seam somewhere. The bottom of the zipper is much more likely to end up captured and hidden in the seam allowance, whereas you’ll always end up seeing the top of the zipper whenever you use it, so it’s good to have those top stops to make it look nice.
BUT I don’t think the top stops are what keep your fly from falling open! With metal zippers, the zipper head will lock on any set of teeth, not just the topmost set. As long as the zipper head is folded “down” the lock is engaged, regardless of where in the teeth you end up. Which is good – I’d hate to have a “garment misfortune” (or whatever phrase the old timers used) just because I didn’t zip my fly to the very top.
My favorite zipper source is Zipit zippers on etsy. They sell assorted colors in GOOD colors which is like buying candy. I have a hard time finding 5-6″ zippers for little zipper pouches or zipper pockets in bags, and this is a great source. I always buy YKK! They’ve never failed me and it’s not worth hinging the future of your garment on a cheaper zipper.
Thanks for letting me share my surprisingly numerous feelings about zippers!
Samantha, thank you so much for sharing your thoughts on zippers, and that you are on #teamhelen when it comes to shortening zippers! It seems like Zipit is a fav in the community based on our IG question poll. They have such great zips! 💕
I’m #TeamCaroline AND I personally taught “shorten from the top” TO HELEN during my Couture Hand Sewing Intensive at Camp Workroom Social. While Caroline seems to use this method to be speedy, I use it to be fancy (almost always with a hook & eye or other closure above.) If Caroline is wrong, I don’t wanna be right…